Bbdakota

The increase in cu. In. By it self should have a small hp gain but it would be so small you wouldn't feel it in the seat of the pants. You are probably close but it wouldn't be a 1:1 or a linear scale. As Chrysler 1941 stated, there will be a compression ratio change but to confirm the CR change, you'd also need to figure in the difference in head gaskets from the old gasket to the new and if the head was milled, even enough to clean it up. Then you'd need to figure in the new piston compression height if it's different from the old pistons.

I'd suspect a vaccum leak based on your description of symptoms but it also could be other things. Could be a intake manifold gasket if it's a vacuum leak, like sniper stated, could be the tune.... If your fuel pump was putting out enough pressure to leak past the needle and seat, it would flood out and not idle so I doubt that's your problem.

You're not running the plug wires in the wrong rotation on the cap, are you? I believe it's clockwise for these flathead 6s. I'm only guessing at things that might cause what you are describing.

Only a car nut like myself would do a engine swap on a model car! LOL!

Awesome! Young man has a bright future. As long as he takes advantage of his opportunities. I make that last statement in an attempt to keep his feet on the ground. Good luck!

It's not the same as my 56 royal but I'm not sure about a 55. Mine has a bellow type booster above the master cylinder and a vacuum tank mounted on the inter fender

Well, cruisin the coast is next week! AC has been installed. We took the car for a long cruise with a car club last weekend as a test run. Car did great except for an ignition slip every now and then that I haven't figured out yet. Things done so far, new points (old ones were burn pretty bad) new plug wires (old ones was the ones on the car when I got it and starting to show cracks here and there). The distributor cap and rotor are not that old, cap looks new bur rotor is looking well used. I pulled one plug and it looks like the carb is spot on. I'll take extra ignition parts but it seems mo

True. I had a powermaster alternator and my voltage would top out around 7.2 but never had problems with my setup.

If your car is still 6v, you can wire a usb outlet straight to the car power source, no problem. Switched or always on. That's how I did my 48. Just get the polarity right.

I'm wondering if a piece of trash worked it's way into the carb and blocking flow somewhere.

Such an awesome car!

She got some new shoes! Diamondback Auburn premium radials. The bias ply tires on it has date codes from 2000 and 2001. Rode bad (might have been able to balance them but I didn't try), follow groves in the road. The radials are a huge improvement.

POR15 on heavily rusted areas (hidden areas) will stop rust, that stuff is amazing on heavily rusted areas. Not for use on smooth surfaces, not uv stabile.

I'm convinced if you apply rust converter, prep the surface to remove the dust created by the rust converter (I used 80 grit to give bite for the primer) then apply epoxy primer, you can get far more than 5 years. If oxygen can't get to the surface, it won't rust. The rust converter kills the rust and the epoxy primer seals the surface from oxygen. I'm no expert though.

Very nice metal work!