Plymouthy Adams

looks spiffy enough for the asking price

your experience mirrors the last one I am familar with in person....happened to a fellow forum member that is local to me....he called me for guidance...he actually at the time had not discovered the oil pump had siezed....that was found immediately when I got there...first go to item.

the ones I have seen and have described are mechanical locked up, sometimes it is trash in between the rotors....others is a mechanical seizure to poor tolerancing of the machined parts and lack of lube due to this. Some unknown as have to be returned unmolested for warranty.

you can easily inspect the cam gear through the oil pump hole and dropping the pan could well be prudent...the likelihood of a broken tooth entering the oil pickup with the screen in place very slim. Odds are you know the tooth count missing, a magnet could likely retrieve these through the drain plug. Any broken remains of teeth compared to the portion missing from the gear on the pump. And, at having another issue spring forth (no pun) you may wish to take a minute to compose before tackling. Not suggesting alcohol mind ya, coffee works well for me, but a bit of the hair of the dog may be in order...don't consume the whole dog.

the pump gears are designed to shear in this case and the cam teeth are not...they very robust.....this is also not uncommon....have seen the very thing you have experienced....even with priming the pump this can happen and am sure nothing you did inasmuch as lube.....now as in the last case I was involved in, the pump was warrantied and thus I was not able to open the pump to see if it ingested anything that aided in the locking of the pump....had to return the pump unmolested. As an added, ensure the cam gear has no broken teeth still in the cam gears...this would be an instant repeat of sheared gears.

your 1954 model being an automatic and 230 is not covered in the 1954 shop manual and the data you will need will be that of the 1955 model year.. If you lucky you can find a few bulletins on the tranny, power brakes and power steering for the model year also...but then again, will be in the 1955 book. The auto and 230 was a mid year introduction.

it truly is....and this I am sure was a distracted driver....however there is no excuse at the age of 50 not stopping the render aide or at minimum call 911 and am sure he was aware you are not to hit and run. He had a cold calculated plan to exit the scene of the crime however showing no remorse for his actions but only to try and save his sorry butt. I am sure the next step if not already put in play by him was to report the car stolen and he just discovered that fact. Action, arrested, bail denied. Road rage incidents of increasing violence is on the rise in our area as I read the news the few times I do (gets me riled) and well, this is becoming ever so common everywhere. My grandson was hit and run inside a state park on a bicycle path no less by a couple estimated to be mid 60's who was on a powered ATV not supposed to be on the bike path....taken to the hospital by helicopter the couple broke camp and disappeared and not found to this date. Personally I do not think the police care enough to follow any leads...after all, all entrances in the park is recorded. Again, the sorry state of humanity these days.

a local gentleman (76) was fatally hit and run just a few miles from my house. Have seen him out and about many times, always rode on the very shoulder of the road. This is not an isolated incident and why I have been out so few times on my bike in recent past as these incidents is on the rise as is driver rage toward bike riders. The guy who hit him had the time and forethought to stop, remove the bike embedded into his grille and chunk it to the side of the road, drive off about a mile and abandon the car, am sure if failed to proceed as it looked like it rammed a phone pole dead center, after abandoning the car, then proceeded away from the car and further from the scene and any help nearby and was located only with the assistance of a tracking K-9....I passed by the car parked along the road abandoned before I saw the scene of the accident and told the wife how odd the wrecked car and no sign of an accident there. There were zero skid marks, the bike was well ahead of the point of impact when tossed. Sad day...!

added caster will increase the effort to steer.....one learns to turn the steering as the wheel is rolling if ever so slowly as an aide..with the added caster and not knowing the tires you run....air pressure change could be bumped a bit...again, have no clue your tire pressures...the older bias balloons loved the lower pressure for the added caster they provided at speed...if modern radial and this added caster....run these at the pressure recommend by maker..

as an update the schroons were very good.....however....I think I still prefer deep fried if but for the even coating verse the sagging of the batter air fried...

cam drives the pump...pump has slot drive for distributor tang....time it as you wish in regard to slot position in this manner of drive set up...when you have established TDC and oreinted the plug wires to the cap you in business.....later if pulled and installed and neglected to check rotor position on pulling...you either on or 180 out. The slot only became to be specifically mentioned to be at 7o'clock in later manuals.

