Plymouthy Adams

amazing the time that often flies by between drives.....this winter was a bit rough for most all in terms of adverse weather conditions....I took one of my cars to the cruise in first of the month and realized it had been 5 months since I did some service to the hydraulic and put it back to bed.

50 Fastback................check your inbox....I posted a few links to some of my step by step pictorials that are already here on the forum....

the car body is layers of steel that are connected usually by the spot welds. To repair, and doing said repair by making your own panels, yes I also suggest smaller segments removed at a time. I also suggest full perimeter welds of the replaced parts. The body on your car is a bit more gone than many in the area of the kick panel, floor and inner rocker and below the quarter light is typical of this year vehicle also. I salvage a 51 Plymouth Suburban that did look very much like your damage. The task is not all that hard but some of the standing on your head to weld will qualify you for the Olympic gymnastics team. I could send you some pic but would not post here....close to maxing out my photo allocation. IF interested, send me a PM with your e-mail....and as stated...working one segment at a time. I however recommend the front at the cowl to begin as so much is going on here that ties the body together. Making your panels will not be hard with bead roller....but you may wish to have another set of hands to turn the crank as you guide the metal. It can get involved. Outer rockers should be readily available C2C should be able to help. DO NOT EXPECT perfect fits even with shaped panels...it has been 30+ years since I have seen factory replacement rockers. The rear pan under the quarter lights will likely continue into the wheel opening with your repairs...again, layers fixing the deepest layer first cutting a tad beyond the next layer so you will have good metal to weld the next layer in place.

welcome back and hoping you can stick with the project for a spell. I know fully well how easy it is for life events to throw you a curve ball and take you away from working your projects. I stalled a few days on a current project trying to get actual dimensions as the samples I had were not as we say, falling into place or making sense. Am moving forward again as of this afternoon.

we need the equivalent of SAE for software....

perhaps this short read will be of help to you..... Four Stroke Theory of Operation Flashcards | Quizlet

driveshaft universal cover

would you believe...?? missing it by that much means.....you looking at a small map.........

you do not have to identify the 54 engine on any serial number of production car...being the only year Plymouth offered the 218 and the 230 as straight 6 engine available, the engine is stamped special to indicate the 230 distinction, the DIAMOND you see stamped ahead of the series/design number....this is 230 and only 1954 engines will ever have this mark.

I think you may want to look at online buying....that is extremely high for a servo motor. I also think you will like the control you will get instantly with this set up.....I bought a Consew brand and I think at the time it was just 129.00 Seriously thinking of changing the Singer model to servo motor.

I have to admit I could never get the hang of the clutch on my walking foot machines, the older Singer I have, not so bad...the new machine, PITA so I broke down and put a servo motor on it and tamed the beast....heck sewing almost fun now.

nah.....they just have good agenda driven lobbyists......

HOW.....as it is, majority of the time the turning of the wheel in the manner of street driving the worm gears are meshing and remaining in and about center. This is where the initial and most wear over the ages has taken place. Enter the wrench and the manner to try to set the worm now close to the gear in this area to remove this play and most are successful in doing this, but, the problem arises when you now turn the wheel more and outside this worn area and there is now no free play between the gears and instead you get moderate to heavy binding depending on the amount of wear that was adjusted out midrange. This hard steering in this manner will accelerate wear now and quicky your mid range slop will likely be back to visit. Also the steering may not want to return to center without you the operator forcibly turning the wheel back the other way.

Anytime you take an item to a machine shop, you should carry the component the machining action is intended for proper fit. The machinist will then know exactly what he is working with. Lesson learned I am sure with the aftermarket king pin diameter...maybe for a small tweaking fee the machine shop will adjust the initial job for the correct fit.

Above is good stuff and even easier, more cost effective and available if you wish to use a CV style lubricant....buy a tube of your chassis lube at your big box or w-world, milk it down to the consistency you desire with motor oil by stirring in a bit of oil at a time to get your mix....very very inexpensive and have has zero issues with this for the past 35+ years having first used this mix servicing Porsche CV joints. And yes, all these years later, the grease is good as is the CV joint. I use a moly/lithium grease and I also keep a mixture of this on hand in a lidded container with a hole in the top for the acid brush to store there also, excellent for assembling where a light coat of grease is desired. For break in I have a huge container of powdered molybdenum disulfide that I make a paste with using motor oil....have never wiped a cam on break in using this stuff and that is using a cam from another engine on swap. Good stuff....the powder is a tad expensive these days.....got mine surplus at the Army/Navy store long ago. 8.00 a quart container.

Georgia allows them and I have these on 5 of my cars currently...

not the way I see it....they are hooking the binder to the Dodge as the binder needed help as it could not even make it over the small snow berm along the edge of the road in order to go off-roading....

Like your colors.....

the files were not removed as they are posted on the off topic page where it should be, there or the download page would have worked also.

OF A NOTE the rubber freeze plug you find are designed for the CUP style cast holes...for sure the rubber will work but only after you split it because the rubber is so thick there is no room for the rubber, backer washer and bolt to allow adequate and flush application of the outer washer against the block as the inner segment will be against the inner wall. Good to carry one that you have modified as a GET-ME-HOME emergency repair and fit a new disc as you get the chance.

many repairs are simple and easy as explained from the armchair or computer desk.....many remember doing these years ago...many are in denial they are aging and less flexible and the big S on the T-shirts faded also so long ago......lol

Dylan had it right, the times they are a changing.................I will only attend a cruise in any more....no classes, no judging just good company from what is 95% the owners did their own cars....there are later model show up like the Whorvettes and Twangers but they automatically park further away and collectively amongst themselves....rather talk with a builder any day over that of a buyer...the little British car owners, a few show and that is always fun. The local club however are 95% or better all check writers on buying a car or paying others to do the maintenance...hard to relate here.

if using a hand held propane torch...will not be effective to heat the stud enough. You will need an oxy/acete. torch, heat cherry red....let cool a bit, heat it a second time cherry red and when it loses it reddish color...try back it out then and SUGGEST an actual stud wrench for this also. Two heat cycles are often enough to break/vaporize the rust bond.

at no time have you stated any current or voltage reading with your testing.....

just how bad is the pan? I see some holes near the trunk latch...it also looks quite scaly in the actual pan but looks as the wheel well is solid as this had drain holes already and has done its job of not letting water stand....if little pressure will allow a push through of an ice pick..yeah, candidate for complete pan. Most pans when made for replacement allows X distance up along the curved portion that likely was not expose to long standing water...it is this point you wish to cut and use as solid metal to full perimeter weld your pan and based solely on the foot print of the replacement item. If making this yourself, this is how you go about finding the CUT line and establish the parameters for you to fabricate your own.