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Cat Whisker

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About Cat Whisker

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    49 Plymouth


  • Location
    MID Tennessee
  • Interests
    Cars, Fishing

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  1. The picture was before I started to assemble and you are right. The ring gear was hitting the gasket when it was about an inch from being home. Long story short, the gasket now has a notch in it. Many thanks and take care.
  2. Thanks for the input dpollo. I thought it best to blast it first before I took it apart in an effort to keep any blasting media out of it. The pumpkin and axle tubes were completely stripped as the insides had a complete coating of about a 1/4" of pure sludge. I've seen engines that ran 70K miles on older paraffin based oils with less buildup of crud. All bearings were replaced and the rebuild only required the addition of .002 more shim ( took out a .090 and added a .092) to get the preload at 20 IP without the drag of the axle or pinion seals. Before assembly, I thoroughly cleaned everything and power sprayed it. I found all the parts that I needed except the carrier gasket so I had to make one. Just to keep it all MOPAR, I added the part number. See picture. My reason for asking the year of the rear end is because this came out of a 49 Plymouth SD and all replacement parts for the rear crossed to a 49 Plymouth except the pinion bearing ( the one I removed was a Timken 31590 which every reference I found for it said it belonged in a 50 Dodge 1/2 truck. That's the pinion bearing I ended up getting and it fit and torqued perfect. Thanks again and take care.
  3. I finally got started on the rear axle. Fun times with the sand blaster but it cleaned up very nice. It had no serious leaks or drips but did have the normal seepage. After getting all the mud, crud, and at least 50K miles of road tar outta the way, I was able to see the casting numbers and the ratio stamped by the fill plug, which 3.9:1 is the normal from what I have found. I was hoping for something a bit more highway friendly. I have found/obtained the inner and outer axle seals, axle bearings, pinion bearings, wheel cylinders, pinion bearing w/seal, case gasket, and pinion Speedi-Sleeve, by searching this forum for 1949 Plymouth SD parts. My question is how to determine what year the rear end was made. Does the 151 above the casting correlate to a year like Jan 51? Many thanks in advance for any assistance.
  4. Well Greg, I must be doing something right. The Glove Compartment Gods (GOG) are watching out for me. In restoring the inside area, specifically the dash with new gauges, I opted for a new glove box and when it arrived, I wondered why it had an emergency kit in it. Low and behold, check out the picture of what it contained. I also made sure I got a starter solenoid with a terminal for the "I" if I need to revert back to the stone age. For now I'm going with just the one heat shield as most of my efforts are contraited on the rear end. It's getting new bearings, seals, etc. I am glad it's got spacer shims for the pinion preload and not a PITA crush sleeve. The local O'reilly's has all the bearings and the correct inner oil seals. They even recommended the correct outer oil seals. Many, many thanks for the advice and info. And for making me go thru my old parts bins to find a ballast resistor, even if it's a GM...
  5. I didn't even know there was a heat shield.Since you mentioned it, I found a few pictures of it installed and I did talk to the previous owner. There wasn't one on it during the 9 years he had it either. He said there was no problems. I know I wasn't too fond of the metal fuel tube that was going to the carb being as close to the manifold as it was. That's why I used braided PTFE hose and kept it somewhat away from the heat. I did download the specs for the heat shield which calls for cold RS about .050 thick. I do have lots of 14, 18, and 22 gauge metal around but will probably make one out of aluminum. A close neighbor has a real nice forming brake that can do rolled sections too. The dizzy is a stock Autolite but I did replace the points with a Pertronix Ignitor. Testing it on the bench really impressed me. The multiple spark it makes rivals anything that MSD has. The carb is a Uremco that was for a 1966 Mustang L6 (260 CI). It's a 2 bbl downdraft which fits the intake manifold and required very little adjustment for the stock throttle linkage. As for the timing, I will use a vacuum gauge and a under hood digital tach. The current plugs are stock R45's set at .038 which should be OK with the Pertronix 60K volt coil. Many, many thanks for the info and the reference to the heat shield.
  6. I did the putty thing and got the measurements before I milled the deck and head. I guess like you, I never thought to take them again AFTER metal work was finished. It's together and torqued down, installed, and resting on the mounts. I will definitely keep this in mind for the next time. Thanks and take care.
  7. I'm sure glad someone is out there to keep me honest. Of the heads/blocks I've done in the past, I have chamfered around the sharp edges. I had forgotten this time. Many thanks for the reminder. I cleaned the head again and give her a good coat. I got it mounted and torqued down yesterdy. I was able to add some of the goodies now the head is on. Many thanks again and take care.
  8. Thanks for the info Adam. This is the 1st OHV engine that I have done. Play-Doh is my friend. I did take .050 more for a total of .083 off the head and .008 off the top of the block. The top of the pistons are still below the deck, but just barely. I just finished the head yesterday. I also took about .007 off the top of the head to square it up at the bolt holes and the water gasket surface. The mill marks look rough in the picture but the surfaces are really smooth. I should have this puppy started in a few days. Thanks again and take care.
  9. I would like to get this puppy together but I am going to cc it just to have an idea. If I can reach something around 8 to 1, I'll be a happy camper. Thanks for the info and take care.
  10. That's what I did. It cleaned it up real nice. I was going by the stamp of .023 that was already on the head so I guessing/hoping that I'm at .070 plus the .002-.003 I took off at first to deglaze it. Thanks for the vote of confidence.
  11. Great reference info. Many thanks for sharing. I'm going to get the head mounted on the mill table this evening and let the chips fly. Thanks and take care.
  12. I did the clay (Play-Doh) in 3 cylinders. That's how I got the measurements of .204 to .216 of head to valve clearance at the edges of the domes (thinnest area). Thanks again and take care.
  13. If I can get something close to 8 to 1, I think that will wake it up just a bit. My husband left me this project which has become more of an obsession than a project to finish it. As for the money, I have a J2 mill and with this stay at home stuff, I have plenty of time. I was just hoping that someone would have some experience with the head to valve clearances on a flathead Dodge 6. Thanks and take care.
  14. I forgot to mention that I did take some of the top of the block to deglaze it. I removed no more than .002 at the most. The head gasket I plan on using is a Fel-Pro with copper on one side. With the numbers you have on yours, they sound great. I'll bet it's a real pleasure to drive. If I can reach something close to 8 to 1, I'll be a happy camper. Thanks and take care.
  15. I've been working on this 52 Dodge 230 engine for over a month now and have just about finished. She's got new valves, guides, seats, springs, new .030 over pistons, new bearings, seals, gaskets, etc, new oil pump and starter. After cleaning the head, I found someone had stamped the head underside (gasket side) with .023 so I guessing it was already milled/shaved. It does seem like an odd amount to remove but I have no way to know how much, if any was milled off. Checking with my very old Starrett straight edge, it's in great shape with no more than .003 gaps anywhere. I would like to shave more off (around .045-.050 more) After placing a new head gasket in position and setting the head on with putty in 3 chambers and head bolts very snug, I get readings from .204 to .216 of head to valve clearance at the thinnest places after 2 complete revolutions. In the past, working on other engines, I tried to keep the head to piston clearance somewhere around .090-.100 so I'm guessing this wouldn't be any different for valve to head space. I was able to finally get the engine back where it belongs. See pics. Does anyone see why I shouldn't go ahead and shave .050 off the head?? Many thanks in advance...
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