Plymouthy Adams

that last picture shows the truck flipped onto its back....got to be easier.....lol

This was the entrance into the commissary on base....stacked cases of soda make up the display.....

3.5 to 5 lbs, I personally like the Facet cube and mounted on isolation rubber stands...they are very quiet...you may here it as it builds pressure but once at pressure the effective hammer is all but gone. Many styles and pressures out there to choose from....I have never had a low pressure Facet cube fail to perform even with multiple carbs as they do pump fuel at a goodly rate. I have them here with zero issue after 30+ years installed. Your call, the Facet, Purolator and Carter pumps of this style are moderately priced...you can find cheaper cubes on the internet but I cannot speak for them.

I covered that also but again, the offset is also an imaginary line that stays parallel to the engine and tranny.....with setting an engine and tranny...it may need be offset of center..establish the centerline and mark...adhere to the centerline equally in that offset. As the rear axle is often offset you pretty much locked into the parallel by the mounting points of the leaf springs. DO VERIFY your frame for square to prevent dog legging. In the rear, again if not establishing new leaf spring frame mounts you need to concern yourself with the location of the perches to center the wheels to frame left and right...the offset of the pinion will remain parallel.

this is similar to the setup I used at one place I worked moons ago. Ample size for working carbs such as these.....cleaned and rebuild these carbs after setting idle many years...balanced them on the bench and let the big dog eat...bolt on ran great.

not making fun of a tragic event, but there was this guy who went to the doctor as he had his arm broken in 4 places, doctor told him to avoid them places in the future. Tough break guy, no pun intended.

If a carb is showing signs of oxidation I use a 55% phosphoric rinse...it quickly and safely reacts with the oxidation and leaves the base metal clean and if pitted it is chemically treated for prtection against further oxidation. NOW...aluminum and other non ferrous metal carry cautions when using the phosphoric and thus you will not want to dip the parts for any length of time. Works great, just use a bit of common sense when using the product. You can use lower strength dilutions and up the time you have for scrubbing with wire brushes, scuffy pads or other items in your inventory. DO rinse very well flushing with clear water and blow all passages with compressed air, I like to then spray passages and inner surfaces with WD40 and then again spray the excess. Ultrasonic cleaners are fantastic, however I realized many do not have a unit suitable sized for carbs....ultrasonic cleaning is most effective with de-gassed water. I do miss my access to the super larger ultrasonic cleaner with second stage tank for rinsing and the third stage compartment for heated force air drying.

yes, the trans/eng is angled down at the rear of the tranny....(be careful if reading some phasing instructions off an internet white paper as they show both angles as up DUE TO the fact they are measuring at the front of the engine and not the rear...their math can confuse you a bit.) The rear should point up at an angle that the imaginary lines will be parallel if drawn through the centerline of the eng/trans and the pinion of the carrier. The angle of your driveshaft you wish to keep in X range of angle as this will limit your driveshaft speed if too great, unless you are lifting a vehicle as most 4WD trucks or offroading vehicles do etc, you should fall into range without much concern here. Also many recommend a slight difference in static angle of the pinion to be 1* less than the tranny so when under power/load the pinion will normally rise a degree or so and be in phase under power. On offset of rear axle, which many are, the phase is also correct when these imaginary lines are parallel so do not overlook this when phasing. As you are not resetting your engine and tranny, you only have to ensure the pinion is matching your original angle/offset...as many engines are places just off centerline in the chassis, the pinion offset is established and will be in phase by location of the perches when setting on the leaf spring, you just need to ensure the track is centered. This is general info and you may wish to consult a well written white paper for the working limits (speed) as related to angles.

I have a packing assembly using the grease gun, if I were to do this daily I would see the advantage, for the so few times I have need to repack bearings, still prefer hand method and as stated, if you don't like grease on you, wear gloves. Don't forget to take a bit of wasted grease to wipe your steering stops.

your GGW 6001 is listed in my Plymouth repair manual as correct.

