Merle Coggins

Maybe someone filled the FD unit on the bench before installation??? Either way check it again when it's fully cooled down and let it drain down to the proper level. The air pocket it to allow for oil expansion when hot. There is no pressure sensing involved in the FD coupler.

Does the Ammeter needle move at all, + or -, when electrical loads are applied? May be time to break out the volt meter and do some testing. Do you have 6 volts at the BATT terminal of the voltage regulator? Are you getting any voltage output from the generator when running?

Pics?

Tim, was this you as an electronics Tech? ?

A B3B wouldn’t have wheel studs unless someone converted the hubs, or a different axle is installed. More info is needed...

I had one rusted in pretty tight once. Used a mallet and tapped on the vac advance unit a bit until I got it to rotate. (Light taps to keep from damaging the vac advance) Then kept working it back and forth until it loosened up enough to come out.

Maybe you need to get some ice tea from Long Island... ?

Here is the complete installation instructions for the 1362P6 kit. It specifies a 1.5 ohm coil. I am using their 40011 Flamethrower coil and their 706190 universal 6 cyl. plug wires to be sure everything is matched. It’s all available through their web site and on Amazon. Now I’m starting to wonder if I should have used their 40111 epoxy filled coil as the installation on these vehicles has it somewhat upside down. I seem to remember reading recently that they recommend the epoxy filled one if it’s not mounted upright to avoid possible oil leakage. I haven’t had any issues with that, but may consider that upgrade one day. Merle pertronix 1362p6.pdf

1362P6 is the P/N for the 6 volt positive ground kit for an IAT-4011 distributor. This is what is in my B2C truck. Verify the number on your distributor tag before ordering a kit from Pertronix. If you have a different distributor number I would advise giving them a call to verify which kit you need. I was looking at their web site yesterday and couldn’t find my distributor number in their online search function. But if I searched by the kit part number that I used it came up.

We are getting a little off topic of the OP's quest for information to switch back to points. To 50 B2C, I'm curious why you wish to switch back to points. Does it not start and run well? You state that the previous owner converted to 12 volt Pertronix, which would lead me to believe the truck has been converted to 12 volt negative ground. As such, were all of the necessary precautions taken with the Pertronix conversion? And keep in mind, if you switch back to points you will need to add a ballast resistor to the ignition circuit to protect your coil and points if you now have a 12 volt system.

At the top of their installation instructions they are pretty clear about what is needed to NOT damage the module. I followed that advice and used their recommended coil and plug wires. No issues to date...

When I put Pertronix into my distributor I had to make a minor modification to the points plate to accommodate the ignition module. This means I can't go back to points in this one. I don't recall the exact modification but it involved removal of a certain mount point for the points. Because of this I went shopping on "The Old Dodge Parts Home Shopping Network", aka Ebay, and found a distributor with the same model number as mine for a good price. I modified this distributor, after confirming that it was in good condition, and kept my original with points as a "backup".

I was thinking along those same lines...

From what I can see you have the correct orientation. Have you tried to slip the seal over the pinion flange/drive yolk to be sure it fits properly? How was the first seal damaged? I would certainly lube up the new seal before installing the drive yolk. Also, when driving the seal into the housing be careful that the spring doesn't pop out from behind the rubber lip. That would also make the seal not seal properly against the yolk.

I got to thinking... (not always a good thing ?) Brake drums for 3/4 ton Pilot-House trucks can be difficult to find which got me thinking, "do any of the cars of that era use the same 11" brakes and possibly the same drum?" The 1/2 ton trucks have 10" X 2" brakes up front and 11" X 2" brakes on the rear axle, and they use hubs with wheel bolts with 5 X 4-1/2" pattern like the Plymouth's use. The 3/4 ton trucks have 11" X 2" front and rear and use hubs with wheel studs and 5 X 5" pattern. Do any of the cars, presumably the heavy long wheel base versions, use 11" brakes with 5 X 5" bolt pattern? If so this may give us 3/4 ton truck owners another source for brake drums when needed. Also, if anyone has a master parts catalog, or a cross reference guide, are there any matches to my part numbers? The truck parts book shows all 4 brake drums to be the same. P/N 1188218 The front hubs are P/N 923063 The rear hubs are P/N 1194136 No rivets are listed for 3/4 ton trucks. Apparently the studs retain the drum to the hub. Stud P/N's (10 each) are 593978 for the Left side, and 593979 for the Right side.

I could see them just fine from here in Wisconsin. The must not have the proper ID to cross the border. Now I see them twice...

I've been at Stage 3 for about 12 years now. There always seems to be something to tinker with, when time allows... ?

This is actually a good plan for anyone, regardless of health conditions. Especially those with limited shop space and technical ability. Good plan.

Low compression on that cylinder that has been improving with more run time and a ticking valve... sounds like a sticky valve, hence the valve guide cleaning mentioned by Tim. If it is sticking and not returning fast enough, or not closing fully, that could cause your noise. Once you get the covers off you could crank over the engine and watch the valve movement to see how it returns. Although at manual cranking speeds it may be able to close, but at running speeds it may lag behind. Spray some lube/solvent up on the stem and let it work up into the guide as the engine cranks over. Since you could run the engine as it sits now (hopefully not long without coolant flow) you could spray down the valve stem/guide while running to see if it frees up.

Yes, you will need a puller to remove the pulley. Be careful not to run the puller bolts to deep into the pulley. There's not much room behind it and you can end up driving the bolts into the seal area. Place a board under the front of the oil pan and jack up the engine so you can remove the front mount. Since you'll have the water pump off you can then just remove the front cover. Keep in mind you will disturb the oil pan gasket where it seals against the bottom of the front cover. You may need to replace the front section of oil pan gasket at minimum. However, before I tore all that apart I might verify that the noise isn't coming from the fuel pump.

Since that cross member unbolts and comes out, you could remove it for the modifications. Then you could install the trans without the cross member in place, with some support under as needed, and test fit things as you modify.

Looks like I’ll be gassing up the Ol’ Dodge for another road trip... Just returned from a 1000+ mile road trip to the WPC Meet and Woodward Dream Cruise. Another 600+ mile weekend is nothing... If it’s an evening shin-dig We’ll have plenty of time to make the 5 hour ride on Saturday. Just need to secure some lodging.

Come to think of it, I have seen ‘53’s done up in maroon and grey. This one was at Mopars in the Park in ‘09. (Got your back, Brent. ? )

Oops... Sorry. Try it again.

When there is an open circuit (not a completed circuit to ground) there won’t be any current flow. Without current flow the resistor won’t drop the voltage. Hence you have the same voltage readings at both ends. When you add another load (ie. the coil) to the circuit and current flows you will be able to measure the voltage drops across both loads. Or you would need to measure the resistance value, in Ohms, and calculate the voltage drop(s) using Ohms Law. Voltage = Amperage X Resistance (V = I x R)