Plymouthy Adams

must have been the warning.....DON'T LOOK and, you didn't.....just yanking you a bit on that....I looked at the thread....it would run on life support a bit but I would not have invested the time. Got fatter fish to fry that will return greater happiness.

....this was just posted a week or so back if I recall....

white wall are not paint but vulcanized rubber to the tire casing in making the tire. Many white wall can be cleaned with special cleaner for that or many just simply use a brillo pad. Many use bleach but have been told this is not a good process for the rubber. I personally use a product that goes by the name of B52 Brown Bomber Soap. That stuff is good and I have seen it removed the bronze glaze from 100 year old glass when nothing else would touch it. Other cleansers work well and you can actually use the hand cleaner with pumice. But paint on a vulcanized whitewall....a no-go for me. NOW if I missed something and these are faux white wall and originally painted...then forget what I said, I was never here...

not a Plymouth but process to repair and refinish will be about the same.....I so wanted this banjo wheel, took a a few repairs with PC-7, couple mods to set the spokes to display 10-2-6 instead of factory 8-12-4 Last thing I needed was a spoke sticking up in view.....never saw why that was so popular with the original maker. Also this wheel never had the horn center stock, had to prep the wheel for that small mod also.

some folks just had a tough time shaking the T-model days and ways

many folks have their own method and routine on brake bleeding.....I for one will not pump the brakes until the very final step. I will vacuum bled solo....if I have a helper, the method is to have them slowly press the pedal down while I open the bleeder then secure before instructing them to slowly let the pedal come back up. Do this till you see no air bubbles in the see through bleeder hose you hopefully are using so to keep the fluid off the floor and underside of the car and tires. This method prevent aeriation of the fluid from premature pumping you will do for those last couple bubbles. As for hooking it up dry, your unit should have some assembly preservative/lube and would not hurt to place it on the bench and allow fluid to enter the chamber just to active and wet the seals...wetting the seals would be my first concern here...not air.

as your residuals are inline and not in the master you should not have issues

horns were tweaked by ear in the absence of an amp meter....you can tweak by amp draw if using a meter as a guide while still listening to the tone of the horn....the book shows 32-38 amps and that should be BOTH horns. (later 111 wheel base cars only came with one horn per note in book) Depending on the actual voltage available, battery or higher with car running and generator output, your resistance should be near the .3 ohm rating given the amperage stated as combined in the book. Tone will be by trumpet length. The book only states to set the horn by tone with the other horn disconnected. I suspect that they figured the average car owner not owning an accurate amp meter. If setting by meter...you will be near that 18 amps per horn. The horn with the higher resistance is suspect....remove the cover, clean the points, verify good clean ground and open the contact....adjust to correct tone or amperage when tightening the adjuster..

all failures happed at the worse time it seems...however I do agree, you definitely define 'worse' with that scenario...

lots of different folks go different ways on ignition upgrades...some are effective, some are troublesome and some are just too 'rigged' to ever find favor in my eye but can ultimately be configured to work and be less problematic and affordable way beyond the 'roll of the dice' PerTronix where with/when failure if you do not carry a spare module, you stranded for as long as it takes to source and order in. Shipping these days with many using third party packer/handlers....add 3-5 extra days. For me, the first is still the first and let you go from there.

I would think first to find the replacement bush....then easy is only as you see the task once completed Just remembered, with the Forward Look crowd, this bush may be readily available...and maybe in poly. Poly gives less....one would work it into the capture of the bracket then well lube the bar and hole to slide the assembly together....

similar manner a bicycle crank lever is set on the crank pin......look close at the picture inset above....you see this taper is referencing the FLAT..

there is so much difference between the Plymouth manual and the Dodge...I have both, the Dodge book looks like new...my Plymouth book stays by the computer in case I can use it to help here now and then and you can tell it has been handled a bit. The Plymouth manual has way more details on the average.

the pin is shown as a taper, would not guess the amount of said taper.......the smaller end IS NOT staked, only the larger end....to remove...drive the pin from opposite of the stake. Good pictures of this in the repair if you have that available...if not maybe someone with a scanner can get that copied and pasted. Not sure if this will show well but tried to do a photo see inset that shows the taper pin....

For sure, Summit is also another good source for these kits.....he will likely want the buy a generic transmission cross member also... Chevrolet Parts and Accessories at Summit Racing

I sold a mount kit to a guy in Canada of what you are looking for so long ago as that was the direction the prior owner intended to go....I sold all the GM stuff he accumulated and came with the so far unbutchered car and went pure Mopar....I traced the very plates that were the weld in mounts....but it would be a miracle for me to find where they could be at this time. I am spraying some topcoat today on a few trinkets for the current project....if my mind should lock onto a possible place I stored this drawing.....will let you know. There are a number of SBC kits on e-bay that are what is generic/universal...perhaps he or you could cruise the listings....

that question might get you an invitation to a NECKTIE party.....? that has been done so many times...I am surprised you could not pick these items up off the side of the road where it had fallen out....I poke fun....many of these guys have dropped off as suppliers....getting things fabricated for a store front is not what it once was with cost of material going off the wall and the fact many of the back/support shops just don't wish to work these days. One supplier told me after the current stock is sold, may not be another for just the above reasons I mentioned. Engine mounts are truly not hard to make, am sure you know that and just rather spend the dime verse spend the time. Good luck

might be time to trade these glasses in for a new pair.....

might explain his three speed reverse......?

go with the molded and leave the generic ribbed flex hose for the Ferd and Chebbie boys......much nicer look....

you go to any forum....you see the same thing....Pertronix failure....sad but true....it is my opinion that if these were really good units, the OTC parts guys would be stocking these themselves and well, even if bad why are they not making a fortune selling replacements. Sorry but just my opinion that it seems I share with Adam.....I know many folks have had good luck with them, odds are Pertronix would buy these back to see where they went wrong selling a product that lasted. ?

Thanks for your update, many would not guess the personal involvement removing the silent blocks will be.....if you can find loaded shackles for a good price grab then if not for now...for down the road...these are getting ridiculously expensive given you find them at all. You doing good....glad to hear you finding stuff for retrofit that will at the same time give a bit of added performance for if you get the wild hair to goose it a bit.....

funny, the ones I got were Moog brand and a direct slip in.....no, I did not record the Moog number....could be a early verse late Valiant application. Sorry to have informed you wrongly...my apologies and my bad for not writing this number down. I only had to cut for length to meet in the center of the spring eye. As for the front eyes of the leaf springs....these are not just slip in bushing...these are called a silent block...sleeve and rubber within another metal sleeve that is pressed into the spring eye...now if yours has been changed to push in bushing in the past....you may need to continue with such replacements. Removing the original spring eye is not a simple knock out might I add. As for poly, yeah tougher stuff.....I just rebuilt a British car front and rear suspension with all poly bushings, I know the trade off for better handling will be the resultant stiffer ride and contributing road noise transfer.

unless our front spring eye bush is falling apart....I do not suggest just randomly changing them. In the manner they are made stock, am not sure any poly with sleeve will be an improvement here.

this is my shield in place