Plymouthy Adams

I sold a mount kit to a guy in Canada of what you are looking for so long ago as that was the direction the prior owner intended to go....I sold all the GM stuff he accumulated and came with the so far unbutchered car and went pure Mopar....I traced the very plates that were the weld in mounts....but it would be a miracle for me to find where they could be at this time. I am spraying some topcoat today on a few trinkets for the current project....if my mind should lock onto a possible place I stored this drawing.....will let you know. There are a number of SBC kits on e-bay that are what is generic/universal...perhaps he or you could cruise the listings....

that question might get you an invitation to a NECKTIE party.....? that has been done so many times...I am surprised you could not pick these items up off the side of the road where it had fallen out....I poke fun....many of these guys have dropped off as suppliers....getting things fabricated for a store front is not what it once was with cost of material going off the wall and the fact many of the back/support shops just don't wish to work these days. One supplier told me after the current stock is sold, may not be another for just the above reasons I mentioned. Engine mounts are truly not hard to make, am sure you know that and just rather spend the dime verse spend the time. Good luck

might be time to trade these glasses in for a new pair.....

might explain his three speed reverse......?

go with the molded and leave the generic ribbed flex hose for the Ferd and Chebbie boys......much nicer look....

you go to any forum....you see the same thing....Pertronix failure....sad but true....it is my opinion that if these were really good units, the OTC parts guys would be stocking these themselves and well, even if bad why are they not making a fortune selling replacements. Sorry but just my opinion that it seems I share with Adam.....I know many folks have had good luck with them, odds are Pertronix would buy these back to see where they went wrong selling a product that lasted. ?

Thanks for your update, many would not guess the personal involvement removing the silent blocks will be.....if you can find loaded shackles for a good price grab then if not for now...for down the road...these are getting ridiculously expensive given you find them at all. You doing good....glad to hear you finding stuff for retrofit that will at the same time give a bit of added performance for if you get the wild hair to goose it a bit.....

funny, the ones I got were Moog brand and a direct slip in.....no, I did not record the Moog number....could be a early verse late Valiant application. Sorry to have informed you wrongly...my apologies and my bad for not writing this number down. I only had to cut for length to meet in the center of the spring eye. As for the front eyes of the leaf springs....these are not just slip in bushing...these are called a silent block...sleeve and rubber within another metal sleeve that is pressed into the spring eye...now if yours has been changed to push in bushing in the past....you may need to continue with such replacements. Removing the original spring eye is not a simple knock out might I add. As for poly, yeah tougher stuff.....I just rebuilt a British car front and rear suspension with all poly bushings, I know the trade off for better handling will be the resultant stiffer ride and contributing road noise transfer.

unless our front spring eye bush is falling apart....I do not suggest just randomly changing them. In the manner they are made stock, am not sure any poly with sleeve will be an improvement here.

this is my shield in place

for sure the rear will affect the front so do inspect this area well looking for broken springs etc. DO pay close attention to the shackles and their related bushings for being worn/egged out over time. The later Plymouth Valiant bushes are easily had and fit when trimmed a bit in length as the later springs are a bit wider in the eyes. I have replaced the front spring eye bushing as a routine rebuild but never have I HAD to replace them...seems these fair well over the course of time and a dog often best left sleeping.

If I recall, the Plymouth was the RTS and Dodge was the Scat Pack, they have revived the Scat Pack..read the article with a grain of salt.....the Dart is NOT a Plymouth....it is a Dodge, thus part of the Scat Pack, had they written SCAMP them maybe I would look at the article in another light....Them saying Plymouth fielded 4 customs with the Dart included...just another hype article. There are no details of the drivetain.....Yahoo needs better writers.

with all due respect, tax and shipping, you would be better advised to check with the company you are entertaining buying the harness.

what is your ohm reading across the tank sender term 1 - 2.....next, what is term 1 to ground and then term 2 to ground and does the combined 1 + 2 when read to ground equal the reading across term 1 and 2 ? the two wire system pulls the needle in both directions at the same time

spiffy looking unit for sure.....where is the stain and tung oil....? ?

after a bit of a dry spell locating metal in the local scrapping yard....I got lucky and got the remaining metal for the gantry crane. So after a bit more fabrication, welding and painting, running up a bolt or two.....am calling this puppy done.

I think that tube rather small at the opening and will allow a good deal of your water to cool front of then engine over that of the rear...but sheer volume may make up for it.....just my thoughts......

not even had it a week and you have already run over your dog...

That is a first I have seen....aren't you the lucky one. ?

I pace myself with coffee, one pot in the morning, one pot in the afternoon and often, another before going to bed at night.....rarely ever less that two pots a day even in summer. I rarely will drink a soda....usually treat myself to one from the Mennonite country store on the way home from the wrecking yard pick and pull runs. I remember well when Mountain dew first came out with the hillbilly ad....my how times have changed.....lol

dash lights......dim...dimmer....lol

I do not bother with it.....you will see so little use of it these day. Technically these were used to prevent metal fatigue as I understand it for application where the body has the line mounted, the frame has isolation mounts...some flex/vibrations occur...most all of your lines will be hard fixed to the chassis except where the rubber flex line will make up for any movement/vibrations. Your call, but I do not think you going to find any to overlay your new tubing.

I can say my 58 did not have the neutral safety switch, for this era it was only common on the one equipped with an automatic....odds are you may not have a reverse light switch either. Yes the round pressure switches commonly found on the T's of the brake lines function as your brake light switch.

3/16 all the way...

there was no scouting where and when I grew up....might be why I found army basic training so much fun.!