TodFitch

From Sanger/Fresno I'd probably keep on 152 over Hecker Pass and hit 1 in Watsonville. That would cut out some less than desirable urban freeway and get you to the cooler coastal air faster.

I recently improved the air conditioning in my old Plymouth by simply moving to the beach. So far that has kept the temperature at or below a reasonable 72°F at mid-afternoon. Unfortunately it sounds like it will get up into the mid-80s for record highs early next week.

Not sure how well a weld between a steel pin and pot metal body would work. But you can get a longer pin with grooves cut in it and use "C" clips to assure that it will never accidentally come out. The rebuilding kits I have gotten recently from Antique Auto Parts Cellar have that type of setup on the pins and I believe that Don C was able to get the same type of pin (and maybe the clips too) from a supplier like McMaster-Carr. I would not be surprised if he posts that information in this thread.

The forum has had several major software changes including at least one that did not carry forward the old posts and registrations, but yes this is forum has been around since the 2000 year time frame.

As long as that original paint is still serving its functional purpose to protect the metal under it and thus keep oxidation to an acceptable rate. If not, then either paint it, put the vehicle in a humidity controlled storage container or watch if deteriorate at a fairly rapid rate.

Looks great! I hope your trip is uneventful with respect to weather and mechanical issues.

Aw shucks. And back on topic. Congratulations on getting this squared away. How soon to your first (legal) drive in the new car?

1,200 watts of accessories? Do you have a portable disco club in there or something?

I thought a zinc was something you could wash your hands or dishes in if you lived in Baltimore.

When does he learn “wings” and “bonnet”?

'34 (and '33) engines are basically the same for rebuilding as the later engines, except there is no full length water jacket so as you discovered the block is a little more narrow than the later engines and uses a different head gasket. But as far as internals, the bearings, pistons, etc. are the same as other 201 engines ('33 has different rods and crank as it is only 190cu in). Water pump is different as the inlet to the block is rectangular and there is no water distribution tube behind it. Internals of the pump are the same as later so rebuilding it no big deal. If you want to put a later pump on then you will need to make a custom backing plate to match the block (same mounting stud hole pattern so they will bolt up).

Have you considered placing an ad in the classified section?

"we ran a jumper from the battery to the low tension wire on the coil, she started and ran for a few minutes". . . Sounds like you aren't getting power to the coil but once you apply power to the coil it runs. I would not consider that a coil problem, maybe something wrong with the ignition switch or the wires to and from it?

Congrats on the “new” car. Should I change the thread title to “It is officially on off the trailer”?

Classifieds are where this request must go. Since you are new and may not know that, I am only locking this thread rather than deleting it.

That plate can move with respect to the shaft based on the amount the centrifugal advance weights and springs allow it. There are two advance mechanisms in the distributor: One based on RPM which moves the "stop plate", the other based on vacuum that moves the plate the points are mounted on. Yep.

So, in summary, the car wasn't running and had a suspected ignition problem and the fix was to put in an electronic ignition and the car still won't run? If I have got this straight, then there is a chance that there is some other problem that swapping the method of creating a timed high voltage spark did not cure.

Maybe something like these: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1764

I can't find the reference now, but I recall seeing something that indicated that 1963 was the last year they were called suburbans.

I imagine that places like Faxon Auto Literature would carry the reprints. In the meantime, here is a scan from the '33 DeLuxe Plymouth Instruction Book as I am guessing that the Dodge and Plymouth transmissions are very similar (might even be identical).

I think this is the one that fits '33 through '48 Plymouths. If that is true and they did not change it from the P15 to the P20, then maybe it will work for you. http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7302409/BK_7302409

On the Plymouth side, the '28-'33 Master Parts List has cut-away views of the freewheeling transmission with call outs for all the bits and pieces. I have to assume the Dodge parts book would have that too. Likewise, there is are cut-away illustrations of the transmission in the '33 Plymouth Instruction Book (the one what came with the car) and I have to assume the Dodge would be the same. I haven't checked the Dodge side, but both of the above publications are available as reprints.

You might want to place an ad in the classified section of this web site. I'll leave this thread open so that people can respond with potential vendors. Any direct offers to sell should be by PM (personal message) and not in this thread.

If there is an obstruction on relief port in the master cylinder it could manifest itself on the rear wheels only if the shoes on the rear are adjusted significantly tighter than the front. . . I think I'd look at the master cylinder first. But I also think that if there is any doubt about a hose, I'd replace them all.

Some have claimed that a failing brake hose can cause that, so maybe the hose between the frame and the axle?