TodFitch

The last ones I played with were such that I could reverse the float arm to make it work the way I wanted.

If you install any number of possible privacy add-ons to your browser you can block a lot of tracking. Not just ad tracking.

Years ago I had a small utility trailer for my bicycle that had a gooseneck to a ball hitch located behind the seat post. I guess the manufacturer of that trailer thought the way you did.

You are correct. . . Just copy the photo and then repost it. Looks like the size limit GTK has in place should impose no hardships. I do hot link, but only from my own site. So I retain control and I don't mind having my server provide the bandwidth for that. Not related to this, but I do mind that some of my articles on my website have been copied verbatim with no credit for their source and now some search engines assume that all copies, including mine, shouldn't be listed as they are plagiarized. Please, if you find and interesting (non-forum) page on the web, give a link to it rather than copy the text verbatim.

Probably better to start a new thread for a different transmission, even if there were some comments about non T-5 transmissions here.

When I purchased my '33 back in '73 the New York paperwork had the engine number. In '74 when I moved to Maryland I asked the clerk at the DMV if they could use the serial number instead. I handed her a scrap of paper where I'd written down the engine, serial and body numbers I had found on the car. She asked me to wait and then disappeared for about 45 minutes. When she came back she said the numbers all matched and there would be no problem having the Maryland paperwork use the serial number. At the time I figured she just took a long coffee break using the research as an excuse. But now I think she might have had someone contact the Chrysler Historical (or what ever the equivalent was back then) and actually checked that the numbers matched. When I moved to California in '78 they accepted the serial number from the Maryland paperwork but did have a fellow at the DMV look at the car to make sure the serial number was actually on the car. For what its worth, I've seen some really, really old copies of California registration forms that had fields for both the engine number and car serial number. So back in the day they might have been tracking both. I am guessing they probably dropped one of those fields and converted the other to VIN when VIN numbers came along losing the correlation between serial and engine numbers.

A want ad in the classified section of this web site might be useful too. And it is free.

A number of people are saying its broken, but my reading of the manual section posted the operation seems normal. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Interesting to read in the manual section posted that the lack of contacts opening and closing (like in the two wire thermostatic setup) means that there is no interference with radio reception. I wonder if that is the reason they dropped the two wire sender setup.

You can use the inline image tag on your posts to simply show an image located on another site. There are some other sites that block that, but in general it works and it doesn't use any of your image storage quota here.

Please copy the photos rather than give links to other sites. I'm very tempted to move all your ". . . on the hamb" photo links to the external site referral area. Especially this one which you have as "for sale on the hamb" which clearly fits the external referral area's intended use.

If the lobes are rounded off then for the same dwell you will have less gap. With less gap, it is more likely that you won't have as clean an opening with respect to arcing and current flow. Which, in turn, will likely reduce your points life and decrease your spark voltage. Reduced spark voltage may result in poor ignition especially during high power operations where the pre-ignition pressure is higher.

I tried washing some car parts in a dishwasher once. Made a real mess of the inside of the dishwasher which took a long time to go away. That is a mistake I'll only make once. Fortunately I was single at the time.

Agree, I've never heard of damping being done in the sender, so if there are no baffles in the tank the sender will be reporting lots of movement. It could be that the damping mechanism in the dash unit is faulty. Or, more likely, the car never came with it and what you are seeing is normal. The two wire systems from the late 30s to 48 are inherently damped as they work on temperature in the dash unit which takes a little time to change. But my earlier car with a one wire sender shows every slosh in the tank. Just don't corner as hard and you'll not notice it as much.

By my GPS, I've had my '33 with its stock 190 cu. in. engine and 4.375 rear end up to 70 MPH. Took a while to get there and couldn't maintain it on a grade. As noted by others for their newer cars, 50 MPH is a lot more comfortable (but I do sit at about 60 MPH or a trifle above if I have to go long distances on a freeway). My last few times traversing the LA metro area (in a modern car) leads me to think that the average speed on a freeway around there is closer to 35 MPH than to 80 MPH. Maybe at 2AM it gets up to 80, but not during the more normal times of the day that I've gone through there.

I'm a little surprised that some place in Australia is diametrically opposite of Michigan. I recall checking and found that a place in the ocean off of Madagascar would be diametrically opposite of Los Angeles.

Off topic, but California extends nearly 1,000 miles north to south. If it were on the east coast it would span from about Connecticut to Georgia. It also has both the lowest elevation in North America and highest elevation in the "lower 48". So while the coastal areas and, to a lesser extent, the "Central Valley" have very pleasant and moderate weather there are parts of the state that really do have very cold winters and/or very hot summers. About the only weather you won't easily find in California is that horribly uncomfortable muggy heat that you might find in, say, Florida.

1. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are the same for the US build L-6 engines for the entire production run, so any pair of intake/exhaust should mount up. But there are variations in manifold part numbers over the years and there is two very visible variations on the exhaust manifold with where the dump is located. I believe the early (maybe only pre-WW2) intake manifolds are setup for a smaller bore carburetor. So manifolds vary. 2. You can post in the classifieds. And you can check the usual vendors for early Mopar parts and you can search eBay, etc. 3. The heat riser spring I got from Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive) fits and works on my '33 L-6 engine.

Might not be so bad. You have the drag of the fan and the generator sapping power and thats about it. Manual transmission is very efficient. The divergence between gross and net got a lot worse with automatic transmissions, air conditioning and much higher demand electrical systems (big enough to support power windows, power seats, fancy sound system, etc.)

I am expecting at least that. FWIW, the company has a 15 year warranty.

Don't know if it is the best in the state, but it seems pretty good from the climate data I've seen. Typical summer high of 76°F, typical winter low of 43°F with 300+ days of sunshine/year. From what I am reading, preparation is key and good prep needs a lot more than a little diluted muriatic acid to etch the surface. So I will definitely be contracting it out rather than doing it myself as I don't want to deal with the learning curve for a one time thing. The company I am considering going with notes that there can be issues with older concrete floors poured before vapor barriers were required. From the information I now have, it seems likely they will have to both grind and treat the concrete to prepare the surface and then apply a sealer to block moisture before doing the actual coating. I haven't yet gotten a firm estimate though.

Probably not much but I prefer to use the top as an inlet and the bottom as an outlet on the heater.

My “solution” is to wait until I can get back to my laptop.

I get between 10,000 and 15,000 miles from a set of points on my '33. And I recall getting about the same from points on the last vehicle I drove prior to getting one with electronic ignition in the early 1980s. I don't know what average miles per year for a car is nowadays but, if I recall correctly, in the 1970s and 80s it used to be about 12,000. So, at least with quality parts (which might not be as available today), going a year on a set of points for a daily driver should not be an issue.

Nope. Just a house originally built in 1953 and remodeled and added to a number of times. Most recent full remodel was two years ago and it looks like everything on the last remodel was permitted so I have hopes that I don't have to spend a lot of effort fixing previous owners’ attempts at improvements. Interesting read on that product. If the concrete was new I'd seriously consider it.

On a cellphone and don't see how to quote. Jeff: Moving to San Clemente. Like the idea of a solid uniform color, not too dark, for ease of finding dropped small parts. Have looked at the garage journal website listed for ideas and information. Thanks!