Plymouthy Adams

I knew a guy who never had the first sport car of any type and he always was wearing a BMW, Corvette or Mustang etc logo jacket....I guess in a way he may have been smarter....sometimes it is nice to walk home with a jacket on....surely the above would leave you stranded as it is....? fly the flag....while I serves Army and Air Force....I did about 16 years DoD supporting the Navy and identify with many ships and submarines....I ever worked a tad on the Iwo Jima....(USMC missions) sadly I was there in the Persian Gulf the day the steam valve blew. Sad event, if nothing else, fly it for the guys who died that day in the accident.

we are all in the hobby for one reason or another, some are realistic, some not so realistic...lots of back and forth between owners on stock verse mod and drive verse doing the work on them. I am more into your side of the hobby where the majority of the fun is the build...but not to the point that I am afraid to drive them when finished and if it does not perform, gallon of gas and match and that one is behind you and move along Betty and find another fun project......the match and gas is just a joke folks....but I do say if it will not perform or if I was forced to keep it stock, may as well burn it....? Many of my cars are stock many are modified...it all depends on what I see in the car when I get it..

common find after years of use...you were border lining a failure here for sure.....once repaired...should make a remarkable difference is the action...think of all the leg action to get it to this condition...

the modern thermostat is use with a special stand/adapter that will allow proper positioning within the thermostat cover...do a search on e-bay and or rockauto to see what these look like, shop and buy accordingly.

you got me beat on temperature as higher but with the lower humidity you at least have room in the atmosphere to evaporate sweat off your body....not quite what we have here in middle Georgia (currently 81%) ....I piddled a bit in the high bay of the barn running a power drop to the lift for the runway lights, hung a few plaque of vintage cars and modified a couple shop light over the benches for good LED working light and stayed soaking wet with sweat for over 12 hours while out there playing around. I have plenty of block sanding sitting in the wings for prep and top coat but am not fond of dripping sweat on a panel while working so decided to clean and organize shop in our current heat wave. It is not fun even taking a convertible or bike out until after sundown

major involvement to do this correctly as you will need to also change the front frame rails to set the MII style IFS in place....even doing your own work, it will be costly as it seems you may be looking for a cut and weld by number kit, fabricator would already be down to prepped stubs by now.....sub-framing is best in my opinion IF your mind is set on modern.......but there are pros and cons sub framing also....do read a bit....find the manner you wish to proceed then ask the builder for a tip or two...these are archived here with a search of the forum. Many upgrade the current IFS with R&P, disc brakes and shock relocation, quick and easy.

hypoid extreme pressure (HGL SAE 90) for the axle and GL1 for the transmission that is if you have a standard three speed and not a fluid drive unit...each is filled till the fill hole is just flush inside with oil just starting to run out....rule of thumb for safe level is pinky inserted into the fill hole to first joint and pointing down and if touching oil...considered good to go....

todays copper washer are a tad hardened compared to the better annealed washer in the past....you may wish to remove and anneal these yourself....last person who had this issue did anneal when it was suggested and solved his issue of leak....it is a shame we must come behind the makers today...but I would almost always suggest annealing before install based on the supply parts we are getting as a preventive step. I often have the fear of breaking a banjo bolt cranking down to stop a seep.....they are already weakened a bit by their very design with the drilled holes.

that is up there a bit, but it is all auction hype and they love the bidding wars and the mentality that I am going to wind this auction between just he and one other clown in the audience. These auction has those that have easy money and well easy come easy goes is the bread and butter of the auction house...am sure this bid will have other buyer and seller fees attached and the auction house make plenty of money sale or no sale. These do not mark the true value of the car it only defines the purse of the bidders or the fever created by a fast pace auction, but....if he is happy....I'm all for it....now next time you seen one of these in the field as a project, this new high has now increased the new low as everybody now has auction fever.

many folks have not 'seen' the light in decades.....! ?

as 1/87 is HO scale for train...then it only goes to say it would be for anything else that would make a scale rail setting/display

ah, you need a bigger fire place now.....but yes, I do get it as I like to collect a model of the vehicles I have....sometimes, it is not that easy for sure.