I am in the process of making some air fried mushrooms and they are in the air fryer now.....fingers crossed.....!!!

was wonder if any of the forum members has a copy of the owners manual for a Sun CP7670 Inductive Engine Analyzer While I have no issues working this, it will likely be located when I am long gone and unable to teach an heir how to use it. An owners manual stuck in the back of the machine would prove handy then....

I might ask why many folks buy etching 2K primer.... NOTE...as an added and an apology to Tod for my question back....but there are a ton of white papers one can default to if interested. To go into this would require me to write a paper that is already out there for the looking and reading when found. I will not take that time to write and post such an in-depth reply.

not if you positive ground....the wire to the horn button grounds the relay......

if not and 11 month later the problem exists....well, just not that important would be my summation. ?

seeing as these wires are not stock, but crimp on connectors...any of them could well be a suspect/issue as the appearance of the crimp looks to be from each sind and not a full compression of the lug body with a crisp deep dimple...I make this statement in general as many do not use/own a quality crimping tool say like a Klein...the ones that come in the BBS kits are nowhere up to task of a quality crimp. As for the jumper, good known ground to good ground wired of the head light bucket if jumped to there from the 3 prong or to the 3 prong lead that is ground...

acid is as it states, but to be more direct, this is the application of 55% phosphoric by means of the spray gun onto a large item...the last use was the van box of the Morris Minor LCV I am building. I sprayed the box inside, out and beneath with acid...this was done in two applications. The acid NEVER harms solid metal as it reacts only with oxide...the acid is truly a rust eraser when used properly. I did not really take a lot of pics of this....but here are few before acid...after acid and then the primer...

golden years.....you have advance to the rank of the all metal man.....silver in the hair, gold in your teeth and lead in your a$$

if this condition exists both high beam and low beam...I would first suspect the ground has been compromised when the wire caught the weight of the unit on the fall..use your meter to read this....use a jumper for ground as a quick test....

have a good time, I know you worked hard to get the car ready for the event....post a show picture or two....

ask the kids....they may be crafty enough to figure out a castle nut makes a good bike spoke wrench...

you got what you wanted and did this at home to boot...being most resourceful and I am sure fun and rewarding....

IF you are TDC number one....the rotor button will point to the corresponding distributor cap tower.....if not....then likely you are 180 out. As the question of if and how done by PO and and if you wish...you can at this time easily index the oil pump to match that of the position of orientation in the later manuals. In this manner, the slot of the pump will run 7 o'clock to 1 o'clock as viewed through the distributor mount hole. This is not a must...but if say for instance a shop was required later for repairs...they first thought will be jumped timing as nothing matches the later manuals. Your preference your call...

purchasing a spray gun can be a significant cost but one can limit his outlay a bit by shopping a bit and of course there is always the alternate source, and the spray gun is a 'tool' and so buy the best you can afford and with reasonable care most will last a lifetime. Flea markets, pawn shop, yard sales and the estate sales. One does need to know about certain brand names and be able to recognize the gun in front of him if shopping alternate source. I have a number of quality guns here, mainly Devilbiss, Binks, Sharpe and couple Badger air brushes in the mix. This thread brought up the question, where are all my guns...placed away when I went conventional to HVLP. A number of these quality guns were not properly cleaned and cup had paint residues in them. But most were 3-5 dollars with the lightly used Binks 7, a whopping cost of 10.00 with all the accessories still in the original box and also spare nozzle and cap. I dug them out, 4 were as stated bought and laid aside needing cleaned. I disassemble and deep cleaned 8 of the pictures 13 sprayer the other evening. These all shoot very well. The HF purple is for shooting acid only, bought new at yard sale for 3.00 As with many tools I post of, never overlook the alternate sources as your costs can be much much less out of pocket. An abused gun can be detected visually for the most part and signs of droppage and or use of improper tools/techniques to take apart and such will show immediately. You can invest about an hour if super cleaning is needed and have a quality brand name gun for next to nothing. Paint cups are readily available new in aluminum or plastic and inexpensive if say the cup is really dinged up or beyond reasonable time to clean. As always, these deals rarely drop into your lap as you sit on the couch, but getting out and about, you can easily score. I see good spray guns at pawn shops and flea markets and especially estate sales all the time.