TodFitch

I haven't seen a number on the lining thickness. If I recall correctly, one of the Master Tech slide shows on the Imperial site mentions that they made thicker linings for use with drums that had been turned. But I've not seen anything that listed the original or thicker dimensions.

Might want to check the length of the push rod that goes between the pedal and the master cylinder. If it is adjusted wrong all the brakes will lock up.

Regarding low pedal, you mention new lines all around but it is not clear to me if you have replaced/relined the shoes or replaced or turned the drums. My experience is that if the arc of the brake shoe lining surface does not match the arc of the drum you will never get a good adjustment and without a good adjustment you pedal will be low.

Whoever rebuilt your generator should have tested it. And if they tested it, it should be polarized already. Maybe they polarized it in reverse of what you need, but if it were me I'd just bolt it on and see if it works. If not then I'd worry about polarizing it.

My references, at least as I typed them into the tables used by my serial number lookup page show it to be a Detroit built 1947 Dodge D24: Serial Number 30822246 Found in range 30799738 to 31011765 Serial 22509 of 212028 Year 1947 Make Dodge Model Name DeLuxe or Custom Model Code D24 Plant Detroit

A '40 Plymouth? I think that would be a 201 engine rather than a 218.

I spoke to a local fellow who once needed to get his old car towed a couple hundred miles and hand only the 100 mile coverage. Turns out all he did was get a 100 mile tow toward home. At the end of the tow after he was unloaded and the tow truck left, he called AAA again and got another 100 mile tow for the rest of the trip home. I think you get more than one tow per year and all he did was use up a bit more of his yearly quota. Long way of saying, I'd probably drive the car. Chances are you are good to go. If not and something goes wrong, then have AAA tow you to a U-Haul place and get your truck and trailer.

I have rigged a 6+ to 12- inverter/converter under the dash that can supply about 2 amps. I use that to the few modern accessories that I need/want in my old car.

Please move this transaction negotiation via PM. I left the original as the only price was shipping but really the whole thing should be in the classified area.

You are new here, so you may not be aware of the rule about posting buy/sell items in the regular forum. Please use the free classified ad area. This thread will be deleted after you have a chance to do that.

There are lock nuts on the tappet adjustment on the '33 engine. Sounds like they changed that part of the design sometime between 1933 and 1939. Seems like it would be easier to adjust the valves if lock nuts were not used and some sort of self-locking thread was used. Could do it with two wrenches as shown in Don's photo. On mine I need to hold the adjustment with two while locking with a third wrench.

For my edification, are there lock nuts on the adjustments? From this discussion I have the feeling that maybe the tappets and adjustment screws where changed between when my car was built and this one.

Could also mark it as best answer.

Most of the images I've seen for various year Mopar Lockheed brakes show the short shoes in back. I think it might be one of those differences between self-energizing Bendix style brakes and Lockheed brakes.

It might be easier to get your original one rebuilt. I have had a reasonable experience with: http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com When I last had a water pump professionally rebuilt, Arthur himself was doing it. I understand that it is his son running the business now but so far it seems people who use them have posted favorable responses.

You can inspect the cam lobes when the oil pan is removed.

Don't know how you have your belt setup nor do I know if you still have a water pump with bushings instead of ball or roller bearings. But I know that on my old Plymouth if the belt is tight my water pump bushings wear out very rapidly. This might be a case where your fix for one issue (belt slipping on power steering pump) could lead to another problem (short life on water pump). OTOH, maybe your water pump and/or belt routing is such that it is not an issue on your car.

Lumens (light output) per watt (power in) is much higher for LEDs than incandescent. However LEDs can be very directional in their light output and the spectrum emitted can be an issue. So sometimes an incandescent bulb may be a better choice, at least at the moment. LEDs lights are under rapid development and color rendering (emitted light spectrum) is getting better all the time and new ways are being developed to make the light intensity more uniform so the number of applications where incandescents are better than LEDs is shrinking all the time. Typical high power LEDs actually need about 3v DC to operate, so anything that is developed for a 12v system could, in theory, be applied to a 6v system. The issue there being lack of volume to induce a manufacturer to make a product.

Bypass neck? On Plymouth the first year for a bypass type thermostat was 1934 and that was on the DeLuxe (PE) model only. Did Dodge get that earlier?

I think that would be the same as for my '33 Plymouth (part 612048), see: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group7#612048

I did not search very hard but the only ones I found with amperage ratings seemed to be for 12v systems. I replaced all the wiring when refurbishing the car and don't worry about having a battery shut off switch. And even if I wanted one I am not sure how to mount it, getting to the battery which is located under the seat is not something I want to do every time I park the car.

I had the reflectors for my bulb and reflector headlights done by Uvira back in the 1980s when they did it all (now they want them to come prepped with the nickel plating). They still look good now. I recall it was a bit of a splurge for my way back when but don't recall the pricing then and haven't seen any recent pricing. I documented my experiences at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/lightsand the last contact information I had for Uvira is: Uvira, Inc. 310 Pleasant Valley Rd. Merlin, OR 97532 Telephone: +1.541.956.6880 Fax: +1.541.476.9096 email: uvira@terragon.com I think they do things for either the medical or aerospace industry and the side business in headlight reflector finishing is only because the owner, Bill Atwood, is an old car buff.

A bad cut-out section in the regulator could cause that issue, not the generator itself.

You might want to check your odometer. . . If the tire size and/or rear end ratio are different than built then both the odometer and speedometer should be off by the same amount. If the odometer is correct then the speedo could just be miscalibrated.

Nickel is not really a good reflector coating for headlights. For converting bullseye headlights I thought the usual method was to use a modern reflector with the H4 mounting and attaching the old lens. If you do that then you have a modern reflector. If you want to reuse an old reflector then you should check out Uvira. You put nickel plating on then send the reflectors to them and they put a vapor deposited aluminum layer followed by glass. This makes a good reflector that will not degrade with time.