Merle Coggins

Looks like jute

You have that right. The wood is attached to the cross members. The bed sides are attached to the wood. And 3 of the 4 cross members get bolted down to the frame with long bolts through wood and metal.

I don't see the washers under the clips. Did you put them on the back side? I usually soak the felt washers in oil when I reassemble them to keep the pins lubed up.

I've had one of those for many years. They are quite handy at times.

????? Undercarriage inspection station?

Greg, Your current wiring bypasses the ammeter, which isn't a big deal, but I tend to use the ammeter to check that my brake light switch is working. After having a few failed switches I will often check that my switch is working before starting up my truck. With the key off I will step on the brake pedal. If the ammeter needle moves towards the negative side I know that I am sending current to the lights. No ammeter movements means it's time to dig out my spare switch...

I have determined that the next time I have to drain the coolant I will be putting one of those in. I suppose I should get one to have on hand when that day comes... Here’s one on Amazon Dorman 61106 HELP! Radiator Drain Cock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5CBD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_AfMNDbM2RFFF1 Well, it seems that the Dorman one has some pretty poor reviews that the wing tends to come loose from the stem after one use, making it useless. Napa also lists one... Weatherhead brand. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_6783?partTypeName=Brass+Fitting+Drain+and+Drain+Cock&keywordInput=drain+cock And O’Rielly also lists a Gates brand on their web site. It doesn’t appear that the stores stock the, but they can get the ordered in.

Yup, like they said... Here’s a photo for your reference.

Lantern flies? Is that the same as Fire Flies, or Lightening Bugs?

I ran across this video recently. I know it’s too late for you on this one, but may be useful in the future.

Lookin’ good. On the sticky throttle, I like to use some dry lube spray and spray it liberally on all of the pivot points of the throttle. Pay special attention to where the cross-over link runs behind the block, where the rod runs through the bracket. When these get dry and rusty they cause a bit of drag on the linkage movement. Some also add an additional spring, but I find that if I keep things lubed up one spring is fine.

That dent in the driver's side door is custom made too...

20 psi at idle isn't bad, with hot oil. Cold oil will usually net around 40-50 psi at idle and possibly slightly higher at higher RPM. If you have 0 at idle and while cruising when warmed up you have a problem. You could have a oil pressure relief valve stuck open. This is located along the lower block skirt near your oil dip stick tube.

I did find some pics of my doors before disassembly, showing the original cardboard door card installation. I got my interior from Quiet Ride Solutions. https://www.quietride.com/index.html I've been very happy with it since completion. It is made from ABS plastic that can be painted, with the proper paint. I went through some struggles during the install process that I have documented on this forum. I didn't use the push button fasteners with the new one, just new stainless screws with trim washers.

My engine usually doesn't get over 180-190ish, unless I''m on a long hard uphill climb. But with that constant load at very low RPM there wasn't enough air flow from the fan to keep up with the cooling demand. Removing the load and raising the RPM, to increase air flow, brought the temp back down.

I've never had an issue with my FD in those conditions, but then again there's no temp gauge in there so I have no idea how hot it was getting. However, this summer I got caught in a major traffic jam up in St Ignace, MI and after a half hour, or so, of stop and go (creeping ahead) my engine started running hot. I had to use the clutch and elevate the RPM to get more air flow through the radiator and cool it down. That's the first time I've had that issue.

??? Where was there an offer for part for sale, or a request?

Never mind...

Already done.

Yes, and yes... I’d be happy to take it off your hands, but this kind of talk if frowned upon on these pages...

Those are for B-Series trucks, ‘48-‘52. I think the B-4’s used a different one.

I probably still have a box full of them somewhere. The smallest box you can purchase is 500 pieces. You won’t need anywhere near that many.

If it indeed has a 2.93 gear ratio that isn’t the problem with your speed. 2.93 gears would run at 80 MPH all day long without pushing the engine to high RPM. It would, however, be cause for sluggish acceleration. If 50 MPH is the limit due to limited engine power then it would make sense. I’ve heard that Jeep Cherokee axles are a good fit for those trucks. And I think that some Grand Cherokee’s have the 5” lug pattern. Although, if you did the Rusty Hope brake conversion you have 4-1/2” pattern up front. Look for something in the mid 3’s.

The longer stroke is achieved by a longer crank throw, which often times requires a shorter connecting rod. An engine with a longer stroke can make more torque.

I still upload them to my Photobucket. I finally upgraded my account so they don’t limit my photo posts. I tried a photo resizing app on my iPhone but it was difficult to use and I didn’t like it. Maybe there are others that are better, but I quit looking. Merle