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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Merle Coggins
    I thought the 1 ton trucks didn't have a vacuum advance. But it would certainly affect things if it does, and it's faulty. Also, check your throttle linkage. Be sure that it goes to full throttle when the pedal is pressed all the way down.
  2. Merle Coggins
    The regulator limits the voltage output as well as the current output. What Jan posted from the W-series trucks is good info. You can also see the B-Series version for comparison. The DEPTCA site has a copy of a B3 shop manual in the Pilots Knowledge section. Here is a link to the Electrical Section of that manual. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/B4_manual/B-4_electrical.pdf You'll need a good volt meter and a good ammeter that can be wired into the circuit at the regulator. Then you can properly diagnose and adjust the regulator. They explain it quite well in the shop manual.
  3. Merle Coggins
    I would think that if you can find bolts with the proper diameter and length shank, as Don mentioned, then you could probably make them into a clipped head bolt with a grinder. Then you'll have to drop the pan and rear main bearing cap to replace them. If I were to go through all of this trouble, I'd be replacing all 4 of them.
  4. Merle Coggins
    That’s normal if the battery needs to be recharged. Does the amperage go down after running it a bit, or if the battery is fully charged?
  5. Merle Coggins
    There would be 2 coils of wire inside the ignition coil. One is energized by the ignition circuit and creates a magnetic field, which then collapses when the points open. When the magnetic field grows and collapses it will induce an electric current in the adjacent coil of wire, which is directed out to your spark plugs.
  6. Merle Coggins
    This reminds me of my Dad’s saying... “It aint going to the fair”... Ed brings up a good point. How does your tail gate fit with that 5/8” taper? Which end is wider?
  7. Merle Coggins
    Couldn’t you just cut the necessary taper into the inner edge of the outer boards so that their inner edges are parallel? Then the inner 3 boards would all set in straight with straight shovel strips.
  8. Merle Coggins
    I’ve pulled many a seal with sheet metal screws through the metal flange area. Some with a slide hammer tool, and some by gripping the screw with Vice Grips and prying against the pliers. Or tapping on the plier with a hammer.
  9. Merle Coggins
    Likely need to replace the pinion seal. May also need a Speedi-Sleeve on the pinion flange. I would also suggest to clean/inspect the axle breather. If it’s plugged up there will be a pressure buildup inside the axle housing that exaggerates a seal leak.
  10. Merle Coggins
    3 speed transmissions in Dodge trucks have synchros since at least the 40's, and with the introduction of the column shift 3 speed in 1950 they certainly would be synchronized. (at least in 2nd and 3rd) It was the 4 speed trans that remained a spur gear type up through '50-'51. The B3 trucks were the first to get a synchro 4 speed.
  11. Merle Coggins
    Yes, these trucks weren't built for high speed. But also keep in mind that your tire diameter plays a factor in overall RPM vs. Speed. Your "F" trucks have taller tires than our light duty trucks, so higher numerical gear ratio is used to adjust for that. Although something in the high 4's or low 5's would probably offer you better cruising speed, if that's what you are after.
  12. Merle Coggins
    The trucks used Fluid Drive with the column shift 3 speed and the floor shift 4 speed from ‘50-‘53. Also in ‘53 the FD was offered with the semi-auto trans, but then it would have a Truck-O-Matic badge on the hood. Tim and Don offered quick tests to know if you have FD without crawling under the truck. However, either way you should not need to double clutch your column shift 3 speed. If you do, then the synchronizers in your trans are bad.
  13. Merle Coggins
    There’s no need for a pedal stop like that. The pedal should rest against the floor. If your wish to lessen the noise, a thinner piece of rubber against the bottom of the floor could be used. Also, the hole in your floor has been cut open quite a lot. It should be just slightly wider than your pedal arm.
  14. Merle Coggins
    No part numbers Rob? Although they probably wouldn’t do anyone any good these days. Also, the B1 wouldn’t use a cable, but I know that you know that too. ? Too bad they didn’t list the length on the other 4 cables...
  15. Merle Coggins
    How clean is the block? Could there be some rust scale in the tube opening? I believe I had to tap lightly on mine to get it into place. It just had to reshape itself a bit to fit into the block.
  16. Merle Coggins
    College students that don't know the significance of 9/11? ? Just goes to show the state our education system... The Pearl Harbor attack happened 26 years before I was born, but I'm still very aware of the significance of Dec 7th, 1941, thanks to the education that I received.
  17. Merle Coggins
    Max PSI is for Max load. Unless you are using your truck as it was used "back in the day" you could run with a lower pressure and improve the ride quality. Bring the pressure down until you see the tire start to squat a bit, then add 5 lbs.
  18. Merle Coggins
  19. Merle Coggins
    I have to wonder what the acid did to the contacts inside the switch, and inside the circuit breaker.
  20. Merle Coggins
    Contact the folks at Then and Now Automotive, (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) and get a fuel pump rebuild kit. Their kits are inexpensive, fairly easy to install, made for modern fuels, and their tech support is top notch. http://www.then-now-auto.com/antique-auto-parts/
  21. Merle Coggins
    It's sort of complicated... The clutch and brake pedals are listed with bushing, and the bushing isn't listed separately, unless it's a Fluid Drive truck, Truck-O-Matic, or larger truck. Those have a different clutch pedal and linkage system and list the bushing separately, for some reason. And there are several different part numbers depending on model year and size class. Does DCM reference an OEM P/N? The first column designates series number (1-4), or a - indicates all series. The next columns are size class, B, C, D, etc.
  22. Merle Coggins
    You could possibly try putting a little heat into the head around the base of the valve, but either way it’ll probably take a fair amount of torque to break it loose. Have you drained the coolant form the block and removed that hose first?
  23. Merle Coggins
    3/8-24 as I recall
  24. Merle Coggins
    Interesting observation. I noticed this summer that my Westach is no longer accurate and I wondered if it was due to the different signal from the Pertronix. I contacted Westach about it and they stated that several of their customers run their tach’s with Pertronix. I was going to drop my points distributor back in and test it again for verification but I hadn’t got around to it yet.
  25. Merle Coggins
    Interesting... A ‘49 truck 4 speed would likely be the spur gear type without any synchros. It must have taken a lot of effort to shoehorn that into a car chassis, for what you’d get out of it. Especially since the car bell housing would likely have to have been modified to allow it to bolt up.
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