Didn't Dodge do that already.......ok...will go stand in the corner a bit, but first, a refill of my coffee.

looks spiffy enough for the asking price

your experience mirrors the last one I am familar with in person....happened to a fellow forum member that is local to me....he called me for guidance...he actually at the time had not discovered the oil pump had siezed....that was found immediately when I got there...first go to item.

the ones I have seen and have described are mechanical locked up, sometimes it is trash in between the rotors....others is a mechanical seizure to poor tolerancing of the machined parts and lack of lube due to this. Some unknown as have to be returned unmolested for warranty.

you can easily inspect the cam gear through the oil pump hole and dropping the pan could well be prudent...the likelihood of a broken tooth entering the oil pickup with the screen in place very slim. Odds are you know the tooth count missing, a magnet could likely retrieve these through the drain plug. Any broken remains of teeth compared to the portion missing from the gear on the pump. And, at having another issue spring forth (no pun) you may wish to take a minute to compose before tackling. Not suggesting alcohol mind ya, coffee works well for me, but a bit of the hair of the dog may be in order...don't consume the whole dog.

the pump gears are designed to shear in this case and the cam teeth are not...they very robust.....this is also not uncommon....have seen the very thing you have experienced....even with priming the pump this can happen and am sure nothing you did inasmuch as lube.....now as in the last case I was involved in, the pump was warrantied and thus I was not able to open the pump to see if it ingested anything that aided in the locking of the pump....had to return the pump unmolested. As an added, ensure the cam gear has no broken teeth still in the cam gears...this would be an instant repeat of sheared gears.

your 1954 model being an automatic and 230 is not covered in the 1954 shop manual and the data you will need will be that of the 1955 model year.. If you lucky you can find a few bulletins on the tranny, power brakes and power steering for the model year also...but then again, will be in the 1955 book. The auto and 230 was a mid year introduction.

it truly is....and this I am sure was a distracted driver....however there is no excuse at the age of 50 not stopping the render aide or at minimum call 911 and am sure he was aware you are not to hit and run. He had a cold calculated plan to exit the scene of the crime however showing no remorse for his actions but only to try and save his sorry butt. I am sure the next step if not already put in play by him was to report the car stolen and he just discovered that fact. Action, arrested, bail denied. Road rage incidents of increasing violence is on the rise in our area as I read the news the few times I do (gets me riled) and well, this is becoming ever so common everywhere. My grandson was hit and run inside a state park on a bicycle path no less by a couple estimated to be mid 60's who was on a powered ATV not supposed to be on the bike path....taken to the hospital by helicopter the couple broke camp and disappeared and not found to this date. Personally I do not think the police care enough to follow any leads...after all, all entrances in the park is recorded. Again, the sorry state of humanity these days.

a local gentleman (76) was fatally hit and run just a few miles from my house. Have seen him out and about many times, always rode on the very shoulder of the road. This is not an isolated incident and why I have been out so few times on my bike in recent past as these incidents is on the rise as is driver rage toward bike riders. The guy who hit him had the time and forethought to stop, remove the bike embedded into his grille and chunk it to the side of the road, drive off about a mile and abandon the car, am sure if failed to proceed as it looked like it rammed a phone pole dead center, after abandoning the car, then proceeded away from the car and further from the scene and any help nearby and was located only with the assistance of a tracking K-9....I passed by the car parked along the road abandoned before I saw the scene of the accident and told the wife how odd the wrecked car and no sign of an accident there. There were zero skid marks, the bike was well ahead of the point of impact when tossed. Sad day...!

added caster will increase the effort to steer.....one learns to turn the steering as the wheel is rolling if ever so slowly as an aide..with the added caster and not knowing the tires you run....air pressure change could be bumped a bit...again, have no clue your tire pressures...the older bias balloons loved the lower pressure for the added caster they provided at speed...if modern radial and this added caster....run these at the pressure recommend by maker..

as an update the schroons were very good.....however....I think I still prefer deep fried if but for the even coating verse the sagging of the batter air fried...

cam drives the pump...pump has slot drive for distributor tang....time it as you wish in regard to slot position in this manner of drive set up...when you have established TDC and oreinted the plug wires to the cap you in business.....later if pulled and installed and neglected to check rotor position on pulling...you either on or 180 out. The slot only became to be specifically mentioned to be at 7o'clock in later manuals.

I am in the process of making some air fried mushrooms and they are in the air fryer now.....fingers crossed.....!!!