Plymouthy Adams

TV...in the shop....??? Well I guess I am guilty, as I got a 32" for free and connected my DVD player I had spare to it, put it in place and put a cover over it and that is where you will find it today....not in use at all....only viewed it to test the setup. Now stereo...that is all I need and the only clock I need is in the paint booth for timing the flash between coats. The paint booth was used for the longest time as overflow storage as I remodeled a bit in the house...I have the two commercial sewing machines now moved to the room above the garage and I am out there now and almost got it back to where I can drive in a car again and do some paint spraying. Objective is to try to have this end of the shop cleaned and operational by the weekend.

I cut the extra hole as aligned with the new service location for the sender. The original cover is in place and the wiring routes as normal there but the new hole cover is merely a 4 x 4 electrical handy-box cover with the preformed (raised) 3 inch opening for large outlets that I then welded a section of a metal over to enclose it. The raised section of the handy-box cover provides sufficient room for the electrical terminals. Just a quick means to cover the access without a whole lot of fabrication by using a ready made item. Will be covered by carpet so no one is the wiser. Might work for you also.

I have the original tank in my vehicle but did make a cradle just the same for install. Reason for the cradle was to relocate the tank to the center of the car body utilizing original mount holes thus changing the offset so I could install dual exhaust. Being a business coupe and flat floor, this was easily done. As for the cradle...this may or may not give you an idea of what it may need.

that rings true today, maybe not so much the car...bur for certain the drivers...

yes, but say you had to drive that car one day for 700-1000 miles....it's doable....the power grid in America is not set up for the total electric highways at the rate of daily travel on the roads that is per day...we would have a grid melt down....and how in the world green will support green...while changing..it is not changing fast enough for the goals and targets placed on public and manufacturering. It will I guess get there either by force or failure to supply...

had to crunch him over to another picture format.....

too much and maybe damage your seal...at the point you are now with noise, the failure is in motion....just biding your time right now,.

no one mentioned green grass or for that matter the yard on fire.....dried leaves set the tractor on fire at the exhaust manifold...due to the dry spell and abundance of pecan trees, as many leaves being pushed ahead of the mower as being mulched by the blades.....slow, ! you would have a hard time keeping up the zero turn running wide open...The black walnut has already dropped its leaves also and the nut harvest was a good year.

mulching leaves today, we had been dry for about 6 weeks and the pecans shed early due to that...while mulching, some leaves pushed up under the engine and caught on fire...had a bottle of water handy...doused the flame and drove to the facet and hose and washed it down...of all the years I have been doing this, this is a fire-st mower is fine and yard look so much better.

my question to you is did you order/buy your tune up parts based on year of car or as you should have, by the part number of the distributor. Over the years it is not at all strange or unusual to have distributors changed, thus the NEED to buy by distributor over make and model.

40 was the last year for the basic run before change in 41 to other gearing....the 36 - 40 list the same ratios but as stated by me on the other thread started by the OP there are other options....with a fast first and second and reverse ratio

I totally understand and respect your opinion....but I am still puzzled the why of a floor cut with a master that is not a Wilwood....many donors can be had that are not integral reservoirs. These are easily adapted and cost effective units and the only difference would in my opinion be the home-grown adapter that would need be fabricated. So if floor cut is what is putting you off on a possible later model Mopar (other brand) cylinder...that technically should not be an issue/concern. These later masters come in a variety of bores for to tailor your 'applied' foot pressure. It is only the concern of having to buy (mail order) from a sole source that puts me off Wilwood and some other folks who do not list source as it is/may be a proprietary item..

that extra 100.00 would go a long way with buying parts for other systems/needs for the vehicle and while you can order the rebuild kits for these, they are some double the cost and only available from them. Whereas other brands listed here are OTC assemblies and repair kits and could mean the difference between stranded offsite and laid up a day or say awaiting parts. This is more important to me, RM&A is everything when building and is always the deciding factor for myself. If you do not plan to take the car away from home then I can see where parts availability may not be an issue.

