Plymouthy Adams

the inner lip of the seal will have a round spring on it...by what I can see, yes it appears to be inserted upside down...again...what side has the spring....if pointing to the damper it is wrong...

quick check on this is the tension spring around the sealing lip....as some seals have a small protruding lip forward by design, is that this spring should be facing the inside (oil supply) of the engine.

only slightly so in the front....little arse high rake makes them look good...

Shock studs are everywhere on e-bay, Speedway, and 20 second search on Summit Racing, quick return shows no less than 5 different sets listed...could be lots more but was enough to say with a bit of proactive checking, typing of few words, these can be had quickly and affordably.

many small things could be wrong leading up to the problem you have. Fuel, ignition, exhaust (don't forget the manifold heat control vavle) Maybe not much help here but when you do not readily know what is wrong, prove what is right. By that, go over your state of tune, delivery of fuel, ability to exhaust and ensure the components are up to the task. When is the last time a compression test, valve adjust etc was made on the engine. Small things....prove them one way or another.

the springs got wider with later model spring plates....the u-bolts will have a gap between themselves and the leaf spring assembly...one can easily make a capture cradle here by welding angle iron the the donor spring/shock mount. Here is '04 Dakota axle and shock mounts of the wider variety with the welded angles in place to capture the more narrow stock leaf spring assembly, many may think overkill but Overkill is my middle name. The above narrative and picture is answering REPLACEMENT scenario of the mount plate itself, however one can just as easily remove the damaged stud and bolt in a replacement stud only in your existing mount plates....

I have already swapped the Rex motor to a servo...it tamed the beast....makes sewing on it a pleasure now. No matter how hard I tried to feather the treadle it would punch out at high speed before I could reign it in. I adjusted that clutch this way and that....no dice so when a house addition come along this got put in storage and forgot for a some time. On the Singer it still has the clutch motor but either due to age or better clutch design, it can be feathered for a start. I may eventually change it to a servo motor as control is key to sewing... You have many attachments for your Consew....I have one or two but plan to add a few devices along the way. I also am considering a larger sewing table to tuck this unit into. Next time I am near my trimmers shop will stop in and ask to photograph their sewing room....it's an awesome set up. I put a new needle bar in the Singer, that was the reason it was sold, took a bit but one showed up on e-bay and I bought it, extremely fair price for sure. The repair and adjustments are just so easy on these machines. The Rex, self lubricates with pressurized oil pump.

from online search..... In February of 1954, Plymouth introduced its 230.2-cu.in. PowerFlow straight-six with a longer piston stroke, compression boosted to 7.25:1 and 110 horsepower. so with the diamond in your engine number and if in stock bore, and good tune, you can quote these numbers with some authority. able to beat a tarantula crossing the road and could get a good picture of a roadrunner as it sped alongside. The 230 in my 54 coupled to the Powerflite 2 speed automatic is super smooth with speeds into the 80's (fast enough for this area) with plenty of pedal to go and the automatic holding the shift at WOT to about 52/53MPH lends to some decent acceleration. Made a believer out of Don Coatney....he liked the manner the car performed. I do not recommend speeding and surely recommend upgrades brakes and suspension modified a tad to de-float the boat.

you are right and I am slowly breaking into sewing a bit.....I have a Consew copy for my main machine. I have an older Singer also....got both for such good prices was hard to walk by them. As you said, another tool and a learned process that time and practice is needed for sure. Not everyone is adventurous enough to take on sewing...I finally got my sewing room partially established in the room over the main bay in the garage/shop. Now to just get active and practice sewing a bit.

is any of this going to be usable would be the better question....I look to see a broken hammer in the next thread.....?

snow..........that's a four letter word...!!

