Plymouthy Adams

throw in the towel but do not throw in extra rubber bushings.....you may need what is referred to as a chevy wrench for bolt extraction....yeah these do rust....but before slamming them with blunt force, heat them a few times with the torch....don't have a torch....your headaches are just beginning....

I see this as maybe the dealer was named Whering, and in the town of Groton Conn. The distance between the two is 312 miles and could well have been installed there while visiting family.....

the cause and effect and the cure will lead to heated arguments, much hate, denial, and political implications at every turn...this will not get turned around in our lifetime if ever fixed at all.

is it bashing if it is the truth

good deal, always good to hear of folks making progress...

due to global warming these unit are just now being discovered as the snow and ice melts....? maybe not that bad but if you own a snow shovel, way too north for me....

along the same lines of firing 6 shots into Superman's chest but yet somehow throwing the gun at him was going do him harm...?

re-wring and prevent the blow by....! I would suggest that you check your draft tube at the right rear of the engine for a possible carbon/gunked up exit screen given you have a screen that is.

this action is needed to get it out...swaging it a bit instrumental for inserting and locking it back into place....shy of swaging, good cleaning of both surfaces one could likely set it with RTV....then along the lines of every TV commercial out there, you can then twist and shout...!

in many cases and no means am I saying this in reference to specific foot print parts, but the change/upgrade etc from OTC parts, well go to Vegas and roll the dice, about the same odds. What to do...well still a bit of a gamble but if you glean parts from the modern cars and retrofit, they seem to last a bit better as the companies seems to have a higher standard and hold the makers to these standards. The cheaper knockoffs and their entry level prices look good on paper and mostly that is as reliable as it gets, what you buy looks like what is in the picture. In the world of fuel pumps, mechanical ones are not a item found on new cars. For those using the electric as a primer pump...cheap often works well it is not constant run use. If relying in an electric pump, very few have the performance and stamina of the Facet brand cube where as the draw back is it is not 6 volts...but if you have upgraded to 12 volts the Facet is IMO hands down, the best money can buy. Sage advice to building your old unit either yourself or send it out....take a couple of seconds and inspect it and correct the usual cheap suspect that is the pin. Anything else here will border/include political statements. The fuel pump scenario had been an ongoing issue here for long many years which can be resolved with a bit of self motivated intervention. No matter the part you need, likely it boils down to this....CHEAP IS CHEAP

tough answer, only you know your limitations and to what extent you wish to make something work. IT would be quite the involvement and if I was going to go the route of anything other than stock and as you do not have the stock drivetrain....I would be looking at a Mopar V8-V6 to drop in place. I am most pleased with my latest drop in V6 and 5 speed.

OUTFXD, Thanks for taking the time to present your work tactics in maintaining your wheels and tires both in words and pictures. This will surely help someone along the way.

at the firewall lower corners, remove these capture nuts....on the passenger side at the top of the axle tip is a mounted isolation pad also...and then oftne the two at the trunk corners get over looked....hard to lift the middle when the ends are still secured.

Lots of pros and cons to the car shows as pointed out here. The number one reason for me not to attend is the locked up period where the car is not allowed to be moved because of the risk due to foot traffic of the event. I hate the idea of sitting about babysitting a car and locked in place. The fees for the owners to enter their cars is over the top when compared to the free to public foot traffic. Food venders off the wall cost and yes I know they paying space and often percentage of gross for the captured audience. Venders are often liable to the owner of the facility and nothing back to the clubs. For funding for the club, sometimes a good revenue maker, often a break even event, hopefully no losses. I still prefer the come and go with no fanfare and formalities of the show event with no awards that is the local cruise-ins. My last awards show I attended was 2003...truly do not care to return to that atmosphere.

Current version of the forum, semantic(s) was used 2-7-2007 and you can keep your worn fan belt, search showed 21 uses of the word. Now back to bed, got a car to drive to look at in the morning.

