Jump to content

Merle Coggins

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9,371

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    86

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Merle Coggins
    Interesting observation. I noticed this summer that my Westach is no longer accurate and I wondered if it was due to the different signal from the Pertronix. I contacted Westach about it and they stated that several of their customers run their tach’s with Pertronix. I was going to drop my points distributor back in and test it again for verification but I hadn’t got around to it yet.
  2. Merle Coggins
    Interesting... A ‘49 truck 4 speed would likely be the spur gear type without any synchros. It must have taken a lot of effort to shoehorn that into a car chassis, for what you’d get out of it. Especially since the car bell housing would likely have to have been modified to allow it to bolt up.
  3. Merle Coggins
    That looks like a truck transmission. I’d suspect that you’ll need to do some fabrication, even if you could find a replacement tunnel hump.
  4. Merle Coggins
    Well, the light duty trucks have the chassis serial number stamped into the frame, on the left front side, between the front spring mount and the shock mount. I found mine where the red arrow is pointing. Note the shinier spot on the frame... Maybe the medium duty trucks have the stamping in a different spot???
  5. Merle Coggins
    There should be more to that number on the frame. Try sanding lightly before and after those 4 digits and see if there is more. The chassis serial number should be there, and that is what is needed for identification.
  6. Merle Coggins
    A pulse in the brake pedal, when brakes are applied, is usually due to a warped brake disc or drum. If the drum is out of round the shoe will follow the concentric circle causing the pulse/oscillation feel.
  7. Merle Coggins
    I don’t know what type of bell housing they used in that tug, but in the cars and trucks, with FD, you need to remove the trans from the bell housing first. Then you can remove the clutch from the FD, then the FD form the crank. There will be 8 nuts to remove on the block side of the crank flange. It’s probably best to pull the engine with the bell housing attached, then swap things over to the replacement engine before installation. If you are unable to turn the crankshaft then you won’t be able to get the FD unit off the crank without removal of the bell housing. And if this is the case you will probably need to drive the 2 locating dowel pins back into the bell housing, and out of the engine block. They are located just above the lower bell housing bolts at the back of the block. With the pins pushed back, and the engine out of the vehicle, you can lift the bell housing up and over the top of the flywheel/Fluid Drive unit. This would then provide some access to the upper nuts on the crank flange.
  8. Merle Coggins
    Yes, the divider is attached to the glass and is the moving type, as mentioned above.
  9. Merle Coggins
    I think some glass shops may use a urethane glass setting caulk instead of the tape, but I can’t confirm that.
  10. Merle Coggins
    7/16 X 20 would be an SAE Boss thread, 1/4” ( - 4 ) size. So it would appear that you need an SAE - 4 male X 1/4” Inverted flare female fitting. Happy hunting.
  11. Merle Coggins
    The "sweeper" channel is held in place with some clips. Pull the old one out and reuse the clips. The glass is set in place to the framework with glass setting tape. It's a rubber tape that wraps the edge of the glass and is pressed into the frame. Lots of soapy water helps get it set. I struggled with my vent window glass and finally gave it all to the glass company and had them do it.
  12. Merle Coggins
    I'm curious to see how you mounted another master cylinder in tandem to the original one, seeing as how the steering column passes right in front of the stock M/C.
  13. Merle Coggins
    Yup, that's a common rust spot on these trucks. Most I have seen, that have been "restored" won't have rivets in that spot anymore. When I did my truck I drilled out the rivets, repaired the rust spot on the fender, and added another plate in between like what was there originally, and welded it all together. I then drilled through the original rivet holes and put carriage bolts in there. After sanding the heads smooth of any markings it looks like the original rivets again.
  14. Merle Coggins
    Must be so nice to be able to have 17 year old vehicles that aren't a rotting carcass or body cancer (rust).
  15. Merle Coggins
    Have you checked with Roberts Motor Parts, or Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts? At the top of this page you will find a "Links Directory". In there you can find several links to various vendors, including these 2.
  16. Merle Coggins
    Look again Paul. I don't believe you gutted the existing M/C and ran through it on your truck. I believe you confusing your different projects. Tyler, if you use the search function of the forum this has been discussed a few times. I remember someone finding a M/C that fits with little modification. I just don't recall the application.
  17. Merle Coggins
