Dunkin

Thanks Rick. I have a 5 bolt set up on my rig. Looking at the first first photo, it looks as though I could use a 7.5 on the front. The single vs. dual confuses me a bit though. I would hate for it not to work, so I think I am just gonna go with 8.25's all the way around as I know those are good on my rig. Roman

Howdy, I have somewhat of an understanding how to measure the width of a wheel (without mounted tire) by measuring from where the bead of the tire goes from one side to the other. My issue is that the wheels on my 2 ton Dodge don't conform to the same shape as wheels I am accustomed to. I wanted to ensure that my wheels are 7". I know 8.25x20 will work as they are on the truck all the way around, but I wanted to ensure that 7.5x20 would work on the drive wheels. Is it safe to say that if 8.25's are on my drive wheels currently, 7.5 would work for sure? Thanks, Roman

Thanks Robert. I looked at the record and it doesn't show neither of the codes you speak of unfortunately.

Howdy, I am looking to replace all six tires on my 1947 - WHA48 two ton Dodge with new ones and I wanted to know if anyone thought that instead of installing 8.25x20 all the way around I might look at installing 7.25's on my steer axle. I have my build out sheet which seems to show 8.25's all the way around, although it reads 7" below the tire size. Thanks, Roman 1947 WHA48

Installed the MC per your recommended part number and my truck now stops on a dime. Gonna have the old one sleeved and rebuilt as a spare. Now on to installing new 8.25x20's. Thanks!

Here's a couple of photos. It doesn't seem pitted at all, so even though I have a new one ready to install, I think I will rebuild this one as a spare. Roman

I plan to take it apart this weekend and take a look inside. I will post a few pics here afterwards. The MC on Rockauto is 1.25", so I will look to see if they have a larger one. Just glancing at the webpage, I can't find any Dodge truck with a 251cid engine which is what I have in my 2 ton. I'll keep searching though. Thanks for the knowledge, it's much appreciated.

Howdy folks, I'm in search of the part number for my 1947 WHA-48 2 ton Dodge truck, but I cannot seem to find it online or in the service manual. Would anyone be able to pass along a part number as I want to make certain I buy the correct rebuild kit or master cylinder? I need to replace as the fluid leaks out and the brake pedal goes to the floor. Thanks, Roman 1947 WHA-48 Dodge truck

Howdy, I am looking to replace the original split ring 20" wheels on my truck since finding new 8.25x20 tires is virtually impossible the past few years. I measured my wheels and it seems that they are 5 on 8.25" and they seem to be 5.5" in width. Would anyone be able to confirm that this is accurate on my 2 ton truck? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Warm regards, Roman 1947 - WHA 48 truck

Now that the weather is set to cool some in the inferno I live in, I will get back to this project. Interesting that before sending off my gauges to be rebuilt there was no resistor installed and the fuel gauge worked properly.

I went the "used" route in replacing my 8.25 x 20 tires and regret it. They are better than what I had, but they still have lots of cracks. I wish I would have used the money I spent on the "used" tires to just buy new ones since they will last me a lifetime with as little as I use my truck. New tires are expensive and getting more expensive by the month it seems, so I plan to buy 2 at a time as my budget allows until I get all 6 for my 2 ton Dodge. Too bad there isn't another tire that converts over to use in these split ring wheels.

Thanks Dodgeb4ya, great info. I will check it out. Could there not be a crack in the line somewhere? Would it make sense to go through the valve on the firewall?

"....the backside removable plug."? Are you saying there is a plug on the rear axle shifter diaphragm? Sorry, maybe I am not understanding.

Here's what my vacuum valve looks like. Interesting enough, I have had a rough running engine for years and just didn't do much about it. Well, I finally decided this past weekend to get to the bottom of it and to make a long story short, it was a faulty coil wire that zapped many HP's from my engine the past 4 years. This truck now moves and I gave the high gear a try today and I couldn't get it to disengage. I would assume that with an engine running properly with good vacuum, the rear end is good to go. I would still like to break down the valve and clean it though. I was also thinking about rebuilding the canister that sits on the rear end. I remember a few years ago a diaphram for this unit for sale and I hopefully will be able to once again find it. I'll have to look for a check valve.

I don't believe that is how my truck is set up. I know there is vacuum mechanism on the firewall that goes back to the rear end, but I have yet to find out if this may be the culprit and whether is can somehow be repaired/rebuilt.