Plymouthy Adams

I was faced with similar scenario for the Austin build with steel flange header and the aluminum intake. Factory being equal distance both pieces but aftermarket slight variance. I used what is called a YOKE washer and chose for my application those that are common to the Datsun engines of the 260 and other fame. the cupped washers are steel and very thick and could well be a source for you application....the follow is just a quick link to show you the image and where and when or even if you buy is your shopping 'call to' Datsun Exhaust Manifold Yoke Washer Set, 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX, 1970-83, OEM NEW! | eBay

these are set up on a jig...and usually with known true ground surface on the plate....if you had your fly wheel off and surfaced and the cover plate was also truly flat...one could use the assembly with a fabricated plate properly centered and preloaded to adjust the clearance. That will be a lot of IFs to contend with...and if you do not get it right...you will not be happy, chatter will more than not be the results of misaligned unit and early disc failure. Suggest as others....get a newly built clutch and cover and while you at it, get the flywheel dressed....be sure it is ground and not turned. Turning will not remove the hot spots...

if...you are drilling round stock...you really should have a v-block on hand....while not 100% necessary it is 100% better to use a block. Small spring loaded center punch, how did I ever work without one. Small file for a ever so small flat spot is an aid also. Ed's use of predrilled nuts to use as slip over or threading on is a great work save also...would take but a few minutes to create a set of these to have on hand. As with all things, being a bit more proactive reaps big rewards on the other end. I use nuts of different sizes that have been square out with my special square extractors to use to slip over the ends of taps for when you need to chase a hole that you cannot get a tap handle into the area but a socket and ratchet, plenty of room. These I also recommend you have on hand.

many times ones must buy what is available, often in a longer length, cut to required length....drilling a bolt for a cotter pin is elementary level shop stuff GIVEN you have a drill press. There is so much a bit of common shop work will enable you to get accomplished.

As so with my 51 and the 52 Plymouths

ah, you can do it with a pinky ring in your nose a piece of thread....I'll let you do the math on the length of that lever...!

hard to go wrong stocking up on hardware and other shop dry goods. I took the advice of a car forum and ordered the part they say works...that is a great big negative....so I went to the machine shop in the next town over and came home with some nylon round stock and will be out in my little machine shop making a few of these special bushings. Original bushes were felt lined metal sleeves, these are no longer available. When the felt is gone it sounds like machine gun fire from the floorboard due to the rattling of the rack and pinion shaft on the passenger side hitting the now exposed sleeve. One would think that with over 2.6 million of these cars made one could find a part or so...not eve the UK e-bay is your friend. So you make it your self or live with the rattle. parts house list stuff by dimension....OD of 2.000 or 50.8mm....ordered two in...both are 2.0065 or 50.96mm...the manager has ordered three more examples from other makers to check the specs. They trying to help out.

I agree and this really started back about the mid 70's. The push was at that time to drop from the larger full size car to the more economical sized car and resulting smaller engines while demanding the same level of comfort and land yacht ride.....

I agree and as we are on the forum and not able to put hands or eyes on the problem best techniques to locate the problem is all we have and I prefer not to guess when a quick proven test can easily be done. This is the very reason in my first reply for the two test I ask him to make that WILL answer the question of power in both modes...actually in place or in place and being starved...also others did reply similar but used jumper wires and such for their quick test...the objective is to learn what is missing and why....the fix will rely on those finding. The level of fix will be based on the money he wishes to spend for new parts or go the shortcut jury rig and just get it running for now. Many folks arrive at the same destination, some go over the mountain, some around the graded passes that switch back and forth and then we have those that immediately start digging a tunnel.

While there are yet other ways to do this I answer based on the stated want of the Cavilier rack.... The Caviler rack you have to choose only one of the two options....power or manual. On the column...do you wish to retain the look and spear of death or modify and keep a bit of both, original look inside with new lower collapsing shaft. This will be your call...big safety item...do it right either way you go. The slight offset of the V8 with the A body exhaust manifold is doable with room for the steering now provided. You next biggest challenge is working the inner fenders, if you wish to retain your battery in the engine compartment even a redesign of the actual brace comes into play here. While you firewall will need no mod, your forward advancement of the radiator will possibily require some hood latch post trim and weld and if you go with AC and the condenser this is now a necessity.

big big difference in tires for show and tires for GO....old molds and old techiques does not make the tire anything but new...not better, not quality, in no manner improved, just basically NEW. For the trailer queen and many show/parade cars...this more than suits the bill for the build, just got to look right. This has always been a factor in the hobby, which tires for the look and which tires perform. Many will never show the car for points and I see the trade off for looks as poor choice when safety and performance is so lacking. This is why such stores as Diamondback and the White Wall Candy store exists...the come very close to meeting both performance and looks. Price, compared to a car that does not roll true and one that will, the difference is so little money I could never see old technology on a car rolling the modern highway at speed just to have the right square edge on the tread.

