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My Project Cars



Found 10 results

  1. I have an issue of sputtering/hesitation and what feels like "running out of gas" every time I make a right turn. When I bought the car it would backfire several times and was a little difficult to drive. Once I had the Carburetor rebuilt, it drove significantly better. I was delighted that the fuel issue was eliminated after the rebuild, or so I thought. About the 5th to 7th time driving it, I began to notice sputtering and hesitation on right turns. I tried to duplicate the problem on left handed turns but had no success. However when it comes to right turns, its like clockwork. Last night, while driving straight, pulling away from a traffic light, it backfired badly and blew the muffler out. I'm assuming this is a fuel issue and the best thing is to take it back to the gentleman that rebuilt the carburetor. However, prior to doing so, I wanted to obtain more information and educate myself a little from the all the experienced folks within this forum. Things like incorrect float adjustment, something vibrating loose, poorly tightened screws, etc. or am I way off?
  2. My mechanical fuel pump has an integrated fuel filter, but some flatheads have a filter attached to the carburetor inlet. Since the fuel pump has a filter already, is the carb filter really necessary or is it just extra insurance? Integrated Fuel Filter Carburetor Fuel Filter
  3. The front end of my gas tank has a fitting screwed into it having a barb on the outlet end and a 5/16 inch single flare on the end that screws into the tank. To me, the barb implies that a rubber gas line to the carb was used at some point. Is that correct? Also, I'd rather not use plastic or rubber fuel line nor this barbed/single flare fitting. Instead I think it would be much better to install 5/16 inch CuNi brake line and use a double flare fitting to screw into the tank. Does this sound like a good way to go? Will a new double-flared line make a good seal with the gas tank which was apparently built using a single flare fitting inside the tank? Any suggestions about the best and safest way to get gas from the tank to the carburetor are welcome at this point. Fitting Tank Internal Fitting
  4. Can some one tell me what size fuel line I need to run from the fuel pump to the gas tank. Also what size compression nuts I need so that I can flare the ends and connect the new line with the pump and new tank. Thanks. 1948 plymouth deluxe
  5. Hey all, I just replaced my fuel tank in my 48 D 24 Custom. I went to install my new sending unit and my new unit is a 2 pole sender and my original is a 1 pole. Any ideas on where I can get the 1 pole? It looks like in mid 48 they changed to a single pole design. My car is still 6 volt positive ground. I did some research and found only one reference from 2010 on the forum. Thanks
  6. I have been attending the same car show for a number of years now and always saw this '53 Plymouth two door hardtop there with this piece connected to the fuel line going to the carburetor (see attached photo). It is connected to a tee fitting . Today I was able to meet the owner and learn the mystery piece's function. He said it is some type of fuel shutoff that can be used as an anti-theft device. He said that his aunt bought the car new and must have had it installed at one time. There is a steel tube that runs from the piece before the carb and connects to a valve the is located on the dashboard. There is a slot for a key that is there and apparently cuts off the fuel supply when turned on. He said he has never used it but figures that the car runs fine so why fool with it. I fully agree. In all the years that I have been working on cars and going to shows, I have never seen one of these devices. John
  7. Not Plymouth related, but hoping the genious collective here might be able to shed some insight on a fuel system issue... My son Ben bought his first car last fall, a '61 Studebaker Lark. The car is in great shape, but the previous owner wasn't what I'd call "mechanically inclined"... The car has a fuel system issue, where it will run fine for 10-15 minutes, and then run out of fuel. After it sits for 1/2 hour or so, it will start up and run fine again, until the cycle repeats. Doesn't matter if it is hot or cold. I did some searching on the Studebaker forum, and found that the previous owner had the exact same problem and posted about it in 2007, apparently it was never resolved. The engine is an OHV So, to date, we have removed the fuel tank and cleaned it out (it wasn't overly dirty), the pickup tube in the tank is clear, new fuel lines and filters. We have removed and cleaned the carb twice (the second time just to be sure there wan't a blockage somewhere). Also, replaced the coil and condenser, the points look new. The gas cap is a vented type, be we even tried running the car without the cap to be sure. Here's what is going through my mind... getting nowhere fast. The carb is still clean from the thorough cleaning we gave it this spring. There are no obstructions in any of the ports, jets, or float valve. No screens or other areas that could have been plugged. The float needle looks good, and doesn't seem to be sticking. I decided to check out the fuel pump while I was at it. The pump doesn't look like it has many miles on it, and the diaphram is good. It pumps just fine, no obvious visible issues. No restrictions in the fittings or valves. I did find one oddity though... The upper portion of the pump had 4-5 tablespoons of engine oil inside, and it was leaking out of the weep hole on the side of the pump casting... It looks like there is maybe a bad seal on the diaphram shaft in the top of the pump, I don't think oil should get into the pump body. I'm wondering if this could be an issue pumping the fuel, if it gets a bunch of oil in there it might restrict the pumps ability to move fuel. If the oil leaks out the weep hole, then it would start over again... Thoughts? I have now been through the entire fuel system from tank to carb, and can't find any issues, other than a section of hard line that is 1/4" diameter, which I think should be 5/6" and the oil in the pump body. Planning to replace the fuel pump, as soon as funds allow, and installing a 5/16" fuel line from tank to carb. Any other thoughts on what could be the problem? Pete
  8. I will be mounting a electric fuel pump as part of my 12V conversion, mostly because after I added Fenton-type cast iron headers they are extremely close to the mechanical pump and fuel lines. Anyone out there have any experience with electric fuel pumps on one of our trucks? I'm looking at one from Car Quest that pumps at 4-7 lbs. I'll be running a Stromberg two barrel on a factory manifold, 230 bored 60 over with a mild cam. Should be OK, right?
  9. 47' Plymouth Special Deluxe Will be a lot of trouble mounting a Ford 9" rear end? The leaf spring mount is welded to the axle. If I cut the leaf spring bracket off the existing axle. Measure, etc and attach it to the new one will i run into any issues? ALSO, the shocks on the rear axle are mounted at a 45 degree angle. Why is that? Is that accomplishing anything? I know there are a lot of things I'd have to tweak. But looking for an overall guess on it? Another question. I have a custom 15 gallon universal gas tank installed. There is a hose and what appears to be a vent that attaches above the axle to the underside of the body. Every time I fill it up all the way it leaks like nothing I ain't ever seen before. If i fill it up just about halfway I have no issues. Ideas?
  10. Anybody have a part number or source for the correct fuel filter? Mine has the filter bowl as part of the pump (see pic). The filter pictured in here has since fallen apart. None of the stores around here can get me a filter that fits right. Thanks much! - JT.
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