As an update now that the task is complete I wrote a small narrative and a few pictures if case anyone may wish to use this technique affixing the castle nut over those aforementioned in the instructions supplied. If Charlie updates his instructions, he says this method will be shown also. But for now, I will post it here. Just another means to an end and your decision to use any suggested method. SPINDLE UPGRADE EARLY MOPAR This is the second part of the spindle mods that is in addition to the drilling and tapping for the mounting of the caliper adapter plate. This will guide you through drilling the spindle for a slot for use of the later rotors without need to modify or change either the backing washer or the spindle castle nuts. This can affect your return to stock but then, so does drilling and tapping the spindle for the caliper plate. Make your own call before proceeding. The spindle can be drilled as follows as yet another tweak for the Rustyhope kit or those that have ripped off and selling his design and parts list as their own. First run the nut on backwards beyond the original hole. Insert a drill bit into the original hole and lightly lock the bit in place with the castle nut. Now drill a starter hole using short flute stronger starter bit using the keyway as a guide, suggest to center punch this to assure the bit will not walk. Drill the hole using the bit as a back stop and if you wish, you can use the second castle nut, also on backward as further support/guide to allow you to see your bit at work and help ensure a straight drilled hole. You can drill all the way through from the top or you can do this from the top and bottom of the spindle by center punching from below using the castle nut slot again as a guide. The center of the spindle here was hollow near the outer edge of the new hole with my stock spindles and as such I found my drill bit wanting to deflect following the taper at this center bore, so I found drilling to the center from the top and then from the bottom side of the spindle the easier task, prevents bit deflection from the taper of the center bore should your spindle be like mine. Once the pilot hole is drilled you can enlarge to that of the original hole and by angling your bit, you can drill the middle of the two bores to create the slot. This was just a few minutes per spindle to make this mod. Original castle nut and washer is retained with no cuts or modifications to washer or nut needed, the spindle with new cut slot is now prepped and the wheel bearings thus are totally adjustable and the cotter pin will cleanly and neatly lock the nut in place. Below, a few pictures to assist you with the task. added note, do carefully clean the new holes, spindle counter bore and thread area of drill chips.

I was just walking through my local tractor supply company yesterday and noticed that they had in stock and on the shelf a battery hold down that may be worth looking into for those in need and have a TSC or similar stores nearby. This was hanging in their old tractor supply parts isle. Looked so similar to the one in above photo.

Charlie is still selling kits, as are a few other people/companies and of course some prefer one over the others which is typical. His design and parts list has been appropriated by other sellers by copying his plate and parts list. No kit I have read about here was without an issue or two raised here on the forum by installers, but none were to a point the task to resolve was over the top or way out of hand. Some were never addressed in terms of a fix either by the seller so be careful there and always ask before buying. Reading here will bring up these points on each kit so you can be informed. Charlie's kit does require a bit of human intervention and to that end each user must evaluate their capabilities to do the drilling and tapping to complete the install. It is this feature that makes his kits very affordable. Charlie is always there with tech support. I have never seen him let a buyer flounder about and the few cases you read about, the buyer had not even contacted for support when he hit a snag. These kits vary mainly in what you can or are willing to take on as an at home DIYer. The drilling and tapping I found most easily done on car also and the need to disassemble will be the call of the installer based on abilities and tools and experience doing similar tasks. The shopping market out there is sometimes filled with choices and sometimes not so much of a choice. Many can be very costly while others as bargain basement one can hope to find. It is good to have choices as many do not have the time, tools, space or patience to do the added steps done in a machine shop verse those kits supplied bolt on by others. You paying up front for this in their kit.

Thanks, hope this does help you out, this was not or ever intended written to be a HOW TO in the sense everyone should do it this way, it is however a HOW DID as it was just my approach and the manner I collected parts, fabricated the brackets and married the old with the newer. I like many have upgraded my car interior to a nice carpet and the last thing I wish to be doing is pulling it back to check fluid level or add fluid as the components wear with accumulated mileage and a master with integral reservoir was not what I wanted as even with the kit or devised adapter for lines for a remote is just to close to the floor pan and requires the floor access. This eliminated that completely and while my lines are close to the floor pan, they are not required routine serviceable items. Even before this upgrade my stock master I converted to remote fill and thus never had a need to service at the floor fill. IF you intend to mount similar fashion, do ensure your bracket at the master mount faceplate is fully gusseted at the rear which is not obvious in the picture but totally needed for strength and peace of mind.

