Plymouthy Adams

nah.....you going to have trouble EVERYWHERE with that name....! Ok Mr. Smith follow me back to the station....!

using similar clips and fuzzy, I mounted mine with the cloth down and the metal bead up....works great..

I cannot see any problems given the car is registered and licensed in the US...other than the shear cost of the tow...

was this anywhere near Roswell?

that material has many uses when it comes to isolation mounting...been using it since the late 80's best part is if you are wrapping an electric fuel pump you get isolation with flow through ventilation...

I have never had my hands on the induction heaters for this application....many comments to their effectiveness though....I can well see their usefulness.

there are cheap tires and there are inexpensive tires....some of the cheapest tires cost the most money....hint hint, nod, nudge the inexpensive tire is in this case is the much better value, deep deep rabbit hole that draws many folks ire when stated and hype and name dropping seemingly take first seat...

with all the trouble you had starting this who knows how much oil and other items you introduced into the intake that found its way into the muffler and as you state yourself, are your rings fully seated....

I am a blue wrench fan but I also worked DoD Navy for many years they used wintergreen oil for the rough environment that is metal and salt spray...

yeah, their rendition of a radial was the very fall of Firestone and eventual sale of the company to Bridgestone I think it was. The 721 series...hard rubber tires with little traction...I still swear I could lay 20 feet of rubber in my 1.7 Plymouth Horizon, second gear, with them tires in place.....yeah...they were that bad. The squalliest tires I had ever seen.

also qualifies as a thrill seeker side show at a carnival

like the tires themselves after a good run on the highway, full of hot air......the most memorable tire of the era for me was the Firestone Wide O Ovals....these found their way onto most all makes and models as an aftermarket tire.

IF you decide to again chance a panel from a online metal bender.....DO NOT CUT OUT your old until you have the panel you are buying in your hot little hands....often easier to also conform that panel to your body prior to removal of the bad section....yes your inner rocker often suffers as much if not more than the outer. you era car as will any Briggs body of the era will have damage at the cowl/kickpanel/floor pan, inside under the rear glass if two door that continues to the pan, rear cross brace and into the inner rear fender...the drop in access floor pan at the drivers floor and likely rear trunk corners and maybe even trunk lip damage on the inner stiffener panel. The inner rockers suffer greatly, outer rockers and lower door skin and the body that is behind the door and under the rear window. The door opening at the rear where it curves up also seem to like to rot out. Also sadly the crossties that support the body and tie the rockers left to right take a hit as these are reversed bend of what could have prevented this damage if flipped in production.

amazing the time that often flies by between drives.....this winter was a bit rough for most all in terms of adverse weather conditions....I took one of my cars to the cruise in first of the month and realized it had been 5 months since I did some service to the hydraulic and put it back to bed.

50 Fastback................check your inbox....I posted a few links to some of my step by step pictorials that are already here on the forum....

the car body is layers of steel that are connected usually by the spot welds. To repair, and doing said repair by making your own panels, yes I also suggest smaller segments removed at a time. I also suggest full perimeter welds of the replaced parts. The body on your car is a bit more gone than many in the area of the kick panel, floor and inner rocker and below the quarter light is typical of this year vehicle also. I salvage a 51 Plymouth Suburban that did look very much like your damage. The task is not all that hard but some of the standing on your head to weld will qualify you for the Olympic gymnastics team. I could send you some pic but would not post here....close to maxing out my photo allocation. IF interested, send me a PM with your e-mail....and as stated...working one segment at a time. I however recommend the front at the cowl to begin as so much is going on here that ties the body together. Making your panels will not be hard with bead roller....but you may wish to have another set of hands to turn the crank as you guide the metal. It can get involved. Outer rockers should be readily available C2C should be able to help. DO NOT EXPECT perfect fits even with shaped panels...it has been 30+ years since I have seen factory replacement rockers. The rear pan under the quarter lights will likely continue into the wheel opening with your repairs...again, layers fixing the deepest layer first cutting a tad beyond the next layer so you will have good metal to weld the next layer in place.

welcome back and hoping you can stick with the project for a spell. I know fully well how easy it is for life events to throw you a curve ball and take you away from working your projects. I stalled a few days on a current project trying to get actual dimensions as the samples I had were not as we say, falling into place or making sense. Am moving forward again as of this afternoon.

we need the equivalent of SAE for software....

perhaps this short read will be of help to you..... Four Stroke Theory of Operation Flashcards | Quizlet

driveshaft universal cover

would you believe...?? missing it by that much means.....you looking at a small map.........

you do not have to identify the 54 engine on any serial number of production car...being the only year Plymouth offered the 218 and the 230 as straight 6 engine available, the engine is stamped special to indicate the 230 distinction, the DIAMOND you see stamped ahead of the series/design number....this is 230 and only 1954 engines will ever have this mark.

I think you may want to look at online buying....that is extremely high for a servo motor. I also think you will like the control you will get instantly with this set up.....I bought a Consew brand and I think at the time it was just 129.00 Seriously thinking of changing the Singer model to servo motor.

I have to admit I could never get the hang of the clutch on my walking foot machines, the older Singer I have, not so bad...the new machine, PITA so I broke down and put a servo motor on it and tamed the beast....heck sewing almost fun now.

nah.....they just have good agenda driven lobbyists......