    I don't know how you are reading it. I thought it was pretty clever, and funny.
  18. Merle Coggins
    I always knew you had a screw loose somewhere... ??
  19. Merle Coggins
    dpollo, I agree with you. Most vintage bypass filters I see on these engines have the drain/return port at the bottom and are fed from the upper side. However, I also know that mine is clearly marked IN at the bottom port, and OUT at the upper port on the side. It is a filter from the Deluxe Filter Company of LaPort, IN., and it uses the "JC" sock type element. This was marketed as the Heavy Duty filter from Dodge Trucks. Any of the other cartridge type element types I've seen flow from outside-in. Any pleated paper filter element needs to flow this direction as the pleats are more open around the outside, providing more surface area for the filter media. You have reminded me of an issue with a failed bypass filter that I experienced early on in my career. I was working on a Cummins V12 (1710) with bad turbos. The turbos failed from lack of oil pressure. Upon further inspection I found the oil pump suction screen packed full of what looked like shredded cotton. This engine had a pair of Luber Finer bypass filters, along with the spin-on full flow filters. I found that one of the Luber Finer filter elements had split open and spilled its guts through the return port and into the oil pan. What a mess. Now that I think about it, I have to wonder if it had been plumbed backwards. I didn't know any better at the time to investigate that. Now I'll never know...
  20. Merle Coggins
    Is the filter element sealed against the center tube? That type of filter element should be. Then you would be correct in your statement that the oil coming in from the upper connection point would fill the outside area of the filter element, flow through the filter media into the center. The center tube will have at least one hole for that oil to go through and it will then exit the bottom port. Did you get any pictures of the inside when you had the cover off? It may be worth the effort to thruroughly clean in inspect the inside of the canister and replace the filter element so that you can get a clear picture of how it functions internally.
  21. Merle Coggins
    If it's that stuck you may have to do what I did with my engine. There was no way it would turn over, no matter how long of a lever I could have put on it. The cylinder bores were too rusted up. I flipped the engine over and pulled the crankshaft out of the bottom. Then with a large block of hardwood, and a BFH (Big F..... Hammer) I drove the pistons down slightly, then wire wheeled the cylinder bores to clean them up. Then I could use my block of wood from the bottom and drive them up and out. I also found that all of the valves were seized into the guides. After rocking the cam back and forth, with a large Channel Lock pliers, I was able to get them all fully open. Then I could pull out the cam and tappets and drive the valves out with a long punch from the bottom side. But I was able to salvage the block with a trip to the machine shop, and it runs good to this day.
  22. Merle Coggins
    I wouldn't necessarily condemn the filter as being plumbed backwards without knowing exactly how it should be plumbed. Some have the inlet on the bottom and filter from inside-out, with the outlet being near the top-outside of the canister. Others feed in from the outside and filter from the outside-in and return out the bottom center. If there are markings on the canister for IN and OUT that would determine exactly how it should be plumbed. Otherwise the cartridge type inside would also determine that. The pleated paper filter cartridge will typically filter from outside-in, whereas the sock type would filter inside-out. (according to the filters I have seen anyway)
  23. Merle Coggins
    When I first built my truck I used some Peterson trailer tail lights that I picked up at my local Farm & Fleet store for around $6 each. The both had the license plate illumination lens in them. I blacked out the one on the right side. They looked very similar to your Grote lights. They looked good and served the purpose for several years. I finally took the plunge and purchased the reproduction tail lights from DCM Classics. I wasn't all that pleased with the design of the lamp socket. It seemed a bit cheap and didn't seal out the elements well. After a little modification I mounted them and have been using them since. Now I have a more 'vintage' look with the "DODGE" script on the lenses.
  24. Merle Coggins
    I've done 70-75 "all day long" in my truck, and 80 to pass, with 3.73 gears. Most recently during our trip down to Chattanooga, TN for the WPC Club meet.
  25. Merle Coggins
    I would use a little Ultra Black silicone sealant in the corners, where all the gasket pieces meet. Otherwise I don’t like silicone gasket sealant, especially with cork gaskets. I like to use a tacky type of gasket stuff, like Permetex’s #9 Tack and Seal on one side to hold it from moving around. Then s light coat of grease on the side against the block. Don’t over torque the bolts. Just snug them up, and go back after a while and recheck them.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use