The adaptation of a newer master and the selection of that master will be your call, I used last generation Dakota. Do as I did and go on walkabout at your local wrecking yard you may find something that you prefer. I do so hate making this a suggested unit as like poor ole Charlie who got slammed for his kits when folks who buy them for install have little to zero skills at resolving such simple issues as a castle nut and whine and moan. On just installing the rustyhope caliper plates, my castle nut issue was such a simple resolve and no cuts to the castle nut and still using stock backing washer. Purposely falling off a log would be a harder task to perform. You can get the very valve kits from some of the rodding shops sell for much higher money off e-bay by shopping around for about 42.00 portioning valve and the two residuals delivered to your door. You may entail comingling of flare seats with your modern donor master so be sure to check the seats in master and if more prevalent ball style verse inverted flare, get the two short lines that attach to the master so you can flare the one end to that of the inverted flare common to older car and the residual valves. Often one line is a course thread and one is fine to prevent you from mixing the primary with the secondary. Some of the masters are stamped with bore size and P for primary outlet (front) and S for secondary outlet (rear). Plumbing the donor master for remote lines is with use of sweat fittings and copper tubing. Swaging will come into play, stock swage fitting in a kit will not do the task, get creative here, I used a barbed hose nipple for the small amount of flare needed for inserting the fitting into the tube. Seating the fitting and making a retainer plate for the new fabricated adapters and I suggest two slots at the bottom in line with the fill holes of the master internal bore and do clean the ends of your tubing from burrs and other trash/residue. Routing of the remote fill lines I suggest Adel clamps or similar to keep these dressed and out of way of other items affixed in the area. The reservoir can be had for 15.00 delivered to your door if you shop wisely on e-bay. The EPDM rubber can be had at some of the local supply houses, most auto parts stores and online want 3.50 to 7.50 a foot. Ten foot roll which is plenty is only 14.20 with tax locally. Do your own shopping as I have no clue the stores in your area. But as a hint, many stores in my area gouge as they have so little competition. You will be making a bracket also for the remote reservoir, this can be out of lighter metal as there is so little weight involved and no stresses applied. This may sound a bit vague but if anyone is the least bit creative and understand the mechanical and principal two unit cannot occupy the same space....you should have no issues. Time, well it will take a bit to fabricate the brackets, adapters and rod extension and assemble/sweat the fittings for the nipples. None of this is hard, none is really expensive, even a new master can be had for 46.00 verse my cost of 10.00 from a sealed and working brake system in the wrecking yard. I chose the wrecking yard unit over a new as this was all experimental and different to the normal manner and means referenced by most our forum members and while I do not mind spending money, I do not like wasting it while doing mockup. Again, your call, lack of success is based mainly on lack of imagination and initiative, failure to see the obvious little confidence in one's self to adapt and overcome.

The fabrication of a bracket is not that hard to do but does involve at minimum some fabrication which require metal cutting tools, welder and a plus is a drill press. If you do not have these or access to these buying a kit will likely be to your advantage. When doing this, at least to my thinking and manner of upgrade, I would consider a true remote reservoir and never use a master with a built in reservoir as this always tacks on additional costs out of pocket for that relocation kit. Your call as to what you wish to do, buy the kit or roll your own. Just did this task and cost was approx 85.00 with master, residuals, proportioning and aftermarket reservoir and EPDM rubber hose to connect the remote to the master. Some metal falloff used I had lying about as was some copper sweat fitting.

love how that old Dodge is pushing that newer one with a chain....(I see what I want to see...)

can't hide money.....!!!! ?

scarred battle wagon for sure....wonder if these are from her "learning to drive"

blast from the past, while going through some of the family photos, lo and behold a picture of my 59 Plymouth Suburban.....to have that today....would be fantastic...

seems there are rat droppings everywhere you go these days.....?

The industry is in flux as always but more focused today. The old American cars are not the only ones with changes being made. Thread cutting for metric and SAE involve many gear sets and now the trend is to standardize the industry especially in tooling drastically reducing production cost and change over setup requirements. While in many cases the flare fitting of the standard brake lines remains unchanged along with the threads on the bleeding nipple also the same, the move to make the bleeder metric when it comes time to wrenching is for sure changing at least in repair kits. I recently got new kits for the British calipers that included both SAE and Metric threads for the bleeder nipple as the main features of the caliper go unchanged in bore and piston, the machining of new castings being made are slanted toward metric and why there is the second set of bleeders in the kit, both require metric wrenches. My units are still some 57 years of age I cannot speak if the new remade casting will have metric threaded line fitting. I would not discount this as such but would cause much aggrivation in the hobby from owner now required to renew lines or purchase adapters. I cannot speak of the last decade of cars as I have not futzed much with brakes here, but the decade before is still standard SAE threads while fasteners are metric. I am not sure if and when or maybe already done for the fluid line going metric across the common US makers as everything is going world class/global. I will say the parts industry will be servicing both with fitting and across the counter lines for decades to come yet as they have for the decades that have passed. I can say this much, as to Brit cars, I'd rather embrace the metric over much of the BSW and other off the wall sizes they are known for. One line of manufacturing that should have been standardized many decades ago.

the 10 are needed if you are going to run the trim (beauty) ring, if not...the 9" will do just as well....both have the same internal size for locking onto the rim The 9 inch will not cover and dress the beauty ring.

cats only purpose in life is to host ringworms....?

I knew I had his name spelled wrong......lol Your car looks good in the photo, sadly while the vinyl tops looked sharp they hid a multitude of sins and allowed rust to form and when actually would be visible, you in for some serious repairs, then add the flipper and the cure-all bondo...you get a bigger surprise a short time later. I think most of us sported slightly darker hair at that age.