Plymouthy Adams

you mentioned a lot of things done to improve and or satisfy the cooling requirement of the stock arrangement. Couple items not mentioned in your list, proper fan belt tension, lower radiator hose maybe fitted with an anti collapse spring and lastly to ensure your temp sender and gauge are actually reporting the correct temp. Pretty sure you have the belt adjusted proper but if you have not verified the lower hose condition under speed at temp...pump will suck this closed with some of the modern thinner rubber on today's market without the spring installed. Verification of temp at block and radiator would be good to take to ensure your gauge is reporting correctly. Could be nothing more than bad readings....

I was just curious.....as with the swing arm offset to the clutch side and the fact if it was later curved back in to miss the clutch pedal (detail not shown) you would still have interference with the column based solely on the position of the original steering column as it passed through the floor. I corrected a build such as this and these were the very findings......

THANKS....!!!

is this an automatic transplant also as the clutch is not shown if still original configuration on the frame or just no longer necessary. Barely see the top of the loud pedal.

I have purchased driveshaft components from NORTHER DRIVETRAIN......you will however need to know what it is you are wanting to fabricate. Good prices....good service. Like all things...shipping was a bit costly but that was due mainly to the new tube had to be be shipped separately. This kindly timely as I have called and scheduled tomorrow for the trip to the shop for assembly weld and balance.

if the original boss has been shaved (driver side above generator) then you engine history is probably lost. You can stroke the engine at the #6 access hole but you will need the bore to determine the CI. Originally your engine would have been a 201. I do not think military used special designation as these cars were nothing special beyond military sales...as Greg carefully pointed out the 'CAL' would truly indicate the state assigned number for a builder to allow registration. Your build card would reflect the original number to the engine and this is also stamped on the rear frame at/near tip up at axle drivers side. This should match your build car...if not...then you are truly homogenized...

inspect your master cylinder for blocked/restricted return passage...old lines can appear good from look but we cannot see the internal condition....a quick bleed of the wheel cylinder would tell you quickly if the line was restricted AFTER checking the master return port hole...be sure also that the piston in the master is fully returning to the rear stop...often this can getting a bit of rust and hold brakes on a bit.....and besides you wish not to damage a seal when probing the return bleed hole...

per my Motors....in 1959 the last year for the flathead in the US the designation on the block was MP1-L for the Plymouth 230 and MD1-L for the Dodge also 230....the design prefix "N" was not used in the US....the big sisters were not running any flatheads at this time either. Now I cannot speak for the Canadian designations and they used the flathead in 1960 also for cars. There is still the truck lineup to consider but I do not have a light truck book but I do believe their number started with a T. I know some heads will have the large letter N cast on top..... If you engine is stamped with a N what is the rest of the number and manner of sequence...? If you wish not to show your entire number say if it was N-355231 you can post it as N-35XXXX just would like to know the number of place holders. Numerous rebuilders would shave and stamp per their specifications and any combination of letter or number could well be possible.

are you looking to do just lap belts or three point shoulder straps....

that looks more like ind 251

cutting using your old pane can often be a poor fit and only as good as the cutter is experienced.....if the shop does not cut by the NAG patterns....I would be concerned with fitting issue. I would by todays standards also suggest tempered glass over the safety glass for all but the windshield panes. Online you will find shops in your general area that would be able to cut per your requirements. Tempered glass will often be cut locally, shipped to be fired and then returned to the shop or yourself direct from the firing facility.

photobucket is a has been and has been for quite some time....this would border on a scam by todays offerings. I view them as a hostile "hostage" site....where they survive on threats alone to generate revenue.

guess it is all perception, I read that line as he would think twice of using it in newer tranny but not think twice about it in an old mopar 3 speed.....after all, it is the exact recommended oil....kind of a no brainer for certain... most modern transmission have their own specific blend of synthetic oil + modifiers and such for the internal components and as such can be a tad costly.....real costly if you use the wrong oil....

the oil bath filter is still common in many commercial and agriculture circles due to the fact they are much better filters. But I also see and understand the trend to go with the paper...and in the town/urban communities of paved roads and few plowed fields of stirred dust lingering over the highways....it a suitable means to filter the air. But for certain the oil bath will win in all aspects except cleaning and servicing.

the factory manual has the stock jet size listed and the traditional -1 size lean jet for the higher altitudes. First you have to establish if your car was adjusted at the mixture for this area or actually changed to the smaller jet...time to dig in and get to the truth...