guess it is a manner of how posts are read, when he states 'fact' he has power on the coil I would say he did read that voltage so I accredited him with some troubleshooting technique. As he also stated it wants to fire when key released from start position and returns to run circuit, that for this to happen it is also obvious the points are opening and closing to get that spark. Based on this the issue is wrong wiring or excessive current drain in start, this is where the man needs to split the issue and proceed with further troubleshooting. Your 51 as wired (starter switch change mentioned here by you) when you got it being hosed wiring is one of the reasons I often say some folks should not be allowed to own an old car much less work on one due to their inexperience or basic skills are lacking and the car suffers from such poor maintenance. Often it is a jury rig meant to get the car running and nevers gets revisited as wha-la the car is now running. Folks just cut way too many corners in the repair of items and it will bite them in the butt later or either they flip the car and move on letting the new owner bare the brunt of proper fixes and clean up their mess. Our reading the same post in two different perspectives in back and forth comments is not helping this man with his current situation...right now he is armed with a number of valid responses that should help him move forward and therein the ball is in his court...he now must decide if he wants to dribble or run with the ball.

he makes mention of the voltage to the coil in run...the man states when it does seem to fire it is when he releases the key from start position....we start out with a bit of credit to the PO for setting points even if later we may have been wrong in doing so...

check to see why you losing power in the start position...may have the wire on the wrong terminal of the ignition switch....OR you flat out pulling all your reserve current with the starter motor due to bad bush or voltage drops. Do a voltage drop test and current draw on the starter system if you find the wiring is correct...You can verify power to the coil in start by disconnecting the lead to the starter and removing possible high current drain.

I am just a bit south of you in Middle Georgia and the past couple days one could not ask for better temps....shirts sleeve temps all day long and just cool enough when the sun goes down to truly enjoy a relaxing fire in the pit on the patio....But...all good things must come to an end.....the rain started about 10 minutes ago. However, no arguments from me, we can sure use the rain. As another side note, I just picked some more vine ripened tomatoes this evening from the garden. Enjoy the day...as they are numbered.

SC's Piedmont region is flat out beautiful country.....little trip to the top of Caesar's Head will let you know you having fun....my favorite place in the southeast is Table Rock State Park...have done every trail, many of them more than once, most three or more times. Get a chance to cruise Highway 11....I do not think you will be disappointed.

go Greyhound and leave the delivery to them.....a certain place that sells nuts and bolts offer a similar service but be prepared to pay way more than about any other mode of transport and PAY super close attention to their package requirements to protect your purchase.

just for giggles...how much weight is on each tire and don't forget to look at the inside of the rim for weight placement....

I believe a bigger part of the larger wheels also incorporates the same full look wheel well look with the lower profile tire to eliminate the sidewall flex and put the better handling back into the car to offer performance at a much lower cost to them and ultimately the buying public. I have 12.1 rotors on my Plymouth, it also has ABS brakes...and the idea was to use the 16" alloys factory Mopar wheels long before the brakes were ever installed. I set out with an end build in mind and that is the course I stayed.

no....just mods in general....well thought out and executed modification of all sorts working with safety and maintainability in mind, that is main concern over if or if not stock.

a conversion is no worse than attempting the repair of the stock system without the correct tools to do that job. Done right with forethought taken before spending the money, inspection and mock up before the modification is as paramount as securing the right tools for stock. Most all mods have a trade off and you need to study these for I assure you the guy marketing an item will be hesitant to advertise the fact that you will require modern wheels. Many folks are then either having to back up to stock or lose their wheels, often expensive WWWs and the very hub caps that define the car. Asking after the fact does little to help except to point out you going to be deep in your pockets again for the fix. Many do the conversion and cause gain pain to the purists for what reason it bothers them I cannot figure out as they have no stock or say in another man's project. But I will say first off that not every person has access to the proper tools for the original brakes as they are very specific on setup. That same person may also not have any shop in his area with the proper tools. Reading some of the threads posted just this week is a nightmare come true on farming out your cars for repair work. It appears they did nothing right....risk you take farming out. As for one kit over another....bolt in verse tap a hole....if you cannot tap a hole, you should not be working on a brake system at all is my opinion....that and a 1.50 will get you a small coffee most places.

sounds like you are experiencing the early stage of radial belt shift....brand and age factors may apply. Cross rotation does not do a radial any favors regardless of what a tire salesman tells you...remember, he eats only if he sells new tires.

You probably were one of the lucky ones that even got their car back.... Certain other forum has a shop closing its doors in the middle of a number of car restorations to the tune of HEY DUDE, WHERE'S MY CAR

did not use Jeep, used a Dakota on more than one occasion....you know the front cable will connect to the sock vintage handles....or lets just say on the cars they do...

a proper and factory display of stamping ...the letter I is the number 1 and the stars are definitely in place and all is pretty much dress-right-dress...I will not even try to entertain the why and wherefore of the OP's engine pad and manner it was stamped