Stevenlesser

Hi good answers !,thanks I put a Ford rear diff on the car for my first attempt to commuter-ify the car so I got a lokar universal dash pull brake cable set : bingo im already committed to the 709r4 cause I bought one , better or worse / sickness and health the wilcap guy said make a support for the back of the trans or it’ll torque the rear support kit for a 58’Chevy pu 700r4 conversion project looks good is 3” to narrow for Mopar frame rails but 11/2” spacers on each side will fix or the stock crossmember is riveted on so after the trans is on Maby I could grind out the rivets and use it over by sliding it back that was smart thinking for the firewall + adaptor measuring trick !! if the exhaust manifold hits , reds headers makes a spitfire set I’ve put on a plymmie that had straight down pipes

Hi I’m going to try to install a 700r4 into my 51 Chrysler Windsor with L head 230 inline 6 spitfire . Replacing tiptoe 2soeed to create commuter . Hoping to tap community for advice per any difficult spots in process . Of note ; have Wilcap adaptor best trans choice was per Wilcap reputable quality rebuild done questions am already committed to this one as I’ve payed for parts 1) can I mate adaptor and trans with engine in place or do I have to tip it out or remove it ?and if I have to tip ,will the head or exhaust manifold bash into already close quarters firewall? will adaptor plate fit and not hit firewall ? 2) will I have to tunnel the floorboard hump to fit her in ? 3) looking for pictures of rear support solution , reposition existing support be cutting or grinding off and sliding back ? Adapt one from different vehicle ? ( I have one for that trans going into old Chevy p/u Wilcap guy offered to send pics but didn’t although I’ve asked x4 Hope to get guidance from someone who’s done it thanks !

hello from hot texas , need guidance for ac bracketry to adapt l head 236 in 12 v converted 50 desoto to accept sanden compressor Any kits out there ?

Wow thank you for the effort for that great reply ! I appreciate it what you told me will get me started sorting this out I replaced all of the bulbs one combo wires I tried started to heat up ! your pictures show 2 switches , there’s not 2 is there ? My wires are so bad the insulation is turning to dust, no color I got a replacement switch off eBay from Hilltop it has newer plastic color insulation ,but sounds like it copies the original color scheme . in spirit sort of . theres a green and dark green a white and off white a black and a red A couple of generations of owners had monkeyed around with the wiring and a new motor harness was put in in a not so professional manner so some of the wiring is that “fake old “ looking wiring that may be color matched ,sort of the three from the engine compartment that go forward through the firewall (to the flasher ?) the flasher was replaced (both mechanical ) and the other set is from a bundle tword the left side I guess that does the rear lights .i had to splice some wire on to that one one to replace rotted ones this one disappears into the harness off to the left side in a bundle the triple connectors had gotten corroded and partially melted so I replaced them with new individual male / female connectors taking the dash off would help for exposure a lot but I can’t figure where it attaches i invented “dashnastics” one combo got both fronts flashing one combo got left working ok , not right , but then got hot i feel like 3 stooges ! What is a dvom?

Dash wiring blues! Hi I git the switch installed ,but am flummoxed on which of the 6bwires go to which of the 6bwires coming from under the dash 36 possible combinations ! Some of them make g hot wires ! How do I get the dash off of the car?

Hi I built this exact car ;50 desoto edmunds dual intakes Langdon hei dizzy and his pinto 2 bbl carbs ,it had a tiptoe trans and I recently put in a three speed with a borg Warner overdrive ,the car has a 3.9 rear end that went with the tiptoe Now with the 3 speed manual she lugs a bit in first ,to replace the original start off slow ooze start with the automatic transmission ,so I don’t think that making it perkier is going to happen .My next move was to put a 3.5 rear end in the Mopar a 41-48 Chrysler or other Mopar rear end from that bracket of time will be a 3.5 and a easy fit .you may have to change the yoke witch varies amongst Mopar products . another thought might be a 8.8 ford rear axel ,not the pricey famous 9” .ford ranger truck has’m this is a 3.2 it’ll have the same wheel pattern as Chrysler ,but I don’t know if you would pass the Moser test . this is going up,MoserSt from San Pablo blvd in el cerrito near you !