I did get my lenses drilled and fitted my glass blue dots.....

that would be some deformed stick men.....you may be in for a lawsuit.....

if safety latch is working odds are your pin is aligned to the latch but you are not latching easily so you need to length the pin so it will reach the depth in the latch it needs to secure. At the base of the pin is a jamb nut...this you loosen up and then adjust the pin (lefty lengthens..righty shortens)

I have two cherry bomb mufflers here....son dropped them off.....one is basically a straight pipe with holes and glass....does not do much for sound I would think...the other has an internal spiral wrap on the inlet and outlet .....I am curious to slip this over the collector of the little engine when I test fire it before install.....and I have a nice 80db muffler that I hope will be my oyster.....love the look of the outlet....

usual is USUALLY what is to be expected.....many will default to OEM in these cases....even in the case of my LBC van I opted for a Walker pancake muffler....size and fit played a predominant role in selection....oval being less offensive in sight and scrub line issues....should be relatively quiet. I also opted for a heat shield to match its dimensions somewhat. At 1.750, much greater pipe diameter over stock and matches the better exhaust manifold also.

I found most of the issues on later pre 90's wheels (last rear wheel car by MM was 1989) were the bulge of the radial tire or the offset right at the very tie rod end...based on maker of tie rod would also alter clearance...one was so close only the balancing weight hit....the thin spacers are nice and really not an issue in geometry like some adapter/spacers can be.

I believe that rust issue is almost still a large problem especially with the new chemical...electroplate has extended the mean time before rust through....but the rust is still in progress nonetheless....this is still the prime reason I will not live in the great white north...my son is working a late model SUV from the north....brake caliper bleeders all broken out...the lines corroded beyond safe use....awaiting new lines now as customer wants factory lines and order the line kit.

I did a bit or reading and the laws are so vague....sound testing not a set standard and when there is a standard established the set up procedure is unclear and could well be done wrong. The speed at center of highway reading.....the 50 foot law is another. For instance....stationary testing at 20" supposed to have the mic at a 45 degree angle parallel to the exit of the pipe...is this a leading or trailing angle as it is not stated....one video shows police taking the reading dead inline with the pipe rendering vehicle unsuited for road use. Many states setting very low db levels...some as low as 72-76db Many are still going on a 95 as the newer cars are tuned to this level, surprisingly Calif. recognizes this 95 level. Legislation is pending in many states just on this issue alone. Reciprocity of states registration will be tested to the limits and offended by other state's LEO's. This states if your car is registered in state 1 the legal guidelines in this state will be honored by the other 48 (not sure of Hawaii not being on the continent) as you transit their highways. Such things as blue dots and YOM tags....are such legal for you can be a highly noticed offences in other states....if one state recognizes 95 db then any other state has to let it slide as long as the car is 'transit'. I carry a copy of both laws in my cars with blue dots and Yom tags. Georgia is pushing for the 95db now...as the writing is vague on offending noise and open to interpretation by too many variables. As long as the playing field is leveled....hobbyists such as we will fall into compliance for the most part. Always a few radicals about.

can't tell ya of a shop...I am used to playing WHERE'S WALDO ?

that sounds like a good argument for a car to have louder exhaust as they are the larger moving object capable of much damage......(see where this is going don't you) also that is the why for all the other gizmos and gadgets encroachment alarms and what not...and in another sense dumbing drivers down to the point they are not as alert drivers as the car is doing making all perception predictions.