Adam H P15 D30

Pretty sure these are the same size a early HEMI blocks. Hot Heads and others sell screw in core plugs for the issues I mentioned early in this thread. Easily installed in the car.

A Runtz resistor for your fuel gauge. Forget about the radio, you're also changing polarity. Disconnect it Wiper motor is probably vacuum operated Horns don't care Replace horn and starter relays. Starter doesn't care. Clock (if you have one) doesn't care. I used a mid 60s Dart heater blower motor (12v). Change out headlamps and light bulbs to their 12v equivalent. Swap your ammeter wires around since you're changing to negative ground. If you are running more than a 50a alternator, bypass the ammeter. Make sure you're wiring is in good shape or replace it!!

Can't help you with the seat belts as I only have lap belts front and back but I wanted to say that is a nice, clean looking interior.

Ice will crack your block long before any core plug will pop out. They are there to remove casting sand, any other function is a myth.

I clean and JB weld my core plugs in, mostly on Hemi engines that have a history of blowing them out on hard use. They use the same plugs as our flatheads and still come out when replacing.

May be at an extreme angle when the body is put back on and the suspension compresses

Are the shock mounts welded upside down?

The specs will be different if you plan to run radials.

Cut that clip off and splice it on to an original frame if you must, it might also be too wide... Frame swaps almost always end up looking like frame swaps.

Jack the front wheel off the ground and rock it top to bottom, up and down and look for movement in the kingpin area. Might as well check your tie rod ends while you're at it. Your smart phone should have an angle meter on it, check camber degrees with it before jacking the car up.

I would check your kingpin / bushings on the side that's wearing before anything else. Could also be a bent spindle Probably not toe because it's only 1 side. EDIT: Check wheel bearings also

I always pack the seals with grease to keep the springs from falling out.

Yes, just use less hardener when the outside temp goes up. Did you finish weld that panel before adding Bondo?

There's a low pressure switch available for this exact reason.

Oh and I used the 5 pin on one of my old builds with a boost switch. Worked great at retarding the timing over 10lbs of boost. Also works well when connected to Nitrous. Great little module!

Make sure to read carefully, the HEI module will fire when the points close instead of opening. This will cause to rotor to be out of phase with the cap. I tried this once and built a little inverter inside my (now unused) voltage regulator. It worked but in the end it was easier to convert a slant 6 distributor and much less complicated.

Vintage door knob... Why not?

If you mean Pertronix, definitely not nearly as reliable as a \6 conversion. Combine the \6 conversion with a GM HEI module and you're pretty much bullet proof. Can't say the same about Pertronix.

One question: Why risk it? Manual transmission lube is readily available and I too saw a shifting improvement with the MTL fluid. If GL-5 was the ONLY oil available then I understand but that's not the case. Put the right stuff in and forget about it for 5 years... Modern transmissions don't have yellow metal in them and most don't use gear oil anyway.

Here is one link for a GM 6. http://devestechnet.com/Home/HEIInstall Here is another link on the slant 6 forums https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=15779 the slant 6 forum link is the most in depth

Just ask for a 1975 GM full size car module. It will be a 4 pin, you can see it on my firewall under the hood hinge here You need a heatsink, I used a spare I had from a 97 LT-1 swap. The module can require 10+ amps so a small battery wouldn't last long. 12v conversion is a must. -OR- convert a slant 6 POINT distributor and keep the points with 6v. I don't like the MOPAR units as they still need that troublesome ballast resistor I use my supply of Pertronix coils I save from the failed units I throw away. Or use an early 80's Mopar Lean Burn coil. Some canister coils don't like 12v running to them all the time. You can also change to an e-coil and increase your plug gap to .055 or so if you wish, I don't see the need and I don't like the look. You MUST change to resistor plugs and wires Been running it for several thousand miles now with zero issues.

One of the best upgrades I did to my 49 was the rear axle, I guess I fought the brakes one too many times. When I finally needed a replacement drum, that sealed the deal. Plus I'll never have to fight them again, not to mention those Detroit joints on the driveshaft. I used an 8" Ford out of a Falcon and it was 1" narrower than stock. Fit fine and I am running 8" wheels on a lowered car with no rubbing. Below is the list I sent to Denny's Driveline and they shipped me a new driveshaft for around $400.00. That's pre-inflation prices though. You will need to "Flange" 2-2-349 to attach to the transmission output shaft. Unless you are using an 8" Ford, ignore the length and rear u joint. Here is the link for the slip joint and tube Denny's used: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9619_1310ss_3_spline_and_slip_driveshaft_3_inch_dom_tube_1310_sli.html

Like I said, a lot of them showed up with the timing light when they were crapping out, I would try that first. Second would be taking a heat gun to the distributor and getting it good and hot, see if the problem shows up. EDIT: If it is the module, I wouldn't wait because "getting worse" might be dead on the road.

Every one of them were installed with their respective coils and lasted a bit of time before they crapped out. About half of them you could see erratic timing with the timing light. Seems every one of my car friends were suckered into this "update" and ended up with a poor running engine sooner or later. They would change / rebuild carbs and fuel pumps refusing to suspect that module, then I would put points back in for them or do the slant 6 mod / GM HEI module to fix the issue. Even had one friend that put 2 new Pertronix modules in his vette before he gave up. Pertronix makes good coils though, haven't had to switch any of those out yet including on my 49 with a slant 6 distributor and a take off Pertronix coil. Before I moved, I used to have all the modules hanging on my wall of shame in the shop. Probably pulled about 20 of them over the last 10 years.