Was not sure if you were a person who did qualified testing of lifts and cranes. When and if you do find yourself wanting to build or lift safely, there are formulas. Often not that easy to find. The single biggest issue was finding how to establish working limits. The beam is one set of numbers, working rate is a percentage of that. Doing the math it was 69.7% of max beam deflection. DO NOT search using the word test....I found this formula only when I read on PROOFING crane capacity. Jib crane, gantry and well, all different cranes have a formula, it is different on style crane, formula is different with steel verse aluminum. I have recorded these simple figures....nothing hard about it excepting finding information. I worked my formula and wished to rate it well below what might be max capacity. I have a second gantry crane I have built but have not erected, it is much heavier built unit and will test it one day down the road. I modifed the car rotesserie to also be a gantry. Base is factory rated for 3K..I will test the beam and bases. Bases have another formula altogether for concentrated deflection also just as a FYI OSHA will test by deflection, they will base this on the established value on the data tag. In the absence of any tag, they will default to the very formula I used and technically you only need one measurement. Any crane that was modified and or repaired must again be proofed. Trust me, I put a lot of research into building this crane, making it not only a decent looking unit, but safe for load and the lifter.

private owned gantry private built....I tested per established parameters of the metal used and not like most you see on you-tube who measure but not against a calculated deflection. Proofing is testing safe repeating working capacity based again on the industry formulas for a steel beam. Added weight and read beam deflection by dial indicator as I continued to add weight and read deflection. The dial indicator lets you can see the deflection as it is laden as well as you can see the weight read out as you make the lift adding the weight during the lift. Then weight was taken to 25% over working rate and again well below the established limit of a steel beam by industry established formula. My working rate is well below formula calculated working rate and less than half the rating for possible beam stress where spring may be distorted or lost. If you can show me where this is wrong then I am all ears....

For the record...today was crane proofing day. My crane scale came in and set the unit for testing. Target goal for working capacity I set at 1000 lbs as this pus the 25% additional, is just shy the rating of my trolley. max allowed defection .240 inch max working load deflection .166 1056 load was .091 deflection 1250 (with weight of chainfall 1265) .106 deflection unladen, returns to zero...repeat lift, repeat deflection and weight and again returns to zero I will state I have met my goal of a 1K gantry and safety tested to working capacity plus 25% with a deflection margin of .060 for working and .134 before I-beam damage would be likely. I will eventually test this to 1500 lbs. but will need to move it to another location for this. I feel good about this build now.

I thought everyone was already using a piece of PVC or other piece of hollow round stock....but if not in past and fail to do so in the future...then for sure, be it on their heads. Good post....hopefully will be read and heeded to some degree.

must have been the warning.....DON'T LOOK and, you didn't.....just yanking you a bit on that....I looked at the thread....it would run on life support a bit but I would not have invested the time. Got fatter fish to fry that will return greater happiness.

....this was just posted a week or so back if I recall....

white wall are not paint but vulcanized rubber to the tire casing in making the tire. Many white wall can be cleaned with special cleaner for that or many just simply use a brillo pad. Many use bleach but have been told this is not a good process for the rubber. I personally use a product that goes by the name of B52 Brown Bomber Soap. That stuff is good and I have seen it removed the bronze glaze from 100 year old glass when nothing else would touch it. Other cleansers work well and you can actually use the hand cleaner with pumice. But paint on a vulcanized whitewall....a no-go for me. NOW if I missed something and these are faux white wall and originally painted...then forget what I said, I was never here...

not a Plymouth but process to repair and refinish will be about the same.....I so wanted this banjo wheel, took a a few repairs with PC-7, couple mods to set the spokes to display 10-2-6 instead of factory 8-12-4 Last thing I needed was a spoke sticking up in view.....never saw why that was so popular with the original maker. Also this wheel never had the horn center stock, had to prep the wheel for that small mod also.

some folks just had a tough time shaking the T-model days and ways

many folks have their own method and routine on brake bleeding.....I for one will not pump the brakes until the very final step. I will vacuum bled solo....if I have a helper, the method is to have them slowly press the pedal down while I open the bleeder then secure before instructing them to slowly let the pedal come back up. Do this till you see no air bubbles in the see through bleeder hose you hopefully are using so to keep the fluid off the floor and underside of the car and tires. This method prevent aeriation of the fluid from premature pumping you will do for those last couple bubbles. As for hooking it up dry, your unit should have some assembly preservative/lube and would not hurt to place it on the bench and allow fluid to enter the chamber just to active and wet the seals...wetting the seals would be my first concern here...not air.