Plymouthy Adams

Anytime you take an item to a machine shop, you should carry the component the machining action is intended for proper fit. The machinist will then know exactly what he is working with. Lesson learned I am sure with the aftermarket king pin diameter...maybe for a small tweaking fee the machine shop will adjust the initial job for the correct fit.

Above is good stuff and even easier, more cost effective and available if you wish to use a CV style lubricant....buy a tube of your chassis lube at your big box or w-world, milk it down to the consistency you desire with motor oil by stirring in a bit of oil at a time to get your mix....very very inexpensive and have has zero issues with this for the past 35+ years having first used this mix servicing Porsche CV joints. And yes, all these years later, the grease is good as is the CV joint. I use a moly/lithium grease and I also keep a mixture of this on hand in a lidded container with a hole in the top for the acid brush to store there also, excellent for assembling where a light coat of grease is desired. For break in I have a huge container of powdered molybdenum disulfide that I make a paste with using motor oil....have never wiped a cam on break in using this stuff and that is using a cam from another engine on swap. Good stuff....the powder is a tad expensive these days.....got mine surplus at the Army/Navy store long ago. 8.00 a quart container.

Georgia allows them and I have these on 5 of my cars currently...

not the way I see it....they are hooking the binder to the Dodge as the binder needed help as it could not even make it over the small snow berm along the edge of the road in order to go off-roading....

Like your colors.....

the files were not removed as they are posted on the off topic page where it should be, there or the download page would have worked also.

OF A NOTE the rubber freeze plug you find are designed for the CUP style cast holes...for sure the rubber will work but only after you split it because the rubber is so thick there is no room for the rubber, backer washer and bolt to allow adequate and flush application of the outer washer against the block as the inner segment will be against the inner wall. Good to carry one that you have modified as a GET-ME-HOME emergency repair and fit a new disc as you get the chance.

many repairs are simple and easy as explained from the armchair or computer desk.....many remember doing these years ago...many are in denial they are aging and less flexible and the big S on the T-shirts faded also so long ago......lol

Dylan had it right, the times they are a changing.................I will only attend a cruise in any more....no classes, no judging just good company from what is 95% the owners did their own cars....there are later model show up like the Whorvettes and Twangers but they automatically park further away and collectively amongst themselves....rather talk with a builder any day over that of a buyer...the little British car owners, a few show and that is always fun. The local club however are 95% or better all check writers on buying a car or paying others to do the maintenance...hard to relate here.

if using a hand held propane torch...will not be effective to heat the stud enough. You will need an oxy/acete. torch, heat cherry red....let cool a bit, heat it a second time cherry red and when it loses it reddish color...try back it out then and SUGGEST an actual stud wrench for this also. Two heat cycles are often enough to break/vaporize the rust bond.

at no time have you stated any current or voltage reading with your testing.....

just how bad is the pan? I see some holes near the trunk latch...it also looks quite scaly in the actual pan but looks as the wheel well is solid as this had drain holes already and has done its job of not letting water stand....if little pressure will allow a push through of an ice pick..yeah, candidate for complete pan. Most pans when made for replacement allows X distance up along the curved portion that likely was not expose to long standing water...it is this point you wish to cut and use as solid metal to full perimeter weld your pan and based solely on the foot print of the replacement item. If making this yourself, this is how you go about finding the CUT line and establish the parameters for you to fabricate your own.

Virginia is very mindful of any car passing through as easy prey it seems.....thankfully when passing through the state it is the very narrow neck and so short visit to the state. Now I am not singling out Virginia, other states do such as well. I was once ticketed for parking in a town with my out of state tags and was very mindful of the law. Street sweeper must have unblocked passaged x hour to x hour. I moved my car before the allotted time and this time found a street that was not posted in said fashion for street sweepers, I got a ticket....I complained that I followed the times and signs to a letter and that on top of that I place a pebble atop a residents tire from a long parked car. I got a ticket he did not and the pebble was still in place. I got an apology and notice the ticket has been voided, thanks for visiting our wonderful state. Clearly I was singled out as an out-of-towner and I was even running an active military person tag, a real thank you veteran. Wonder how much money they make daily from such as this. Just another example of harvesting the low hanging fruit.

they figure Dodge owners are smart enough to color within the lines.....?

suggest you do not take it to the grocery store....would have to mortgage the house to fill that sucker up with food items.....!!!!!!

see officer, who would have thought such a small dot could cause that much problem with all the effect lighting on the cars today, changing color halos and what not...

If illegal in the state....yes...you screaming for unwanted attention running them. One never knows the 'daily' mood of the local LEOs. I have blue dots and YOM tags on a few of my vehicles...main factor for blue dots....availability of lenses to modify....and if glass...not everyone has the ability to drill the units.

My son gave me a drill and impact of this brand last year for my birthday....I have found battery tools have come a long way than when first introduced to them so I rounded out the set. I was in barn check the application of a customizing piece I found for the 544 Volvo and spied this rack sitting nearby. I quickly customized it a bit for storing the tools and the step drills/socket adapters and of course accessories that are part of the kit. This allows me to keep the other brand drill and impact in the high bay of the barn for when working out there.

I installed three dog bones on my FWD Austin....guess a number of things can be called that due to the basic shape...but for my application, they are stabilizer bars. One top center on the cylinder head....one on each side of the transmission which is in the engine oil pan.

I think at times we all guilty of the bad weather shopping.....this was what I snagged on our last cloud burst day......

maybe this post will find it a deserving home....owning a Powerflite myself, I am very much pleased with their performance and was one of the two reasons I bought the car, first it had never been dinked with and totally stock, second the automatic...

I have not seen one of them since a kid working at the local gas station when in high school....I think I will keep an eye peeled for one of these when at the swap meets this spring. Thanks for the memory jog.

you can get a piece of square stock and an 8 point socket and do the deed....you can also find a cheapo 3/8 short extension and file it down to fit. Just whatever you make, mark it and bag it for later use.

yeah...came across something similar with LED applications just recently....while nice...they not always what they are touted to be for sure....the biggest problem is lack of specifications in a language you can understand...

I suppose...if these were not available and economically priced, I could see a need to change/upgrade...whereas this upgrade was done many years ago to address the one year design of the rectangular lens....the bulb however continued forward....until sealed beam.