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Faulkner

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About Faulkner

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    59 Sport Fury
    54 Plaza Suburban

Converted

  • Location
    Upper Darby, PA
  • Interests
    Cars, 59plymouth.net (my website), grandkids!

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  1. Correct, that's the battery location. Any 6V battery will do? When I replaced the 6V in my '54 Suburban, the one I got at AutoZone was considerably shorter than the one it replaced. So I know there's at least two sizes/types! I was hoping to pick up the battery before I got to his house. The last thing I want to have happen, is to buy it, get there, and find it doesn't fit.
  2. In a couple of weeks, I'll be visiting a friend with a '36 Touring, siphoning out the old gas after clearing the fuel pump and gas line, and hoping to get it started with fresh gas. He suspects it will need a new 6V battery. Is there an equivalent available at Autozone or PepBoys? What to ask for? Thanks Dan
  3. Rich, as Ken points out above - my particular pump is agnostic with regard to polarity. It will work regardless of which lead is grounded. I intend to test this (by holding the leads to the battery, then swapping them), but I can believe it.
  4. Rich, do you mean, both pumps are always running, with the expectation that the electric will pick up should the mechanical fail? Or do you switch the electric off? I'm interested in the benefit of the electric pump for starting conditions - i.e., fill the carburetor bowl *before* cranking starts. But if the mechanical is in series with the electrical, might that not act as a flow impediment, depending on the position of the fuel pump arm? That is - will the electric pump push gas through the mechanical pump, regardless of where the cam is when the engine was turned off?
  5. Yup! Thanks Sam. No continuity between the housing and either lead.
  6. I bought this Brock U886-9092 electric fuel pump for my + ground, 6V '54 Plymouth. It came with no instructions, and calling Brock did not help - they can't advise. (!) Has anyone used this pump? I have a couple of questions... 1) What's the doodad I've circled in red - is it a check valve? Does in go on the input side, or the output side of the pump? 2) I was told that it's for either +/- ground - I presume from this, the two wires are isolated from the housing. Can someone confirm? adTHANKSvance, Dan
  7. I've read in this thread that folks add a switch for priming, which they turn off after the car has started. This seems like a reasonable idea to me - wouldn't that obviate the need for a shutoff valve? And, if I place the electrical pump at the tank, would the mechanical pump still draw through the electrical when it's powered off? (I already have power available at the rear anyway, to power a 6-to-12 V converter for my backup camera; I would just add a separate inline fuse - and then run back a wire to ground the pump with a dash switch.)
  8. Sam, I take it that it's not recommended to run a mechanical fuel pump in series with an electric? What is the reason, if not - and if not, where might I get a block-off plate for a 230? adTHANKSvance, Dan
  9. I searched eBay for "hornedata" as a vendor, and for item number 233499416168... No hits. Has he stopped doing business, or is there another connection to him?
  10. I have a '54 Plymouth Plaza Suburban, and a narrow driveway. I really have to crane my neck to ease "Martha" down the drive. I'd love to install a backup camera to use with my iPhone. Are there 6V cameras out there with Bluetooth transmitters, and has anyone adapted one for a positive ground system? (And no, I'm not interested in converting to 12V negative ground.)ThanksDan
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