FIELD TEST DAY ONE
Okay I have done some tests and here are the results. I will also explain how some of the wiring is set up as of right now and while the tests were done.
1) First suggestion was by 'Plymouthy Adams' who started with "Do a voltage drop test and current draw on the starter system."
- I got the digital multi meter out and tested the voltage at the terminal on the starter. With the key off and also when the key was switched to on there was 0volts, when the key was engaged to start and the engine was cranking there was 5.1v and decreased to 4.8v within 5 seconds as the engine continued to crank. (also just to note, there's a battery charger connected to the battery during all these tests).
- I did not disconnect the main lead to the starter and do the voltage tests with the starter not connected to the system. If this was a mistake and I should also test this let me know.
2) Second suggestion was by 'Sniper' who said "Use a meter to verify voltage to the coil in crank."
- Took the meter back out and tested voltage at the negative (-) terminal on the coil. The terminal had 0volts when the key was in the off position, when the key was turned to the on position it read 6volts, and when the key was engaged to start and the engine was cranking the (-) negative terminal on the coil died to .1volts.
- I continued with voltage tests on the coil and tested the positive (+) as well. When the key was in the off position it read 0volts, when the key was switched to the on position it read .1 volts climbed to .2 volts as the key sat for 5 seconds in that position. When the key was engaged to start and the engine was cranking the (+) terminal on the coil read 0volts.
- I would also like to add that I can confirm the points are opening and closing and at the correct gap. I have also done a light test to see if the light would turn on and off as the points opened and closed and the light did not power on at all unless the engine would stop cranking over and happened to land on a spot when the points were closed, which goes back to my OP about only seeing a spark when the key is switched to the on position (and points closed) and when you let off the key an it goes back to the on position (and the points by chance happen to stop in a closed position).
3) There was multiple mentions about possible wiring problems, so I figured I would let you know how it is wired currently and while performing these tests.
- The wire that is on the ST post of the Ignition Switch leads to the smaller top post of the Starter Solenoid.
- The wire that is connected to the ACC on the Ignition Switch goes to the (-) negative side of the coil.
- A Wire which is connected to the (-) Negative side of the Coil is connected to the bottom left (I) post of the Horn Relay.
- The wire that is on the (X) post on the Flasher under the dash also goes to the (-) negative terminal on the Coil.
- The (+) positive terminal of the Coil goes to the post on the distributor which I believe internally is wired with the points.
4) I have also earlier before I made my OP have tested each post on the Ignition switch for voltage and all posts appear to be functioning as and when intended.
- This is a Father/Son project, we are not mechanics, but we are also not hopeless. So with the guidance and knowledge of all of you guys we are confident we can make progress. If any photos or videos are needed for aid in diagnosis let me know and I can include some. Thanks again for your help.
I have gone back out to the Plymouth and I have done as you have mentioned. I tested to see if the ignition switch was bad by Jumping a wire from the negative on the battery to the negative on the coil and It is now producing a spark at all plugs. I have used an inline spark test light on all plugs and all had spark now. So now I believe I will pull out the OG Ignition Switch and see if I can repair it, or worst case buy a new one to replace it. Then begins the final timing adjustments. Thanks Sniper for the assist on the solution to the no spark at the plugs problem.