Plymouthy Adams

Lots of pros and cons to the car shows as pointed out here. The number one reason for me not to attend is the locked up period where the car is not allowed to be moved because of the risk due to foot traffic of the event. I hate the idea of sitting about babysitting a car and locked in place. The fees for the owners to enter their cars is over the top when compared to the free to public foot traffic. Food venders off the wall cost and yes I know they paying space and often percentage of gross for the captured audience. Venders are often liable to the owner of the facility and nothing back to the clubs. For funding for the club, sometimes a good revenue maker, often a break even event, hopefully no losses. I still prefer the come and go with no fanfare and formalities of the show event with no awards that is the local cruise-ins. My last awards show I attended was 2003...truly do not care to return to that atmosphere.

Current version of the forum, semantic(s) was used 2-7-2007 and you can keep your worn fan belt, search showed 21 uses of the word. Now back to bed, got a car to drive to look at in the morning.

Was not sure if you were a person who did qualified testing of lifts and cranes. When and if you do find yourself wanting to build or lift safely, there are formulas. Often not that easy to find. The single biggest issue was finding how to establish working limits. The beam is one set of numbers, working rate is a percentage of that. Doing the math it was 69.7% of max beam deflection. DO NOT search using the word test....I found this formula only when I read on PROOFING crane capacity. Jib crane, gantry and well, all different cranes have a formula, it is different on style crane, formula is different with steel verse aluminum. I have recorded these simple figures....nothing hard about it excepting finding information. I worked my formula and wished to rate it well below what might be max capacity. I have a second gantry crane I have built but have not erected, it is much heavier built unit and will test it one day down the road. I modifed the car rotesserie to also be a gantry. Base is factory rated for 3K..I will test the beam and bases. Bases have another formula altogether for concentrated deflection also just as a FYI OSHA will test by deflection, they will base this on the established value on the data tag. In the absence of any tag, they will default to the very formula I used and technically you only need one measurement. Any crane that was modified and or repaired must again be proofed. Trust me, I put a lot of research into building this crane, making it not only a decent looking unit, but safe for load and the lifter.

private owned gantry private built....I tested per established parameters of the metal used and not like most you see on you-tube who measure but not against a calculated deflection. Proofing is testing safe repeating working capacity based again on the industry formulas for a steel beam. Added weight and read beam deflection by dial indicator as I continued to add weight and read deflection. The dial indicator lets you can see the deflection as it is laden as well as you can see the weight read out as you make the lift adding the weight during the lift. Then weight was taken to 25% over working rate and again well below the established limit of a steel beam by industry established formula. My working rate is well below formula calculated working rate and less than half the rating for possible beam stress where spring may be distorted or lost. If you can show me where this is wrong then I am all ears....

For the record...today was crane proofing day. My crane scale came in and set the unit for testing. Target goal for working capacity I set at 1000 lbs as this pus the 25% additional, is just shy the rating of my trolley. max allowed defection .240 inch max working load deflection .166 1056 load was .091 deflection 1250 (with weight of chainfall 1265) .106 deflection unladen, returns to zero...repeat lift, repeat deflection and weight and again returns to zero I will state I have met my goal of a 1K gantry and safety tested to working capacity plus 25% with a deflection margin of .060 for working and .134 before I-beam damage would be likely. I will eventually test this to 1500 lbs. but will need to move it to another location for this. I feel good about this build now.

I thought everyone was already using a piece of PVC or other piece of hollow round stock....but if not in past and fail to do so in the future...then for sure, be it on their heads. Good post....hopefully will be read and heeded to some degree.

must have been the warning.....DON'T LOOK and, you didn't.....just yanking you a bit on that....I looked at the thread....it would run on life support a bit but I would not have invested the time. Got fatter fish to fry that will return greater happiness.

....this was just posted a week or so back if I recall....

white wall are not paint but vulcanized rubber to the tire casing in making the tire. Many white wall can be cleaned with special cleaner for that or many just simply use a brillo pad. Many use bleach but have been told this is not a good process for the rubber. I personally use a product that goes by the name of B52 Brown Bomber Soap. That stuff is good and I have seen it removed the bronze glaze from 100 year old glass when nothing else would touch it. Other cleansers work well and you can actually use the hand cleaner with pumice. But paint on a vulcanized whitewall....a no-go for me. NOW if I missed something and these are faux white wall and originally painted...then forget what I said, I was never here...