In my opinion the cylinder with integral reservoir was for that reason the why I chose not to go in that direction but strike out and locate a more suitable master for my needs and fabricate the setup I have installed. I do not nor wish ever to service through the floorboard any master cylinder. Others may not see this an issue but others may not have the carpet installed as I do and prior to this upgrade and before the carpet even my original master I made remote fill. Again, this is not that hard of a task retrofitting, but I think by your descriptor of what you do not like, you have greatly narrowed your options. While the integral master/reservoir can be adapted for remote fill, that often entails yet need for a tad more room between the master and floorboard.

the gear ratio for the S10 smaller truck is by design geared in first and second to get you rolling and up to speed with the often equipped smaller anemic engines of the S10 when at load. You will have the similar experience with the flathead if you get too tall in 1st and second via the close ratio gear sets...3-5 gear ratio is often the same or so close to the close ratio transmission you will effectively be the same with the truck wide ratio in the top 3 gears. Many find the truck ratio effective just for this reason.

number of ways to skin this cat....you alone must decide the level of involvement and the cash outlay you willing to inject into this phase of the brake upgrade. Number of companies selling bolt on kits for the modern master...quick and esy in and out for the most part but is a bit of out of pocket...number of posts by those compiling their method from a home-grown approach, usually lower costs in material and parts but will take time, skill and fabrication tools (metal cutters, welder and drill press etc. Only you know if you have the time tools and such to do this task. The advantage you are looking for is not only operative brake system, but cost effective in replacement parts be it a rebuild kit or rebuilt master should the need arise down the road. Most of the aftermarket/home-grown give you ease of future maintenance and source of parts that will be cost effective and available OTC for years to come. Study this bit for you own application.

unfortunately, over time in the use of composite gasket and those that stay saturated (fully service with coolant) you can get soft material between the sealing rings of the head chamber profile. This softening due to wet and age coupled with the least bit of cylinder pressure blowby will cause the compressed air to find an exit either to the middle bolt hole opening to the block or the head bolt opening to the intake. It is this gradual loss of material between the pencil thin segment of the gasket that results in the ultimate blown gasket as the material can no longer support the folded metal sealing ring that the gasket material supports and eventual loss of compression as it transfers to the sister bore as a full blown gasket.

the water passage from the block into the head passages are a bit away from the head bolts....and the head bolt hole is not open to the water passage in the head, it would be slim chance of a really badly damaged head gasket leaking from the coolant holes to the head bolt and secondly the head bolt hole being heavily cast as it is, would not suspect a crack here but anything is a possibility. This is just the manner of the arrangement of bolts and passages in relationship to the intake. Good luck, hope a bit of sealant will fix or slow it down, this will let you know if a new head gasket may be in need. Have seen stranger things for sure.

bingo....you have these identified and the torque is 65-70 on the head bolts....

there are three head bolts that enter directly into the intake manifold. The bolt between the intakes for cyl. 1 & 2: 3 & 4 and 5 & 6. You may wish to pull these three bolts (one at a time so not to totally disrupt your head torque) and seal the threads and watch to see if this will correct or at least slow down the leak. I would also suggest this be done one bolt at a time and check between each bolt sealed to further define the area of concern. The head bolt will center on the intake port to the head for the three cylinder sets.

b-watson was at one time the best with information on the Canadian cars and well, Mopar in general for the era. He has not posted here since 11/2020 so I have no idea as to his membership and or general health. One would think a few of the avid Mopar owning Canadians could well be in line to answer the paint query, it just may be a bit before/if they sign on and or even read this thread.

same for 51 but then again still not the canadian number I suppose I can only suggest two places that may be able to help with the canadian paint specs, first would be to the Plymouth Owners Club and second would be drop a question onto the AACA forum for Plymouths....we seem to always have problems when trying to determine the canadian color over the US color. With the paint code on the tag, are you certain the car was not a color change?

Plymouth Cream 665 93-81373 246-81373 1950 to see the full chart and the associated color chip, scroll way down to Plymouth and it will display.... 1950 Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth Paint Charts and Color Codes (uniquecarsandparts.com.au)

to run the center cap you will need the wheels with the hubcap clips....some here list optional other car brand clips you can retrofit to a modern wheel and use these caps...just be sure the cap will insert into the proposed wheel you wish before ordering clips or buying the wheels. I would think besides just the offset of the modern/optional wheel choice you will have to consider the cap fitting the center and the depth of the center for the retention clip to mount and fully lock the cap in place thus verify. Else, you will need to source a set of factory wheels of the size you wish. Biggest single headache involving replacement wheels and original caps.

the two plug wire when wired properly allows immediate charging and not having to rev the engine to energize...second, the sense as close to battery as can be connected senses battery conditions and ensure proper charging rate....many out of simplicity just ignore these wires on retrofit....seldom do any install a charging indicator light so the KISS practice is applied.