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furiousgeorge

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    114
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About furiousgeorge

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 01/22/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saskatchewan
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge 1/2 on Dakota frame.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm married with three kids, and have been a Dodge man since I was 10.
  • Occupation
    I'm a miner operator underground for Mosaic Potash.

Converted

  • Location
    Saskatoon erea, Saskatchewan, Canada
  • Interests
    I've rebuilt a few MoPars, scale model building, anything that keeps my hands busy!

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  1. I figured they’d be the same internally (except the cam). Is there a better place to get parts?
  2. Hello, I’m starting to get ready to gather parts for a rebuild on my 1950 truck 228. My plan is to use the crank and rods out of a 251 from a truck, and bore the 228 out to the standard 251 size. My question is this, is there a difference between a 251 from a truck, and one from a car? I generally order parts from Rock Auto, and they list most of what I need if I look under a 1950 Chrysler Windsor with a 251, but under a ‘50 truck with the 251 they don’t lost any of what I need (pistons, rings, bearings and so on). Are they that different? I was under the impression that they’d be exactly the same?
  3. I never noticed if the front springs/axle were different when I had my 1/2 ton parts truck, but the 1/2 ton spindles fit the 1 ton axle (from ‘48 1/2 ton to ‘50 1 ton).
  4. Thanks for the info! I’ve already got them pulled out when I pulled the axle (didn’t really want them falling on my head!). So what is the difference between 1/2 and 1 ton springs? The number of leaves? Thickness? My truck didn’t have rear shocks or any mounting parts for them, so I’ve got to track that stuff down. I’m just trying to soften the ride out a bit. When the truck was drivable, it was like i could feel every little bump and crack in the road!
  5. I’ve been slowly upgrading and piecing back together the old Dodge, currently working on a rear end swap. The truck was originally a 1 ton dually with a dump box, though the hydraulics and such were removed by the guy I got it from. I noticed that the rear springs consisted of two spring packs, the top one just sits on top of the main one. There are brackets front and back that hold it in place when the truck is on its wheels, once I had it on stands with the rear end out, I just lifted them out. So are the main springs the same as half or 3/4 tons? They’re easy to put in and out, so I figured I’d keep them in case I ever haul anything heavy.
  6. Awesome, thanks guys! Time to start measuring!
  7. Hello! I have a ‘50 1 ton that has a Rusty Hope disc brake set up on it (with 1/2 ton spindles). I’m starting to look around at rims and tires, but I don’t know how to figure out what offset I need, or how big I can go (I’m thinking around 18”). Google only brings up measuring what offset a wheel has. How do I go about figuring it out? Thanks!
  8. I don’t know if they are or not, but they fit the curvature of the roof perfect and look good!
  9. It was originally a marionish red, just in primer for who knows how long. But I’m a poor boy so in primer it’ll stay! I like the red wheels with the grey, but since I added the disc brake kit and a rear ended swap, I have to get different rims. Not sure what style to go with, but will probably be black rims.
  10. The rods are roughly 8 1/4” center to center, has 954418 on it.
  11. Ok, the crank got turned down .020. Though they're pretty convinced its from a 218 industrial based on the part numbers stamped on the bearings that were in it. Is there a way to id the crank? He wrote the casting number down for me on the receipt (955194), I'll measure the rod length in the morning. This engine has been rebuilt at least once in its life, so not a stretch to think that the crank/rods got switched out. The block has been bored .060 already, and could use it again, what is the maximum it can be taken? I've read that the small bore blocks can be bored out to the larger 3 7/16 bore, so I may end up doing that with the original 228 (it had spun a rod bearing, leading me to buying the 251), and using the 251 crank and rods (if that's what they actually are) and get a 251 with the original block.
  12. Is there a specific spot the proportioning valve should be installed? I do have one, and I figured I’d put it along the frame where the stock front/rear splitter is. Looking at my ‘48 1/2 ton parts truck, the steering box is bolted directly to the frame rail (inside of the rail), where on my ‘50 1 ton, its in the same place along the rail, but instead of being bolted right to the frame rail, it sits outward (toward the engine) by the width of the top of the frame. So that puts it directly in front of the mc, with around 1/8” - 1/4” between them. I guess it’s just one of the differences between 1/2 and 1 tons?
  13. I ended up drilling new holes in the frame, and it looks good to go now. How did you get the Cherokee master in with the adapter plate? On my truck theres barely enough room for the stock mc before it hits the steering box, and the Cherokee one is a fair bit longer. Also, one last question, is a proportioning valve nessesary for the disc swap? The instructions say that they’ll work with a stock mc, but don’t mention needing the proportioning valve or not.
  14. Well, I ended up just taking the crank in the be turned, so I gave them the old bearings and told them what I know. They seemed pretty confident that they can get the right ones for me.
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