Merle Coggins

??? Where was there an offer for part for sale, or a request?

Never mind...

Already done.

Yes, and yes... I’d be happy to take it off your hands, but this kind of talk if frowned upon on these pages...

Those are for B-Series trucks, ‘48-‘52. I think the B-4’s used a different one.

I probably still have a box full of them somewhere. The smallest box you can purchase is 500 pieces. You won’t need anywhere near that many.

If it indeed has a 2.93 gear ratio that isn’t the problem with your speed. 2.93 gears would run at 80 MPH all day long without pushing the engine to high RPM. It would, however, be cause for sluggish acceleration. If 50 MPH is the limit due to limited engine power then it would make sense. I’ve heard that Jeep Cherokee axles are a good fit for those trucks. And I think that some Grand Cherokee’s have the 5” lug pattern. Although, if you did the Rusty Hope brake conversion you have 4-1/2” pattern up front. Look for something in the mid 3’s.

The longer stroke is achieved by a longer crank throw, which often times requires a shorter connecting rod. An engine with a longer stroke can make more torque.

I still upload them to my Photobucket. I finally upgraded my account so they don’t limit my photo posts. I tried a photo resizing app on my iPhone but it was difficult to use and I didn’t like it. Maybe there are others that are better, but I quit looking. Merle

That's a great idea. I've got a couple of those tread depth gauges laying around. When #6 intake starts to open, and lifts the gauge, line up your TDC mark on the pulley and your distributor rotor should be pointing at #1 plug wire.

A t-shirt I bought a few years ago...

An inch or so below the frame will likely be OK. Don't the engine oil pan, steering linkage, and exhaust pipe sit lower than that?

That may be designed to be the fresh, filtered, air inlet into the crankcase to replace the air scavenged out by the PCV system. It's possible that you are drawing air back up through that hose, along with oil vapor. Could your air filter be getting plugged?

What’s the condition of the exhaust pipe downstream of the manifold?

Yeah... what he said... ?

Why are you taking up 2 parking spaces? Afraid to get your "patina" scratched? That kind of move is usually reserved for Jack@$$'s, and you don't strike me as one of those...

3/4 ton dually? Never seen one of those. I thought only the 1 ton's offered dual wheels. Also, 3/4 ton trucks do have rear shocks. Or at least mine does. It also has the helper springs, but they don't do anything as I don't load it down enough for them to touch the frame brackets.

"Specified" diameter is often times considerably different than actual rolling diameter. To be most accurate you'll need to measure your loaded radius, from the center of the axle to the ground. Even if I plug in 29.7", allowing for a 1/2" squat of the tire, I get 65 MPH at 3000 RPM. If your engine is in good condition this isn't an unreasonable RPM. I run mine down the highway at 3000-3500 RPM all the time without any issues. It'll sound louder than you are used to on any modern vehicle, but it won't harm your engine. Keep in mind your fixed fan makes most of the noise you hear. No clutch fan, or electric fan, to reduce fan noise as in your daily driver.

Since you have the manifolds off you may want to take the time to separate them. Usually when there is an exhaust leak it will be black around the area where it was leaking. Is there any black around the junction where the two manifolds are bolted together? That is also a possible source for leakage. Merle

I’ve had severely out of adjustment brakes take a pump to get a firm pedal. First pump gets the shoes out to the drum, residual pressure valve holds them close long enough to ‘get another bite’, second pump applies the brakes.

Use thread sealant, aka pipe dope, on the stud threads when you put them back in.

What size tires are on the rear? Measure from the center of the rear axle to the ground to find the loaded tire radius, then double it for effective diameter. Then use that with a gear ratio/speed calculator such as this one on Tod Fitch’s web site. https://www.ply33.com/Misc/speed It doesn’t matter if it’s a 3 speed or 4 speed. Top gear is always direct drive, 1:1, unless it’s a more modern OD 4 speed like an A833.

When I disassembled my engine it was rusted tight. I ended up removing the crankshaft with the FD still attached because I couldn't access all of the nuts without being able to bar it over. After the crank was out I wire brushed the crud in the upper cylinders and oiled things up. I used a block of wood and a BFH to drive the pistons down slightly, cleaned more of the cylinder bore, then used another wood block from the bottom to drive them up and out. Then on to the valves, which were also rusted tight. My LARGE Channel Lock pliers could grip the cam sprocket and I worked it back and forth a little at a time until I had all valves in their fully open position. Then I could remove the came and tappets. Hammered the valves back closed (they were all getting replaced anyway) to remove the springs. I then had to use a long punch and drive the valves out from the bottom up. The machine shop bored/honed the cylinders 0.030" over, shaved the block deck and head, replaced all of the valve guides and valve seats (they were pretty rusty and pitted too), and fit the wrist pin bushings into the connecting rods. They also supplies me with new pistons and rings. All for around $700. I'll never find a deal that good again. That was 13 years ago. He's retired, and his shop is closed, now.

You drove 4000 miles. My 600 miles was nothing... Good to see you again Brother.

More likely a grain chute