not a Plymouth but process to repair and refinish will be about the same.....I so wanted this banjo wheel, took a a few repairs with PC-7, couple mods to set the spokes to display 10-2-6 instead of factory 8-12-4 Last thing I needed was a spoke sticking up in view.....never saw why that was so popular with the original maker. Also this wheel never had the horn center stock, had to prep the wheel for that small mod also.

some folks just had a tough time shaking the T-model days and ways

many folks have their own method and routine on brake bleeding.....I for one will not pump the brakes until the very final step. I will vacuum bled solo....if I have a helper, the method is to have them slowly press the pedal down while I open the bleeder then secure before instructing them to slowly let the pedal come back up. Do this till you see no air bubbles in the see through bleeder hose you hopefully are using so to keep the fluid off the floor and underside of the car and tires. This method prevent aeriation of the fluid from premature pumping you will do for those last couple bubbles. As for hooking it up dry, your unit should have some assembly preservative/lube and would not hurt to place it on the bench and allow fluid to enter the chamber just to active and wet the seals...wetting the seals would be my first concern here...not air.

as your residuals are inline and not in the master you should not have issues

horns were tweaked by ear in the absence of an amp meter....you can tweak by amp draw if using a meter as a guide while still listening to the tone of the horn....the book shows 32-38 amps and that should be BOTH horns. (later 111 wheel base cars only came with one horn per note in book) Depending on the actual voltage available, battery or higher with car running and generator output, your resistance should be near the .3 ohm rating given the amperage stated as combined in the book. Tone will be by trumpet length. The book only states to set the horn by tone with the other horn disconnected. I suspect that they figured the average car owner not owning an accurate amp meter. If setting by meter...you will be near that 18 amps per horn. The horn with the higher resistance is suspect....remove the cover, clean the points, verify good clean ground and open the contact....adjust to correct tone or amperage when tightening the adjuster..

all failures happed at the worse time it seems...however I do agree, you definitely define 'worse' with that scenario...

lots of different folks go different ways on ignition upgrades...some are effective, some are troublesome and some are just too 'rigged' to ever find favor in my eye but can ultimately be configured to work and be less problematic and affordable way beyond the 'roll of the dice' PerTronix where with/when failure if you do not carry a spare module, you stranded for as long as it takes to source and order in. Shipping these days with many using third party packer/handlers....add 3-5 extra days. For me, the first is still the first and let you go from there.

I would think first to find the replacement bush....then easy is only as you see the task once completed Just remembered, with the Forward Look crowd, this bush may be readily available...and maybe in poly. Poly gives less....one would work it into the capture of the bracket then well lube the bar and hole to slide the assembly together....

similar manner a bicycle crank lever is set on the crank pin......look close at the picture inset above....you see this taper is referencing the FLAT..

there is so much difference between the Plymouth manual and the Dodge...I have both, the Dodge book looks like new...my Plymouth book stays by the computer in case I can use it to help here now and then and you can tell it has been handled a bit. The Plymouth manual has way more details on the average.

the pin is shown as a taper, would not guess the amount of said taper.......the smaller end IS NOT staked, only the larger end....to remove...drive the pin from opposite of the stake. Good pictures of this in the repair if you have that available...if not maybe someone with a scanner can get that copied and pasted. Not sure if this will show well but tried to do a photo see inset that shows the taper pin....

For sure, Summit is also another good source for these kits.....he will likely want the buy a generic transmission cross member also... Chevrolet Parts and Accessories at Summit Racing

I sold a mount kit to a guy in Canada of what you are looking for so long ago as that was the direction the prior owner intended to go....I sold all the GM stuff he accumulated and came with the so far unbutchered car and went pure Mopar....I traced the very plates that were the weld in mounts....but it would be a miracle for me to find where they could be at this time. I am spraying some topcoat today on a few trinkets for the current project....if my mind should lock onto a possible place I stored this drawing.....will let you know. There are a number of SBC kits on e-bay that are what is generic/universal...perhaps he or you could cruise the listings....

that question might get you an invitation to a NECKTIE party.....? that has been done so many times...I am surprised you could not pick these items up off the side of the road where it had fallen out....I poke fun....many of these guys have dropped off as suppliers....getting things fabricated for a store front is not what it once was with cost of material going off the wall and the fact many of the back/support shops just don't wish to work these days. One supplier told me after the current stock is sold, may not be another for just the above reasons I mentioned. Engine mounts are truly not hard to make, am sure you know that and just rather spend the dime verse spend the time. Good luck

might be time to trade these glasses in for a new pair.....

might explain his three speed reverse......?