Plymouthy Adams

RCrombie....I always pictured that style sync tools as needing velocity stacks to put it in use...on a carb with a choke blade etc...air horn post for filter....would render it unusable...

that is what happens when you leave the dang door open............!

if you have multi carbs you need to sync...some say not needed.....(physics must not apply on their planet) some guess...some go by the hiss tube method....but a true balance will need a measured flow value...one such guy swore his set up does not get any better till I used the uni-sync. He thought his engine ran good till he drove his car after I did the balance. The uni-sync tool is very handy cost effective device to own. Often an adapter may be need depending on the carb opening size and shape and if or if not you have a air cleaner mount stem sticking out of it...I just made an adapter for the SU H4's I will balance likely this weekend. Just an item made by myself to show it is not difficult.....buying an adapter it is often difficult to locate one...so you created to meet your needs. (spider sold separately) the H4's have a filter mount post sticking up about 3.5 inches...

good deal....I like it that a person takes a minute to detail out an item or area.......can't handle cut corners......in that second picture....that is a lot of engine for that car sitting behind it don't you think?

not sure of how much you backset the engine...if none you will be as shown right on the cross member...setting back a couple inches as I did I still had to use the button filter and notch the frame here for the bit of clearance needed. The angle of your picture does not show your clearance at this point of the install. Even the angle of my picture does not really show the notch......

not sure if anyone noticed but he has been absent for a couple months now....anyone know his status....thanks...

these old cars are not necessarily flawed design....just an earlier one and at the time they were top line....but as we run the cars harder in more traffic and contend with other idiots out and about....the margin for safety is thin and while there is not a need to upgrade IF you keep your stock at peak performance....the overall ease of maintenance, as Sniper said the cost and availability for an improved system has merit. Loose a shoe 300 miles from home and or blow a cylinder......you pretty much stuck a bit unless you carry spares or top line towing on a road service policy. I have my disc on standby for when the time comes to service mine...until then...these are good....I rarely am in traffic. I will fault no one for keeping it stock anymore than I will for those that upgrade.....I find fault with those that try to push their philosophy on others as being the absolute method...

with Indiana being fairly flatland....the 3:55 would be a good choice.....the 3:27 would like be needed a bit of clutch feathering. Your driving habits will also be part of this...if you rather heavy on the foot on takeoff....you may want to keep what you have....terrain of operation and driving habit only you can rightly decide what is best.....as for the year Explorer...sorry others will pop in for that maybe as I still work with Mopar retrofits...and don't ask which Mopar as these are a bit beyond stock retros.

I am beginning to see that I am not near alone with this...I do not think it is anywhere related to old age as much as it is to inability to match that last mental image in your mind of the item/tool to the immediate surrounding.....kinda like a bumble bee....when they leave the nest to forage...they fly up, make a circle and get a thermal image and off they go...if you move the nest 20 feet when they arrive back in the evening from forage...they circle about lost as Hogan's goat....they also know their nest should be right there and this triggers their protective mode and they get aggressive....this I have seen in person....I have gotten stung by them but only if I am in/about the nest.

suffering from the GG's....(garage gremlins)

My dad always told me that if you cannot find where you put it, it is the same as not having it......and yes, if the item is available and inexpensive...just buy one and be done....and yes...it does seem to appear shortly thereafter.

the one that kills me is holding onto an item that shows potential use for a project. One day sorting things you chunk this item....the following week a project comes up where this discarded item would have been the cat's meow to make the fix. On building the engine test stand I recently pictured, the cross supports was a pair of predrilled fabricated 1/4 x 2" angle iron section I have had in my possession some 30 years....finally put them to good use. Somewhere down the line you can use this stuff....if you have a means to store it and know where it is stored when needed. Space is often the single reason many do not or cannot keep items on hand for eventual use.

well you could get the idea as this is not where I left it and that if I keep looking maybe I will get lucky and find a second one....!! not recommended but the theory is correct...

Austin America that is.....not a Mopar still just as fun. Test cradle I now have fabricated and rigged....fabricated the cold air and filter set up today allowing me to finalized the common air box for the twin H4 carbs and got it matching paint to engine. Been a process but been fun for the most part.......upper rad hose still not been put on nor the oil line connected to the console. But we getting ever so close.....

you might find you are on the short noose and lower limb alone.....lol Well maintained system....starter bush in good repair...you are operating at the upper threshold limits. Long or frequent starter grinds and you will get some warmth in that 1 size.

with the size 1 cable...there is no margin for the smallest voltage drop.......of course...a well tuned easy to start car with the electrical system checked and cleaned on a regular schedule should not experience a voltage drop.....

that is an occurrence that is in effect an improper condenser value and the result was the pit and hill....the polarity of the coil would see the pit on one side of the contacts for neg and the other for positive ground...this is how it was explained to me in a techie session in a galaxy far far away...

the world's best at losing an item within one minute of having it in my hand...bet that 40% of my shop time is looking for that bolt nut or wrench I JUST had in my hands....this is NOT A CHALLENGE...please do not copy or try to best me...venting frustration....lol

only thing I could suggest is that seeing the only thing you messed with was the points checking for spark...did you short out internally and when removed the cap and such cleared said short or if not short intermittent connection....this I would go back over real close....

sorry I did not reply earlier....to avoid a long long typed narrative....look to the internet for the manner voltage drop tests are done. It is amazingly simple but yet the most effective means of finding issues. I will add that an inductive amp meter is also great diagnostic tool to have on hand.

I agree, if you only wish to be in the ball park, then, batter up! Watch for the curve balls.....?

finding TDC with the aid of a wire in the small hole at the #6 slug is not going to cut it for absolute TDC...the wire is merely a ballpark only. The eye cannot see or detect with accuracy the small change in piston position over the degree changes before and after TDC. You will need a degree wheel and a piston stop device to measure the piston location if you wish to set the pointer and pulley marks to coincide and reflect TDC.

yes...steel is at an all time high and recycle is also at an all time level and I understand this new drive there is yet a deficit in recycle projection. My fabrication cost have gone up a bit but the shop I get materials...I shop off the floor for falloffs and never have to buy full sticks. full stick cost is the only method at three suppliers in the area. So....pay to play but play at your own needs....mix and match materials and walk out a winner every time.

at the initial cost of the above listed kit, they are not extending any love toward you except for the love of your money......the second kit...yeah, more in line with actual basic cost but rest assured they still making money also.....

unless you could plug the exhaust pipe...this larger opening would not allow any significant pressure...the spark plug access will allow you to build pressure on compression.