Dodgeb4ya

Ohhh...that's ugly! I've never seen one come apart on a flathead...other cars and trucks many!

That's right...

You can remove the damper and pulley without removing the large crank bolt. I have done it many times. The shown hub is ready to be pushed onto the crank with a special installation bolt that is sticking out. Lower pic shows the damper and pulley diameter is larger than the crank bolt and washer.

The distributor you have is basically for a 1957 up Plymouth or Dodge six. Two styles of point sets are used in MoPar sixes from say 1940 thru 1960 ...clockwise wound from the pivot shaft hole and counter clockwise. I always make sure when buying or ordering points to be sure which way they are wound or clocked from the pivot hole...then never an issue. It is always best when ordering to show them a picture of the parts in your distributor...parts guys these days are clueless. The factory Autolite part# for your distributor points is IGW 3028BS.

Have you tried to power up that motor? Looks to me like a good one to clean up...check the bushings and brushes for wear if it does spin up. Easy fix on the wires. The old man probably is picking better easy jobs as being old.

It's nearly impossible to remove a installed pinion seal with out damaging it.

***I looked at the 1954-56 C-Series truck parts book... ***The L and K Series 1957-58 ***1959, 60 and to 1963 trucks. ***1965-70 truck book skipped the flathead 251. What I found was through the 1956 C-3 series trucks all flat heads used the lock washers on the main cap bolts. A # 120384 lock washer was used. But starting in the 1957 "K" models that main bolt lock washer was discontinued up thru at least 1963 as shown in the posted pictures. The 1963 truck parts book exploded engine view is showing the main bolts with out washers. The 1955 parts list shows the the main bolt lock washers . The 1963 parts list sheet only shows the main cap bolts...no lock washers as also shown in the exploded engine view. No rod lock washers used either. Hope this helps!

I have seen this wrench in a couple junk yard Dodge trucks including one in a 2-1/2 ton I bought.... Pretty handy...not too sure what all it does or models it's used for.

Using a screw that is too long when attaching the wire to the Sisson unit will cause a dead short to ground. It needs to be a very short screw.

I forgot I do have 60's MoPar parts books in another bldg. I'm going to check to see if they show the lock washers just to see. I'll post the results tomorrow.

You are probably right. I have seem a lot of later engines that use just plain hardened washers or none at all. I'm really only into 1946-54 MoPar cars and trucks. I know those pretty well.

All of my engines used the 1/2" lock washers # 120384 on the main bolts as shown in all my MoPar parts books. I carefully checked this in 1946-1955 truck and car parts books. These being..218/230 ..251/265 ..323 Straight Eights ..306/413 Moly Block Six I just rebuilt the 413 six using sixteen 1/2" lock washers on the main caps as assembled from the factory. Even the 331/354 Hemi's show the same #120384 ten lock washers as being used. So the 251 uses them too. I rebuilt a 251 in my 1948 DT 2-1/2 I'm sure used washers. I don't know though if it would matter much other than galling the main cap.?

#120384 lock washers on the main cap bolts were used on most all flathead engines thru 1954. This after looking at four different MoPar car and truck parts books. Main cap bolts #864118 was used on most all the 1941-54 flathead six engines also.

All I've ever seen around this area...4.3 rear ends with OD in 50-54 Plymouths. Hilly terrain and mountains 4.3 only way to go.

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All the Chrysler convertible 8 cylinder cars use the small resonator just forward of the rear axle. Reason being the converts use a 30% shorter front muffler that barely fits into the side of the convertible "X" member frame. The exhaust is too noisy with out that resonator. The rare Chrysler Crown Imperial 145" 8 pass sedan and divider window limo's also use the resonator muffler. These models are to only ones to use the resonator.

If that engine is knocking in a serious way or does not sound good don't run my test as I posted above!!!!? I have just heard your short vids.

Do a compression test first thing. Better be good 100lbs all or better. Pull both tappet covers see if it's full of ugly flakey grey and black sludge. Hopefully not. Put the covers back on. Then I'd start that engine up and run it @ 1800-2000 RPM for 30 minutes... Watch temp and oil pressure. Watch coolant level. Listen for any bad engine sounds etc. If it's still smoking after that long of run... ***Rings...if mostly blue smoke and you smell oil fumes and see a oily slime in the tail pipe. ***Gray/white smoke...that does not go away after 10-15 minutes...coolant leak into a intake valve seat or port, head gasket, warped head etc. I did notice though it smoked upon start up on the pallet....no coolant in the engine...so I think it's a oil issue... Run it as I said for a half hour...see if the smoking goes away. You need to get that engine and oil 100% hot at run temp and for plenty of run time too to be sure of a correct diagnosis.

I also have never had any serious charging problems with any of my flathead MoPars. The regulators on a couple cars have been replaced with factory Autolite regulators. These generators charge fine when good quality or OE parts are installed.

It would be nice to see stone/water deflector shields available on these disc brake kits.

Don't tap the bearing races up against the bearing cones. Tap the races to say a 1/16" of the axle housing end surface. Then use the backing plate with your "balanced" side to side estimated thickness of adjustment shims installed to properly "push/set" the bearing race to it's final installed position. Then once both backing plsted are bolted up give each axle shaft a good wack on the axle shaft end nut....this assures the two bearing races are fully pushed up tight against each backing plate. Then and only then can you check axle end play. Both axle shafts at the inner splined ends always push/rest against the center block in the middle of the differential. So when you wack say the left axle shaft it will force the opposite right axle shaft and bearing cone and race tight against the backing plate. This need for using a brass or dead blow hammer to "wack" the axles is absolutely necessary to seat both bearing races TIGHT against the backing plates to get an accurate end play measurement reading. Shims and adjoining shim mating surfaces must be clean. Shims can be unmatched probably .020". Don't worry about them being exact...not really possible. The bearing races rest tight against the backing plate ...not the shims. The shims space the backing plates in or out...changing axle shaft end play by the bearing race position closer to the cones or farther away....in thousand's of an inch...

Only sure way to get the correct seal is to look at yours before ordering. There is also a possible oil leaking area at the back of a HY-DRIVE engine....the two engine to torque converter oil passage O-rings located between the rear face of the engine block and the HY-DRIVE adapter plate. Just some extra info?

IMO the red engine shown in the video's sounds rattly and tired.... valve adjustment won't cure the noises. It doesn't sound as a good tight MoPar flathead should sound. What is the hot idle oil pressure? High rpm oil pressure?

Almost complete Lockheed brake job tool set...

Brake light switch socket...