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'36 Glasstruck

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About '36 Glasstruck

  • Birthday 12/29/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Interests
    Harleys, classic cars, bass and guitar playing, nice garages.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Dodge LC

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    31 year old car and motorcycle enthusiast. I favor old time styling
  • Occupation
    steel fabricator

Converted

  • Location
    Eugene, OR
  • Interests
    Playing Music, Classic Cars, Motorcycles

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  1. Also if anyone has any questions about the truck or wants to see photos of something in particular to help their own process feel free to ask. The truck is almost completely original and almost all there, save for the spare tire so it’s kind of like a rolling database for 1936. And I’ve tried to source all nos or period correct parts for everything I’ve had to fix in order to keep it that way. I’m not super knowledgeable on these but I’ve picked up some knowledge on the way. Having rebuilt the whole brake system and front end, I’m now pretty familiar with those systems for example.
  2. I removed the plug for the accelerator pump jet and cleared it out. It was definitely not working before but is spraying nicely now. I really appreciate the help. This should make the truck run much nicer now. Especially starting out from a stop. Should be like night and day. The accelerator pump was not spraying at all before. No wonder I was having so much trouble off idle. Sheesh. In other news I installed a new bulb in the tail light and got the brake light to work right away. It sticks on a little bit should come out of that. Technically in Oregon all I need is a brake light in order to drive the truck during the day. So really all I need now is a renewed registration and I can cruise it legally. The next thing to tackle is the fuel gauge, headlights and the driver door latch spring. After that is the amp gauge. Can you believe the charging system still works after sitting since ‘76!?! I checked the volts on the battery shut off and running and there is a one volt difference approximately when running. And for kicks I pulled both battery cables off for a sec when running and the truck continued to purr. I really dodged a bullet on that one for now at least. When I purchased this truck it was under the premise “ran when parked” as in operated normally. I’m finding a lot of that to be true and really work to my benefit. The dimmer switch for the headlights is bad (not clicking) and I think that is causing the headlights to not work. It has a very old HAD switch. I can’t seem to source an exact replacement but I found a couple close matches on eBay. Updates to follow as things progress. I have a two year old and and infant so progress is slower now days. I work on the little stuff at night after everyone is sleeping and big stuff during the day on the weekend during nap time. Basically if anything takes over two hours to fix it has to wait until the next night or the weekend. Thanks
  3. I did try something. I pulled the top of the carb off and inspected the accelerator pump and the leather is in good condition. But when I worked the throttle I didn’t get a squirt into the carb. I also manually pushed down on the accelerator pump inside its chamber and I was met with resistance almost like pressure? Kind of like trying to push a full syringe with your finger over the end. Is that normal? It didn’t seem so. I thought I would be able to manually make it pump out but I could not.
  4. I drove it around the neighborhood for a while on Sunday. I think the smoke is clearing up already. It runs really good but but there is a slight stutter off idle/starting from a dead stop. Also if you tap the gas rather quickly. I put a new fuel sending unit in the tank. I notice when I turn the key on the fuel gauge just pegs to full. Does that mean the wire is grounding out somewhere? Is there a way I can test this/remedy it without dropping the tank again. I don’t know if anyone has experience with a ‘36 fuel tank but it is BEAR to remove/install.
  5. Alright fellas I think you are onto something. When I first start the truck up and it's cold i.e. the exhaust pipe is cold, it doesn't smoke a lick. But soon as the exhaust starts to heat up the smoke appears. There must be some oil in the muffler yet.
  6. Backed it out out of the garage on Tuesday fellas and it stopped for the first time with its brand new installed complete brake system while running on fuel from its own tank. A huge step in this project. Now it is at what I consider ground zero. Without brakes and fuel I was in the negative but now I'm about even. Looking to get into the plus. Now is when the real fun starts: getting fixed up for street travel. I know I don't update the thread very often but I'm still at it guys! But as the title of the thread states, it's still smoking like a banshee. Runs like a Swiss watch but smokes something fierce. Through some discussions I'm thinking a head gasket change is the solution. But come to think of it I've probably only had it running about 1 hr total since I freed it up so maybe there is still oil in the muffler. I'll run it some more and see but a head gasket is probably a good idea anyway. Cheers!
