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About Dunkin

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    Advanced Member

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  • My Project Cars
    1947 Dodge 2 ton WHA - 48


  • Location
    Central Valley CA
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  1. I only remember the spring on the bottom of the gauge, so I will need take it apart again to check. At one point the gauge did read E, so I must have done something while tinkering with it.
  2. So I took the Dodge to the gas station to fill her up. Took 14 gallons and when I started her up it read "Full"....yes!! Then as I pulled out of the gas station I looked down and it read just past 1/2 full. WTH? The 3rd photo is with the truck off. Any ideas where to go from here?
  3. The shop manual you sent along with other information got me going down the right path since I am now at least getting a reading. I know that when I took it apart to send in to clean and calibrate all 3 posts were used, so when told to only use 2 I scratched my head. It now reads 1/2 full which I believe is about right. I am going to fill her up this weekend and see what it does. The only concern is that when I shut the truck off, the gauge moves up a bit above 1/2 full. If I reverse the 2 wires from the sending unit and shut the truck off, then the unit reads super full. I would assume
  4. Hey Chrysler1941, Would you be able to tell me if my gauge should read empty when sitting in the palm of my hand with no wires connected to it? I've been messing with this gauge for months and I thought it always read empty, but noticed recently that it reads over 3/4's full. I might just be losing my mind since I've been looking at this thing way too long🤪
  5. Thanks for sending this, it's very informative. Me and my friends were not 100% sure how these worked, so this helps. We are impressed with whomever came up with this over 70 years ago. I am not well versed with electrical components, so forgive me if this is a dumb question...in looking at the shop manual regarding this gauge, is testing/calibrating based on the truck being positive ground?
  6. Hello Jerry, Since I removed my gauge I decided to retest it. The needle without power sits around 3/4's full on the gauge. I hooked up 6V to the IGN terminal and grounded terminal #1 which moved the needle slowly to the completely full reading. I then grounded terminal #2 and this time the needle also moved to the full reading by it moved very rapidly. Any ideas?
  7. This is the original fuel sender that was in the truck when I bought it 10 years ago. I can purchase a 2 post sender on Ebay if need be, but I've been advised that I can simply just use the "ignition" and "#2" post leaving post #1 empty. I will do some research on the electronic converter you speak of.
  8. Are implying that the reducer is not needed? My fuel gauge worked perfectly without the reducer prior to rebuilding the gauge and rewiring my truck.
  9. I took my gauge out to make it easier to work on. I am cleaning contacts and cleaning the contact areas where the screws bolt up to the panel since I was told it needed to have a good clean ground. Ignition goes to the voltage reducer which goes to my 12 ignition wire. The voltage reducer is also grounded. The #2 post goes to the sending unit and the 2nd wire from the sending unit is grounded. Weird thing is that this gauge worked before without the reducer and had both sending unit wires attached to it....I've tried going that route again, but nothing.
  10. Sorry, I probably used the wrong term. What I used was what DCM recommended which is a LE-102 12 volt to 6 volt Voltage Reducer.
  11. I tried this simple test and all the gauge did was twitch a bit, but regardless of terminal neither showed "full". Might need to find another fuel gauge on Ebay or something to see if by chance that is my issue. Would be nice to have an extra one anyhow.
  12. Hi Jerry, Probably a dumb question, but other than using a 6V battery is there another method to test the gauge? I don't have a 6V battery handy. Can I use the reducer/resistor that drops current 12V to 6V and ground one of the other 2 terminals to see if that moves the needle?
  13. I might go this route since I can't seem to get the new one to fix the issue regardless of my wiring configuration. Thanks for the suggestion.
  14. I have not. I will take another look at the old unit, but it seemed to be one piece to where you couldn't open it up.
  15. Thanks for the response Jerry. I have tried running the ground wire to the gauge and that did not work either. That is how it was set up originally or at least originally when I purchased the truck 10 years ago. As for the sending unit, I purchased it from DCM, so I will need to look and see if the number you mention crosses with the unit I bought.
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