Merle Coggins

A W-series would probably be a ‘47 or earlier. By ‘49 we were 2 years into the B-series. Anyway, check out Then and Now Automotive. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ They have very good quality rebuild kits for fuel pumps of all types. It will be more cost effective, and better quality once it’s done (in my opinion).

You could look at your manifolds and see which mounting points are thicker... Or maybe this picture will help.

Ha! ? Here in NE Wisconsin 1” means I might need to take a few minutes to get out the shovel and scrape the driveway clear. Otherwise it’s business as usual.

Couldn’t see anything through the snow... ?

From my memory, and the photo from Los_Control, I believe it’s 1/4” NPT

Also make sure to change the air in your tires from Summer air to Winter air to avoid flat tires in the cold weather. ?

Most likely a Nova front clip

I had a similar issue several years back. I couldn't hold my truck against the FD at idle without the engine dying. If I turned the idle up high enough it wouldn't die, but it was hard to drive that way. After a good tune-up, including a carburetor adjustment, it now runs much better and I can use the FD as it was designed.

The distributor body completes the ground for the ignition circuit into the block by contact.. If you had the key on, with the coil connected to the points, it’s quite possible that your spark came from that electricity looking for a path to ground. This would tell you that you have a good electrical circuit. With the distributor installed will you get a spark at the points if you open and close them manually?

The linkage only lifts the plunger up. The spring pushes it back down to inject fuel. If the spring can’t push the plunger down it’s either too short or too weak. In a pinch I’ve stretched springs a bit to gain more length, which seems to get the job done. Of course a proper fix would be to replace it with a proper spring. But sometimes you gotta do what it takes to get ‘er running. Also, if you’re idle adjustment screws aren’t set properly it may not run in idle position. Try giving a little throttle when you try to start it. On my first start-up I found that I had to crack the throttle to get it running. Then I could fiddle with the idle screw, and idle mixture screw until it idles nicely.

Don’t plug the port. I would recommend checking the water pump to see if it’s open behind where that port would connect, and if it is drill a hole in the backing plate to connect the bypass back into the water pump. Or replace it with a proper pump. AND, install a proper thermostat to get your cooling system working as designed.

You may have a plugged pump passage or nozzle. Time to take it back apart and clean out all of the passages. That one in particular can be difficult. Gasket surfaces can be cleaned up, and trued, with a sheet of fine sand paper on a flat surface. Rub the gasket surface across the sand paper like a lapping block. A little solvent for lubrication helps too.

And the only one facing south in a northbound row.

If you don’t have a thermostat installed then there is no need for a bypass circuit. However, operating without a thermostat isn’t good for your engine. It’ll take longer to get to operating temperature and may not cool as efficiently as it should when it does get hot. Here’s another thread regarding this bypass circuit and water pumps.

If you can adjust the play to within tolerance on the bench what leads you to believe the gears are shot? Have you inspected/replaced your tie rod ends, drag link ends, king pins, etc? You'll never get it as tight as a modern vehicle, but should be fairly good with good steering components.

If you have pieces of rubber in your cooling system you may have a hose deteriorating and coming apart. May be time to remove, inspect, and/or replace your hoses. Or, could it be pieces of silicone sealant from someone getting too generous with RTV silicone on a gasket?

That hole isn't very deep. It connects to another port that goes forward into your water pump. This allows a small amount of coolant flow within the head to bypass the thermostat and return to the pump to ensure enough coolant flow to avoid hot spots during the warm-up process. It also ensures that the hotter coolant finds its way up to the thermostat so that it will open when needed.

It's deceiving because the "before" picture looks like a round combustion chamber. But it's more likely just a round soot build up on the flat surface of the head. Once it's milled and clean it looks like the chamber shrunk by more than it actually did.

Could you use train yourself to shoot left handed? Although, as a lefty I have found that many rifles are not lefty friendly. Bolt actions certainly are not. And some semi-autos will eject shells right in front of your nose. But there are some out there that work left handed just fine.

I purchased one like that on Amazon this summer to test and it wouldn't work. I even tried it on my lawn mower and it wouldn't work with that either. I contacted the seller and explained the situation. It was quite obvious that the package had been opened prior to being shipped to me. He asked if I wanted a refund or a replacement unit. As I still wanted to try one I agreed to a replacement unit. He sent me a return authorization through Amazon and I shipped it back. About a week later I had a refund, no replacement unit. I may try another one next summer, but I gave up on it for now.

I still have the 2 wires for the tach connected to the 2 terminals of my coil. The same way it was connected with a points distributor. I've even tried swapping them to reverse the polarity for the tach but I don't remember the outcome of that test.

Polsonator2, I've been struggling with this as well. I even contacted Westach and Pertronix about it. Westach has no idea why it wouldn't work. Pertronix has some "fixes" for certain electronic inaccuracy issues, but none of them seem to apply to how the Pertronix is wired up. I've tried some different resistors and such in the system to alter the signal but it only seems to make it worse. What I have discovered, on a recent trip, is that although it seems to be off at lower RPM's I believe it's fairly close at road speeds. I took note of my speeds at different tach readings and plugged them into a gear ratio calculator. I even got an accurate loaded radius measurement of my rear tires for a more accurate diameter number for the calculators. When I plug my numbers in it comes out pretty close to what I was seeing on the road. So I have come to the conclusion that it's accurate enough for me at this time.

Could also be a faulty voltage regulator that's not disconnecting the circuit breaker contacts. This will drain a battery through the generator when not running.

Can they safety check it, and sign off on it, without a drivers side door?

If it's the original flat head 6 engine it came from the factory with hardened valve seats. If work was done and the seats were replaced with other hardened ones there's nothing special you need to do. It should run fine on any pump gas available in your town. I tend to run mid-grade or premium in my truck as I feel it runs slightly better. But it still runs just fine on regular old 87 unleaded with 10% ethanol. However, I would caution you about running 10% ethanol fuel if you don't have a fuel pump and hoses that have modern rubber in them. It will kill older rubber components. If in doubt get a fuel pump rebuild kit from the good folks at Antique Auto Parts Cellar. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/