I read that also but as I have no idea of the tester quality and accuracy, could be anything on an uncalibrated meter and left it at that.

on your very picture is the note to use the regulator for a common connection point or replace with a junction block...regulator is not used, just a convenient connection point

bigger hammer............eat more Wheaties

cutting a couple of pieces of steel for brackets is low investment for protection at the rear...finding a bumper is often just a trip to the wrecking yard to find one that will be of correct length or a bit longer and cut as I did here. My Morris panel van never ever was given a rear bumper from the factory and well I refuse to run without a bumper so I found this discarded bumper and tweaked it a bit left and right with some slice and dice and welding, wrapped around the excess metal and then shaped this to match the angle of the van body. Was not that hard, took less time than I thought and provided me a space for the rear lights as I wanted dedicated turn signals separate from the single red stop/turn/running threw on some back up lights, rubber snubbers, rear camera and let the big dog eat. (rubber snubbers not show but are the factory unit with a big M on them protection and eye candy....the protect the behive lenses) approx 15 inches per side curved then trimmed. Back up lens is now flat faced clear with super bright LED lamps.. While an English van, the manner of working metal will be the same.

Yeah, no soapbox today, why I called it a never time....today; good food, family and friends....forced myself to stay out of the shop, yard and well just kick back and take it easy...if all goes well, kick off tomorrow with a wrecking yard run....get lost for a bit and poke about for a bit looking for stuff for possible retrofit and a spare or two.

Uncle Sam thanks you but not as much as many folks reaping the benefits should say thanks.....but that is another soapbox for a NEVER time.

Wishing all a good day, hopefully you will have family/friends about and a dine on a delicious meal maybe. Enjoy the day, eat some jelly beans. Cool and damp here, promise of better weather and temps, coffee is perking, life is good.

wishing you the best, wife had hip replacement and to her, a walk in the park compared to not having anything done. I sent a PM to you, member needs help with log in, details are in the PM thanks.

typically, a fender washer is but approx. 2"-2 1/2" and thus does not displace enough metal for a proper 'sandwich'. Many manufacturers use 7/16-20 hardware for the strap ends and pivots of the three point mounts. The better kits in my opinion are the ones that sell the 4 x 4 plates with the nuts welded on the underside. Sometimes this may not fit your footprint but a good guideline when shaping and mounting your backers to account for displacement and also remember if your floor pan is rusted...repair this first. Same advice for the actual bolts holding he seats. In terms of many convertible, there is the absence of a b-post for high mount and thus you will need to adapt/modify here. In the case of the bigger sister bz cpe you have the bulkhead working to your advantage and easy to adapt 3 point harness to while the P15 bulkhead is a bit more rearward and belt length is now an issue. I mention the seat bolts as some folks will adapt later seats with integral belts and not realize the added beef you going to need to secure the seat foundation.

Lots of ways to go and plenty of choices......I installed belts and well, the seats and such from my donor on this build. Cost effective, interior color coordinated and very comfortable when in use. I also recommend a walk through your local wrecking yard for donors...in the case of the burgundy setup, full mock-up pictures, these were 10.00 for the pair and the guy at the yard took out one while I removed the other, matches my color and come from a donor that was recently dropped off and therefore not subject to elements from open doors or removed glass. These also were a bolt in for the factory lap belts that did not retract and were rather cheap and flimsy in my opinion and not up to the task. I enjoy my treks to the wrecking yards looking about for items needed that would be correct and easy to retrofit.

I am about to install the lower seat trim panels when I snapped this pic, the local trimmer did a good job in my opinion and the manner the carpet is sewn and bound were well done. I am not thinking you going to find a better fitting carpet for these cars outside a custom sewn and fitted by a good trim shop, they did the entire interior in a 10 day turn around for less than many get quoted for a set of seat covers only. At least, give them an opportunity to show their work and costs.

thresholds.....my car is not stock.....never entertained this from the concept to completion. My thresholds were bought for 8.00 the pair at my local wrecking yard and adapted....while this will not suit everyone....do not rule out what you may be able to work with by strolling your local wrecking yard...

Mine are not stock, cost me at swap meet 10.00 new clips were 15.00 kit that mounts both moldings...little tweak needed for the rear to mount same as factory rear clips...quick and easy. Mine are a bit more custom with a couple other embellishments from stuff lying about. Walk about an older yard or attend a show or two...you be amazed at what you can adapt...