  7. Thank you, and thanks for the reply Dozerman. The more I've been thinking about it and looking around the more I just want to stick tubes shock on front and rear. For the price of one original rebuild I could outfit the entire truck with better tube style shocks. Then the question is, how best to go about it. Seems pretty simple except how to mount them. So many options but no concrete way. Tons of generic street rod, dune buggy, truck kits etc. If anyone has done it, I'd love to see some pics for inspiration.
  8. Pretty good progress so far. I have all of my brake components sent off for replacement or refurbishment. I installed new kingpin bushings and test fit. I'm going to paint the axle, backing plates, spindles and rebuild and paint the steering components. I went back and forth on it for a while because I'm leaving the truck as original as possible but I figured it would be nice to have the underneath nice and clean. Might as well have something nice and new looking so there is something to show for all the work. My shock on the front driver side is shot. The shaft is just wobbling and flopping around inside the housing. Does anybody have one they can part with or know if there are rebuild kits available? I would like to modify them to have more spring tension if possible? I also think it's odd that they naturally spring up and are not designed to preload down? Anybody knowledgeable on the Delco Lovejoy knee action shocks could chime in and/or possibly sell me one or point me in the right direction?
  9. Thanks for the tips and will do. My rear end sits on top of the leafs with about another 1 1/2" of U bolt thread left out the bottom. I figured I could put a spacer between the differential holder thingy and the top of the leaf for about another 1" of drop, coupled with a leaf or two removed, it should work out good. I was over at the HAMB looking at my old thread with a few photos (bf I joined over here) and I took a good look at the photos that I haven't really seen in a while, from when I first got it. The truck actually sits pretty nicely in stock form so I don't think I really need to go down too much further to be where I want to be, which is pretty good news, as to not disrupt the steering ect. Keep in mind it has flat tires in the photo, so it actually sits further off the ground, but I'm referring to how the tires look in the wells etc.
  10. Wow, very helpful posts guys! Maybe this thread should end up in the tech section. Not to say my contribution is worthy but the responses are very helpful and the pictures and diagrams great as well. I think I'm going to go ahead with it. I may remove two or three in front and one or two in the rear. I'm going for a borderline radical look. Although one thing that stops me is that I've never ridden in the truck as-is. So I'll never have a basis for comparison of ride quality. Part of me wants to see how it rides first, but the other part of me does not want to tear everything apart again.
  11. Is it best to take from the bottom or remove from the middle or every other one etc? The shorter are probably stiffer but the longer are stronger? Will pulling from the middle and keeping a couple of the shorter ones make for more of a stiff ride rather than pulling, say, the three shortest ones? I have a lot of questions about it. I also didn't realize you had to lube them with teflon etc.
  12. Your truck looks good. One leaf got you 2"? Not bad. Which leaf did you remove? Just right off the bottom? It doesn't seem like too much trouble really. Is the silicone so they do not squeak when put back together? I"m going for noticable rake. I will probably leave the rear alone. Or maybe 2" rear 4" front? Hmmm.
  13. Hi all, I thought I would post this as a separate topic from my truck thread. I've heard of doing this and read of folks saying they've done it, but have not found an actual thread outlining how to do it. One of the original plans with my truck was to lower the front (if possible) to give it a kind of a hot rod raked stance. I wasn't sure if I was actually going to do it, but since I have the axle off to do the king pins and freshen up the steering components, I thought this would be as good a time as ever to explore the topic. I was thinking of lowering it between 2" and 4" depending on what changes or sacrifices have to be made. To the folks that have actually done this or have experience with it. Is it worth it? Will it accomplish what I want or just make it ride like crap? And if removing leafs to make the truck sit lower is a viable option, which leafs would you/should I remove? There are 7 total, which IMO, seems like plenty for a truck like this. Also, as a side note: changing the axle to a dropped aftermarket or adding non-original/ford spindles, machining mods, etc is not an option. I'll just not lower it if I can't do it this way. If there are other Dodge spindles that would work on my '36 and make it sit lower, I would take a look at that option, however. Experienced input is very much appreciated. Thanks
  14. Not to sure. I guess beause it was lead. In hindsight, I probably could have just re-wetted it back in, but I wanted to try brazing. It actually looked better, but then I was paranoid that it may leak in a couple spot, so I went around trying to touch it up, and it kind of snowballed from there. I think it will be alright though.
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