JBNeal

I assumed that some kind of stencil was used for mass production...

Yep, kinda sounds like lack of brake fluid flow is not activating the pressure switch...brake line could be removed to drain fluid and clean out port then remove contamination without removing from the chassis...or possibly rig up line from switch port that drains back into reservoir for quick check of fluid flow after poking that port with a drill bit by hand then flushing master cylinder before re-attaching brake line...there are several ways to skin a cat here... FYI brake light switch issues discussion from 2016

23" cast iron headers...and more!!!

I have seen a variety of interior door handles and window cranks used, and I have a fuzzy memory that JC Whitney sold replacement handles and cranks that fit but varied in shape and size...my guess is that, considering the technology available at the time, many handles fit a variety of makes and models and could be purchased though non-dealer locations, such as service stations, stores like Western Auto, and catalogs like JCW and Sears

additional information - Tapered Hub Removal

I have used diesel on engines that haven't run in decades and Marvel Mystery Oil on engines that haven't run in months/years, would fill up cylinders and walk away for a week before checking on progress...first, I would just pull spark plugs and fill thru that hole, checking depth with a dowel to see how far the fluid had dropped...typically, the stuck cylinder would leak down the slowest...after a couple of weeks, I would pull the heads, then smack the stuck pistons with a short 2x4 and a 5# hammer to introduce some vibration into the piston, then refill only the stuck cylinder and check daily...once the cylinder had leaked down again, I'd repeat the 2x4 smack then try to rotate the crankshaft at the ring gear...if no movement, repeat penetrant fill then smack after bleed down then try ring gear turn...when the ring gear turns with little pry bar effort, I'd attach to the crankshaft nut and turn with a wrench and a cheater bar and continue to turn with penetrant in the cylinder for lubrication until a cheater bar was no longer required...then it was time to disassemble as the pistons were free enough to be removed from their bores

Modern full-floating axles are designed so that the differential and hub bearings are lubricated with gear oil. The 1-ton axle has a chamber bounded by hub oil seals to keep the grease and gear oil separate. This axle design means excess oil in the differential is separated from ambient conditions by that paper gasket at the axle shaft flange as well as those oil seals. Seal failure could mean gear oil could leak out, as well as not circulate for any contaminates to settle anywhere but within the hub bearings, leading to premature failure. Modern axles are designed with a relief to allow for this circulation to prolong bearing life...at least that's the word on the street

My folding table and folding sawhorses are at 30, my workbenches and work tables are at 36, same as my countertops...tho I built a work table for Dad that is 42 so he could do close up work without stooping over. btw one of the lean projects I did at a previous job was to get all workbenches, tables and carts the same height...we were adjusting heights on tables and benches to our purchased carts so that we could minimize lifting required...some thought it was silly at first, but eventually everyone liked that we could slide heavy objects on and off carts onto tables and workbenches without lifting

One of my elder neighbors who had been retired for over 20 years took me to town for lunch as gratitude for cutting down a dead tree that was about to fall on his house...it took a tall ladder and several strategic wedge cuts to make the thing fold down, clear the supply line to the house, and lay on his yard without tearing it up...he watched me do my magic and was amazed at the end result, which included hauling off the timber... the alternative was to hire some pros who were more than likely gonna tear up his yard that he took great pride in, but for the last few years I was maintaining ...he was so grateful that I did all of this, after work one day before an approaching storm, that he insisted on taking me to lunch one Saturday...he picks me up in his car, and every 5 miles or so is fishing his cell phone out of his shirt pocket to deal with it, and because he can't see well, he's holding the phone on his knee...this was on a wide 2-lane that crossed thru one interchange cloverleaf and several suburban highway controlled intersections, so he reeeally needed to be paying attention... I thought I was in a Mr. Magoo cartoon at the close calls he was totally oblivious to surviving...by the time he returned me home, I needed a slug off of the JD cough medicine to calm down...within a year, he and his wife moved into a retirement community in town to be closer to the VA, and he doesn't drive any more cuz of his diabetes... which is probably better for all of us ?

additional information - Speedometer Cable Pinion Seal

FWIW I have seen bonded shoes delaminate and linings tear up hardware inside the drum...contaminated shoes of indeterminate age may be excellent candidates for replacement as new shoes would be cheap insurance against complete brake failure if that rear axle crossover line ruptures

Pilot-House steering wheel diameter is 18"

I reckon to verify, pull the plug wires on #5 and #6 to see if that changes the engine performance...

Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas may improve your results

I have rebuilt engines in 2 trucks: 1 by removing the entire doghouse; the other only removing the hood, inner fenders and front wheels. Lots of crawling on the floor and getting up to get tools then crawling on the floor again...no fans, no AC, no heat, just in a drafty oven of a barn. I do not recommend either way because so much time is spent crawling around, and it's easy to miss stuff and have to backtrack and do something over again, like trying to index the oil pump. My next rebuild (involving the 1st engine) will include dropping the driveshaft, sliding out the transmission, removing the doghouse, lifting the engine out and putting it on a stand for rebuild then a test stand to fine tune it. This will also allow me to clean up and paint the engine, transmission, driveshaft, etc. This seems like more work than to rebuild in the truck, but I'll only have to do it once...I am almost certain that I have a spun bearing that has locked up that 1st rebuild, something that I did not check when I rebuilt that engine while in college. Another part of the plan is to remove the bed and move the cab temporarily in its place...this would give me room to work on the front half of the chassis, as well as be able to do any work to the cab by using the back half of the chassis as a work surface

Where there's a will, there's a way... also, the trick to turning is to keep moving, even if it's only at a snail's pace

additional information - Dome Light Installation

While doing some follow-up research, I found this undated article that compares the NAPA 1011, Wix 51011 and Baldwin JC405 filters...there is also an amusing anecdote regarding how helpful Wix has been with this issue...so if your sock filter does not fit inside its housing, it may have not been made correctly

additional information - Installing a Sock Oil Filter

Could there be a seep at the thermostat housing / hoses that is blowing into #3?

additional truck picture thread - B-3

Maybe using a hi-torque impact wrench on the screw is a little much...try using a 5# hammer on the wrench arm that comes with the kit. This slow application of torque may allow you to see when hitting with a hammer stops turning the wrench. That's the point where I would walk away for awhile before trying again. Notice on the original style tools how much beefier the cast arms are in comparison to the asian version, especially on the original style that is the basis for the asian version. The original style tools could take a pounding (literally) for years of service life; the asian versions of the original pullers, not so much as they are (unfortunately) disposable by design...also, apply some Marvel Mystery Oil at the hub and shaft interface, that may soak in while torque is being applied while you're off doing something else

I am in the last stretch of cleaning and reorganizing my work area after being swamped with projects since I converted it from a small 1-car garage almost 5 years ago...layer upon layer of remnants of projects have been on the workbench, with parts belonging to cars or ppl that are no longer around, each layer a reminder of what I was doing so many months / years ago...finally I have the time to separate the chaff, organize the remainder and clear the workbench, storage shelves and floor that I haven't seen in quite some time...all in preparation for the next onslaught of projects that might include converting some of my yard art into operational vehicles...this whole exercise has been cathartic, with the feeling of being overwhelmed with work being replaced with a sense of accomplishment...maybe spending 3 days sorting nuts bolts screws etc helped, maybe burning a truckload pile of scrap that was taking up space brought some relief...at any rate, it's good to be organized once again and free to move about the shop without worrying about knocking over a pile

If you have some patience and a little skill, ya might be able to drill out that screw

How'bout ya get that knockout plug and drill some holes in it...