Plymouthy Adams

well made manifold utilizing multi carbs will have a balance tube and as such this condition does not exist....even without the balance tube the condition is not a problem but a more delicate process to balance is all...

of the many multi carb cycles I have experienced do not use a log....the better webers say dual and triple in duals and triplets are basically common shaft unit only....these are so easily balanced off the engine it is not funny

there are different style webers...to me and my opinion only is that anything progressive in the weber line is a headache.....do not care for them...do not buy them...

cycle carbs...multi carbs single manifold PLATE....each carb dedicated and the common air box...where is the air currents?

it's been done.....but not as effective on the larger car engines.....this is where the larger side drafts designed for cars are the better players...

those speed nuts can be had at about any hardware store in the little boxes with slide out trays.....most stores have carry this line of small stuff...

aren't these bugs called cockroaches??

the engines are worth what you willing to put into them....they are not high cost cores/runner...but add some goodies and the prices rise fast....performance return way less than dollars spent....but most build them to reflect the period so cost often is overlooked by the serious builder.

Have you read your manual on the operation of the brakes and the importance of centering the shoes to the drum...the anchors and cams is a balancing act for proper centering and maintaining the air gap heel and toe...and this balancing act is to the tune of .006 less than the diameter of your drum. These shoes DO NOT float and centric alignment is up to the person do the maintenance.

a link to the prior thread if you have it would prevent a lot of back and forth tit for tat.

the wider berth is because they more than not seen some of the workmanship on some of these older cars...while I will not say that is the norm for folks of this forum but honestly, you know what I am taking about if you have ever been to some of the local gatherings...everything above is well said and should be taken to heart....not only in seat belt install, but in every aspect of the repair/regeneration of an older vehicle.

while not a fan of chopped cars either......good luck with your proposed built...hope it turns out to be what you want...Many folks chop these to the point they slouch in the seat with the steering wheel in their chest neck also in their chest and eyes looking up, looks goofing to viewer as they drive this way as I see it anyway.......maybe check out a local show with a similar chop and ask if you can see if it is comfortable. In a chopped top the dash, seat and such usually does not change, you lose the headroom and the upper portion of the glass to see through...the dash is often an unavoidable issue.

while not ticklers in line with an Amal carb this may be your reference to pushing an item on the carb....the SU have a built in push up pin that lifts the slide...this is used when tuning to ensure the idle mixture is correct as this slight lift will alter the RPM slightly if RPM goes up or down you adjust the base line setting of the jet accordingly.

thanks for the question, the answer is neither....the choke operate on pulling the fuel jets away from the needles thus enrichening the mix....SU carbs are very simple but also very efficient carbs...you get a chance to mess with them or have a minute to read up on them...you would like the design I am sure. How is the little red car coming along?

speaking of summed up and sticking stuff....I took a Facet fuel pump apart the other night...first one I seen that did not work. I figured I had nothing to lose so put wrench on the big nut to the inlet...unscrewed.....excellent I said...the inlet valve was shellacked up so cleaned it.. tested, nothing....so unscrewed the other side...ah ha...the piston was shellacked up pretty badly also....little soaking in solvent...freed up...back on the car. The pump is nicely made for servicing much to my surprise with an o-ring seal on the inlet....these are good pumps....this one had the wrong fuel to sit...now where have we seen that before? I have 4 of these NOS in box 5-7 lb but the SU carbs suggest 1.5 - 4 lb pumps and that was the last one of them in captivity.

while not familiar with this exact engine.....most motor cycles have covers/caps for valve access and adjust....suggest this be pulled and inspected for sticking/stuck valve....on a multi cylinder engine....for sure one valves will be exposed to atmosphere when parked.....hopefully just a bit of lube and human intervention will persuade it free and running the engine afterwards will free and lube as needed.

I found that I just need a nice straight road to get to 88 MPH....the rest is either future or history.....!!!

you can continue the march....but you will need to be creative on the front radiator panel and move the rad forward into the grille...be advised the latch support will require a total mod here....the inner fenders will require lots of massaging...the disc retrofit is probably your first mod....locking you in so to speak...the shock relocation should be your second mod and the third mod the install of the TRW rack and pinion.....from there you will make your own engine mounts and tranny cross member....you will more than not be changing the oil pan, oil pickup and suggest center dump truck manifolds and the late model small foot print starter. You will be yet with any advice from those who have gone before on your own for putting it all together.....it is a worth while project....just not a plug and play by an sense of the word.

yeah, I have only done a couple......basically you are on your own...each person builds to their own level using what they can retrofit and fabricate or modify...very little available for a bolt in play by play process....if you familiar with the LA engine...you should know you have a number of manifold options, I did not massage the firewall other than for AC pass through on one, none on the other and total donor firewall on the third...I recommend a donor firewall if you want this level of interaction...but of course I also got rid of the silly frame that is stock.....that is a nightmare to work with and cost more to tweak than to replace. If you keeping the original frame rails, you just bought into a long and costly process. Front suspension run about 250.00 with power R&P, disc brakes, sway bar, better shocks and V8 mounts all MoPar but be advised...you will move these mounts rearward. If you doing your own work you will need time space and tools with access to more time space and tools than you probably have on hand. Anyway.....its a fun build, very involved...you can usually do the frame in a weekend from body off....modified to body back on including the dressing and painting of the frame...the small stuff is what eats you time, brain and steals your lunch money.

thanks Los, while not a Plymouth....just the same a lot of work goes into any and all of them....I put off starting the engine in the car and instead mowed the east and west orchard and the front lawn....that is about 4.0 hours of steady mowing on a zero turn...grass still a very pretty green once I mulched the leaves....

few more gains but will have to cut it off here with the swap meet just around the corner and company on the way......these dog bone stabilizers are not found on the average car....only a single lower bone with the automatic tranny cars.....floor pans are very solid...the tunnel will get a bit of attention before the exhaust goes into place....

many folks don't realize the OD has a separate oil fill plug for service and checking

Little Caesar is a good pizza for the buck.....when coming back from Atlanta the other day I stopped by the store for milk and OJ...told mums if she wanted, call in a pizza at Lil Caesars.....9 times she called...9 times no one picked up.....came home and broke out a starter pizza, loaded it with topping and fresh veggies from the garden....much better pizza but mums had to get involved....was trying to give her a break....town looks dead in this photo.....

when modernizing one is attuned to the needs of the newer requirements.....while on stock application you would think you were getting the correct parts....causes not only delays but frustration as many folks time to play with the toys is limited...

asking is not necessarily getting.....case in point...hood emblem for a certain car I have one is for sale NOS at 1600.00 + dollars......has been listed for over three years....while you and I know this is crazy off the wall....some day a restorer may pull the trigger and snap it up.....the seller only needs one buyer....and yes they not making these anymore either and the sources are slim....getting slimmer