Merle Coggins

My truck originally came from Iowa and it was titled with the Chassis Serial Number, although there was a typo in it. They had an S in place of a 5. It's still that way as Wisconsin wasn't interested in correcting it.

I do have a Dropbox account and have used that to transfer files to colleagues. I started with the free account but quickly exceeded my minimum storage space, so I upgraded to a paid account with much larger file space. I have also used We Transfer many times with great success. https://wetransfer.com/ This is a free service for files up to 2GB. Just enter the email address of the person you wish to send the file to, upload your file, add a message to the recipient, and click Transfer. The recipient will receive an email with a link to download the file. Easy Peasy... I believe you can also create your own link and send it in a personal email, or copy it to a forum post, if you wish to do it that way.

The links worked for me on my phone...

Or in this instance, for Paul's picture... An Interesting photo opportunity I have run across...

I completely agree when it comes to vintage equipment, and documentation. However, in the modern day the electronic formats can be updated whenever a change is made in machine design, or when errors are discovered in the service, or parts, information. Our information is updated weekly so we always have the latest and greatest information. That’s not possible with printed formats.

In my daily job all of our parts and service manuals are in a digital format, albeit in a much easier to navigate/search format than PDF scans. I have become quite used to using the computer to research service information. Then when I find the section I need I'll print it out to have on hand in the shop. When they get greasy or oily, or blow away in the wind, I just go print out another set. We still have printed manuals for many of our machine models, but most just collect dust on the shelf now. Pretty much all of our Tech's use the computer version now.

I found an original B2 series Shop Manual many years ago, when I was building my truck. It has served me very well over the years. However, before I found that (on ebay if I remember correctly) I purchased CD versions of the Shop Manual and Parts Catalog. I found the scan quality isn't the best, which kept the file sizes manageable but makes for poor quality pictures. None the less I have saved those files to my computer for reference when I'm at the desk and don't have access to my printed book. I also have them saved in my Dropbox so that I can access them with my iPad too. I have also found a couple of cases of missing pages in the parts catalog CD version. Possibly the pages were missing from the book they scanned, or they stuck together going through the page feeder of their scanner.

I agree with the clutch slippage theory, but it also sounds like you have a failed seal in your FD unit. Once you get oil on the clutch disc it will slip, and won't necessarily smell. When I built my truck I got solvent on my clutch disc when cleaning everything. I brake cleaned it and hoped for the best. All was good for 2 or 3 years, then I would notice slippage in 4th gear when under a load. The slippage continued to get worse throughout the summer. That winter I pulled the clutch and FD unit. I had my clutch, and clutch disc, rebuilt by Fort Wayne Clutch. I also pulled the driven plate from the FD unit and had it surfaced by a local shop. (the same shop I took the clutch to, and they sent it out to Fort Wayne Clutch for rebuild). After reassembly it's been slip free to this day...

I see 6. Maybe 7?

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm

Paint chip charts for Dodge Trucks... http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm

That's not how to properly park a car???

Maybe someone filled the FD unit on the bench before installation??? Either way check it again when it's fully cooled down and let it drain down to the proper level. The air pocket it to allow for oil expansion when hot. There is no pressure sensing involved in the FD coupler.

Does the Ammeter needle move at all, + or -, when electrical loads are applied? May be time to break out the volt meter and do some testing. Do you have 6 volts at the BATT terminal of the voltage regulator? Are you getting any voltage output from the generator when running?

Pics?

Tim, was this you as an electronics Tech? ?

A B3B wouldn’t have wheel studs unless someone converted the hubs, or a different axle is installed. More info is needed...

I had one rusted in pretty tight once. Used a mallet and tapped on the vac advance unit a bit until I got it to rotate. (Light taps to keep from damaging the vac advance) Then kept working it back and forth until it loosened up enough to come out.

Maybe you need to get some ice tea from Long Island... ?

Here is the complete installation instructions for the 1362P6 kit. It specifies a 1.5 ohm coil. I am using their 40011 Flamethrower coil and their 706190 universal 6 cyl. plug wires to be sure everything is matched. It’s all available through their web site and on Amazon. Now I’m starting to wonder if I should have used their 40111 epoxy filled coil as the installation on these vehicles has it somewhat upside down. I seem to remember reading recently that they recommend the epoxy filled one if it’s not mounted upright to avoid possible oil leakage. I haven’t had any issues with that, but may consider that upgrade one day. Merle pertronix 1362p6.pdf

1362P6 is the P/N for the 6 volt positive ground kit for an IAT-4011 distributor. This is what is in my B2C truck. Verify the number on your distributor tag before ordering a kit from Pertronix. If you have a different distributor number I would advise giving them a call to verify which kit you need. I was looking at their web site yesterday and couldn’t find my distributor number in their online search function. But if I searched by the kit part number that I used it came up.

We are getting a little off topic of the OP's quest for information to switch back to points. To 50 B2C, I'm curious why you wish to switch back to points. Does it not start and run well? You state that the previous owner converted to 12 volt Pertronix, which would lead me to believe the truck has been converted to 12 volt negative ground. As such, were all of the necessary precautions taken with the Pertronix conversion? And keep in mind, if you switch back to points you will need to add a ballast resistor to the ignition circuit to protect your coil and points if you now have a 12 volt system.

At the top of their installation instructions they are pretty clear about what is needed to NOT damage the module. I followed that advice and used their recommended coil and plug wires. No issues to date...

When I put Pertronix into my distributor I had to make a minor modification to the points plate to accommodate the ignition module. This means I can't go back to points in this one. I don't recall the exact modification but it involved removal of a certain mount point for the points. Because of this I went shopping on "The Old Dodge Parts Home Shopping Network", aka Ebay, and found a distributor with the same model number as mine for a good price. I modified this distributor, after confirming that it was in good condition, and kept my original with points as a "backup".

I was thinking along those same lines...