Plymouthy Adams

the pins as shown and explained in the pictures are bolts with the heads cut off and slotted for a yankee screwdriver to aid in screw them in and out and show optimum position for effectiveness...thus the pins are GUIDE pins one will create themselves for ensuring the gasket does not shift when placing pan against the block....the narrative and written text with the pictures pretty much explains this step by step see picture posted by 9 foot box.....

just to satisfy my curiosity, does not your computer/smart phone show the pictures of the pan with gaskets and pin locations clearly marked or the picture of the actual pin one easily makes for this application....

that movie line is classic.....so much going on even in the background that keeps you in stitches....crazy stupid at its best....!

when you are seated in driving position, an assistant is holding the mirror....would be hard to make a hole where it should not be...now it is easy to make a hole, mount the mirror and later say I don't like these....worse when one get busted and you cannot find a replacement...therefore, yes....a clip on would like be your best move. These later swan necks have been out there for years and I feel they will still be available years down the road. The task is often only as hard as you make.

an assistant is always handy for such as this...BE AWARE...the passenger side is the hardest to set practical usage and I recommend you check that fit first and then for balance see if it will work equally well for the drivers side.

I pretty much think all are in agreement to the cowl mounted mirrors....none are being shown here....and later on in the 50 with the fender mounted mirrors, pretty much the same....while the drivers side if somewhat effective, the passenger side is all for balance and show it seems. The curve of the door at the top makes finding any mirror that will set and look less than tacky add on is very hard to come by.

the modern readily available swan necks that are stud mounted with ant-rotational stud included work well. Admittedly mine are mounted onto my P15 via what I call tiara trim from a donor car carefully worked to fit the shape of the P15...the mirrors are functional but would like them to be about an inch larger in diameter if my opinion means anything.....pictures taken during assembly, third pic may show them in a frontal view.....

most glaziers have the template available through NAG....contact them and inquire.

it is my finding that more resistors failed due to the position they were mounted and the sudden cooling when exposed to water when hot and wet hood lifted....I always run a dropping resistor on the older ignitions....and I cannot recall changing a resistor....shield them...you will survive the ride...

in your first post you mentioned you used 140 wt. hypoid oil....do you know what hypoid oil is.....enough said.....the API still rates the oil, the industry still supplies the correct oils as needed. you free to read interpret and use what you wish....it is the posting of misinformation that more the manner I said what I did.

as I read this, he is planning on using just the wire and not the actual plugs of the extension cord...use stranded wire for DC.....you can use this if you wish.....you could not begin to count the number of car trailers and such wired with extension cord donors....just too quick and easy, nice protective coating over the wires...

GL1 is still available, never been made obsolete and likely never will, the GL2, GL3 and GL6 are obsolete with GL4 and GL5 a hypoid oil with EP additives and the move from sulfur to other additives, you still do not need this in a tranny, only in the rear differential. If the GL1 was not available I could see a discussion for a substitute, I also see other marketed gear lubes used but again, these are not hypoid gear classed oils. If it is marked EP...not for the tranny.

are you using a starter relay/solenoid?

Good deal on the building....I have in my mind a last mod to compliment my LAST mod to the barn....I love being involved in building such as this. I can probably add that on the other van, the British built unit, I did some parts locating and got a bit of primer in place after establishing the switch tabs would fit as I wished. I did not even consider the tabs till after setting the switches, chosing to set the switches staggered was my salvation for fit. I have the panels now in final primer and as stated, the larger finish finals for the dash to compliment the full door cubbies as the van and truck were never fitted as such from the factory. Yes that is a right hand door, the van is RHD I took a break from the B250 roof and decided to put a few miles on the P15 bz cpe. Warm day so the AC was spot on color me done for the event this year......

I was sitting on the walk board, feeling the drop in temp, knew rain was coming....figured I was pushing my luck but continued to the front was completed. Covered it up, jumped on the mower, was going to gut the easements and drainage are of the easement ahead of the rains. Got that cut and could see the rain just up the road....continued cutting...well, rain did not make it to my yard, all is cut, I am cleaned up and a pizza is in the oven. tomorrow is another day

well I have been piddling with this off and on and the Barista van is staged under my walk board and ladders for roof access. I am in the van with a coffee with the selfie. The job is going slow....this one has shot me a learning curve or two. But I will prevail over time and have some fresh paint on the roof. For a short armed person such as myself there is no way to reach the middle of the van roof standing on the ladder...the walk board does make it easier and more comfortable to work.

how 'bout them long roof B250 Dodge Barista-mobiles

today that commercial is You can pay me now and you can pay me again later as I did not diagnose the problem correctly the first time, nor the second and subsequent attempts these days.

.030 of stock or max dia. 11.060 Most all shops have this and will not turn beyond limit...even if on a golf cart.....

I personally only refer to the stock 6 blade fan offered by Ma Mopar...it is correct is all aspects.

the envelope at the very top right of this page...now if you on iPhone, I cannot say what it may display there or how to access....

I sent a PM and am not sure if you activate PM notices on your account.....it is still unread.

gentle reminder here....them tires are way past their expiration/safe use date......?

most all the cables even through the 2004 Mopar cables I have used in retrofitting is the same basic cable and retainer size albeit different shape will lock the cable to the handle or the distant end adjuster or to the very rear backing plate and spanner on those models with drum brakes. Modern units can be two piece/three piece cable and connecting collars used...various lengths exist....easy retrofitting with these setups and are so readily available at the wrecking yard as this is an item that is 99% of the time crushed with the car even after offered to be picked over to the general public. The 48 bz cpe with the 2004 rear axle using the donor 04 cable all the way to the stock hand brake handle....where it got a single mod of the 04's switch for e-brake light to let you know it is set via the light on the information panel.

like all things, inspections, maintenance and common sense go a long way....in the absence of this, the lobbyist will tell you what you need...? I just replaced a set that was many and I do mean many years old, no crack, no weather checking but at last they start to separate internally...did I know they were on the way out , heck yeah, anyone but a Shriner in a clown car would have known....! Even at that, there was no external check, cracks or splits anywhere.