Hi I'm pulling off a 50 desoto manifolds ,and I got everything loose ,movement ,but no freedom ,must be the hidden bolt!!!,I looked on a few sites and everyone's cracked a few manifolds not knowing about it until afterward ,some say " up and under " now it's directly behind the heat Riser in the middle ,I'll bring a mirror on a stick and a flashlights get to see if I can spot it ,I'd given up and deferred to the " real" mechanic

Hi I have a 50 desoto with a chevron shaped cowl vent It works of a under the dash lever , The mechanicals work smoothly but it's been leaking ,front part of driver and passenger carpets soaked and when I pulled them up the floorboArds particularly where they meet they firewall have been rusted pretty hard suggesting a ongoing condition , There's a gasket I can change ,there's a drain tubu I mistakenly pulled on and pulled out with no obvious way to get it back in or how it works I've seen these on dodges and chryslers I love the cowl vents! Any dry advice?

Langdon Stovebolt had them casted this is the headers (3+3 ) that will fit on the longer desoto 25" block rather than the 23" Plymouth block ,you can buy them from them ,if you want duals on your desoto ,they're at the shop going in now so I can't take a pic but the look just like the Plymouth headers he has ,they have a website wherevyouncan see them

I have a desoto that looks almost the same , the fluid coupling is a good thing to check ,it's just a torque converter ,but there's a trick to it ,it has to go up on a lift ,then there's a little hole with a bolt ,you could put fresh fluid in it, as it'll still be working pretty good even if the level is low and its cruddy inside ,look at the manual it'll have a procedure ,the " desotoland "site ,there's endless fluid drive discussion ,the choice of fluid is important to avoid modern detergents and weird goo added to the fluid One easy and great mod is a positive ground 6 v pertronix points eliminator ,boy what a difference that makes at upper RPM's! The speed limit back in the day was 45 mph

There is a guy I got my dual master set up for a 49 Studebaker called" Turner Brake" out of Indiana ,he's on the net,or 317 8770453 after 6 pm turnerbrake.com He had a kit with a dual master kit for the Stude that was under the frame mounted ,and some tasty rear disc set ups , Some folks make there's it's bitsty boosters for disc set ups but the smaller the booster the more vacumbing it takes ,which is problematic if you have the low compression inline 6 On the Plymouth you have room on the firewall for a good sized (8"-9")booster with a hanging brake pedal and could put in a front disc kit There's a company called (?)power brake something, on orange street in Southern California 'that makes the parts for everyone's kits and they're universal kits fit great and wow what a stepping difference ,I put this on a heavy Packard touring car and was real happy

Oh great that makes perfect sense ! Thank youThe ring retainer pushes the curved inward facing flanges on the inside of the ring such that it should separate the spring which is pushing up from where it is compressed between the ground cup and the brass bracket When the ring is moved the spring will tip up and hit the bracket I'll try this out ! I had put a neoprene flat washer between the cup arms rating

Hi do you happen to know how the horn ring is assembled? I'm missing some little parts and have to make them I have to get my 50 desoto instrument panel off too

Hi I'm putting steering wheel and horn ring back together and am missing some little parts which I cam make but importantly I'm missing the installation order of the parts to make it work There's a 3 spoke plastic wheel ,the Delux is 2 spoke hard rubber and they're usually ok but the fancy 3spoke custom is deteriorated plastic It is held on with a washer then a nut The ground wire comes through this and is supported by a 3 legged 1/16 " thick brass piece which screws to the wheel ,the wheel isn't grounded its plastic ,I'll call it a brass bracket The ground wire fits through a slot ins is isolated by a Bakelite insulator and floats on a spring ( these are missing) So it doesn't ground on the brass bracket There's a metal button soldered to the end of the ground wire which is the contact There's a coil spring that sits on the brass bracket then a horn ring ,and this is held in place be a pot metal clam shell thing that screws into the isolated wheel,tip the ring ,the spring allows to to deflect and somethings supposed to contact supply ground and the horn goes off but something is missing from this set up and no diagrams ! Could anyone post a napkin diagram pic or a photo of thier horn? The ornament easily prices off

The tip tow is a 2 speed trans with an overdrive for the upper range ,so lo hi and hi with a overdrive ,your colomb lever controls the upper and lower range hi and low There's a kick down switch on the carter carburetor to go out of the overdrive if you need the power and ask for it by stomping the pedal Conversely if you push on the throttle to accelerate and pull your foot and coast off it'll dump it into overdrive It's a happy slo mo clunk that's hard to miss The idle is supposed to be 450 or so so if it's setby a mechanic to a modern number like 1000 rpm the system gets fooled There's a wiring harness with a couple of lines from the carb ,and from A firewall mounted relay and from lines the dash that goes back to the transmission in the desoto a junction block is on the air cleaner support There's a governor and a solenoid,all over drives work this way the governor runs the solenoid ,it's just a switch that turns on at a certain speed and activates the solenoid which is just a switch that works by sticking out a rod Try visiting desotoland site they're walking desoto-encyclopedias!