JBNeal

additional information - Bed Cross Member Location

additional information - Front Hub Dust Cap

ODDBALLS 1. Tucker Torpedo...helicopter engine, in the trunk?? 2. AMC Pacer...funny looking, but great visibility...and that oversized passenger door! 3. Yugo...JESUS H CHRIST 4. BMW Isetta...three-wheeled and the windshield and instrument panel + steering wheel swing open as part of the front door...YIKES 5. Any Corvette with the parking brake in the door sill... it's like GM was saying, "you can be safe, but you're gonna pay for it" [cue Dr. Evil laugh]

Did the Pep Boys recognize something interesting about them wheels...?

Couldn't get the FB link to work (no permission to view), but I found this:

How come the brake cable wasn't installed in the bracket on the flywheel dust cover?

additional information - Midwest Military Bedstrips

additional information - Brent hand cranking a flathead

Gearboxes are the same for 1/2, 3/4 and 1-tons, the difference is B-1 part number is different from B-2 p/n, which is different from the B-3/ B-4 p/n

Build threads are nice ...although if it's a 52, then it'd be a B-3

I use straight tap water when doing shakedown cruises so if there is an issue with the cooling system, I'm not out the $$$ for the funny tasting green stuff...1st thing I do is to calibrate gauge on kitchen stove with pot of boiling water, running several ambient-boil-ambient cycles with gauge adjustments as required...running with a 165F thermostat should register under 180F gauge in temps up to the 100s...the original mechanical gauge will start to move the needle when ambient air temps approach 110F (observed this on several occasions)...the original cooling system was NOT pressurized, and running a pressurized cap will be detrimental to the system...fill the system up to about an inch or so over the cores, excess will burp out of overflow as needed...the laser reading at the bulb should be close to the engine operating temp; sounds like your temp.differential on the radiator is good, also uniform temps across head... the gauge needle can be adjusted by bending the arm that hooks into the needle during kitchen calibration...it takes me several calibration adjustments before I'm happy with the gauge performance...I use my fingers so I do not damage any parts with the "sharp" edges of a pair of pliers

I tried to find pictures posted of this area while it was raining last night but could not find the one I am thinking about of a forum member's restored B-4 with details ya need...I was able to stick my head under my near-stock Spring Special and it has a similar bracket with a broken clamp rusted to the exhaust pipe less than an inch away...this truck was used off-road quite a bit and bears the scars of high-centering a few rocks and possibly hanging a railroad track, so my guess is that if you can attach your exhaust pipe to it, then you're gold...it's not on the B-1s or B-3s in the yard, and the factory parts manual is not much help as the B-4 down pipe is omitted, but the early B-1 down pipe is separated by serial number from late B-1, B-2 and B-3 down pipes...my guess is that bracket was added on B-4s to address some vibration issue with the down pipe, but ya might not need it as evidenced by its lack of use on previous models with the same powertrain

additional information - B-1 Hood Bumper Location

Do not be surprised if ya cannot find the serial number on the frame...I have several frames with only surface rust and there are variations in stamping depth from frame to frame, even the fonts differ...I have a painted Fluid Drive rolling chassis for Frankenstein and the last 4 digits are illegible due to pitting on the frame prior to painting...that frame has a TX title, but they used the engine number to title back in the day, and the engine on the frame doesn't match the title...anyhow, that firewall tag is a cab # that partially shows up on a build card

additional information - Duplicate Thread

additional information - Dodge Rim Differences

Renu Renu Renu

I have sent master cylinders and wheel cylinders for the '48 half ton and '49 1-ton to White Post for sleeving, back in '99 and '04 respectively, and the only issue has been the 1-ton front wheel cylinders have a very small leak, probably due to pitting of the bleeder screw tip, which they told me last year they can fix...not under warranty, of course...$$$ well spent

...and then there is the roller paint method

additional information - DOT Tire Codes

I too have mastered the toe/heel starter method, tho on hot starts I learned to not pump the gas pedal but to just stand on it while cranking...I'm assuming that some gas vapor is present in the float chamber, and WOT allows pressure to drop enough for the fuel pump to open the needle valve

My guess is practicality: bull and reverse gears are for low speeds, such as used around a loading dock or construction site; 1-4 are for city streets; 4-5 are for highways with hills

Build threads are nice...

FCA is rumored to be developing a straight 6 engine family as a power plant for a hybrid system similar to what is used on diesel locomotives...the ICE profile allows for the DC components to be packaged so that the vehicle turning radius isn't impacted...

I had a 1st gear bearing go out on my Dakota 5spd, it would make a medium to high pitch rattling noise...we found chunks of the bearing in the case when disassembling...when in tolerance, bearings whir as they rotate, even under load...as the bearing got out of tolerance, it began to roar...sounds like ya got a loose bearing...maybe thicker oil could quiet it down, Lucas Oil had a transmission additive I used on a John Deere gear box that quieted it down and stopped it from leaking