Plymouthy Adams

don't forget the R10 unit has it's own separate fill and drain plugs as that of the transmission.

what did Bernbaum have to say about this besides, sorry send it back or shazam we sent the wrong part. My speedline can only supply the mopar number, 670 752 (neopreme without felt) this is the cross I found Performance Part Superseded Part Number 1671763 Country/Region of Manufacture United States OE/OEM Part Number 670752, 1486096, 1550929 Interchange Part Number Victor 49318, Victor 49075, Trostel A85037S, Trostel A48074S, Chicago Rawhide 15620, National 471827

My neighbor sprayed his Chevy with rust remover..good stuff....

as an aside, check carefully about the main gasketing areas, compressor low/high ports, the relief valve, the receiver dryer, condenser and the connectors at both evaporators given you have rear air. Check also for a leaking trinary switch. To check the evaporator you probe the ducts nearest the evaporator you can get. AC with some charge, operate, turn off let stand (no air movement) listen for detection.

a halogen sniffer is very inexpensive.....

you have no need for lead substitute in this flathead with factory hardened valve seats

is this a rubber needle or a metal needle? most are rubber and look to possible alcohol or other additives you may be putting in the tank as a preservative giving you fits.....

there is the problem, no AC.....?

at this day and age and given the manner many things may be done in less than a perfect environment, if one is taking a part out of a box that looks old, damage, dirty or mishandled, you are doing yourself and your car a disservice by not taking it down for inspection, clean and reassembly. Especially in the area of the brakes we cleanliness is everything...where brake fluid is the assembly lube and we all know it has hygroscopic properties. If this is you, then be it on you. Could be the difference between an enjoyable outing and the high ride back on the flatbed given you make it back at all. Not saying this happens but without a bit of an inspection, the likelihood is greater.

if you do not have the tools, hopefully you will get them....there is no substitute for the proper tool only one that could be your next accident.

I still think it is good your order was cancelled. If a seller has passed and was as I read it had a protege assisting, the status of the offered sales/service needed to be upgrade to the forum. Little is as aggravating as trying to contact with a shop no longer in business.

acclimate folks....get out, get busy and let the sweat do it's magic......the poisons have left the body....! Just do stay hydrated....work a bit rest a bit...good for the body, good for the mind when you do relax a bit at the end of the day and look back at what you accomplished.

to that end if you did order on the 18th of June and it hasn't shipped by Aug. 3....yeah way to long....good thing that facebook has your back in my opinion.

I'd go with cork rubberized cork will work as well...your call, the chest is high on the block, there is sufficient valley/sump within that there is really little worry of flooded with oil and leaking like a sieve.

tappet chest gaskets......really telling my age here..

No, not off the top of my head I would have to probably ask also or do some research.

you are tagging in on a silent block thread....the silent block and shackle bushings are two distinctly different animals, the silent blocks do need pressed in and are a pain to removed. I changed a set of silent blocks, the blocks were not bad it turns out but they were by the time I got them out....on inspection next time around with spring rebuild, the silent block stayed as there rarely by my experience are damaged.

for the shackle end, that is correct...

what was the tailwind speed and down hill grade? lol I kid of course. Many folks would never push one of these old cars for love nor money.

I'd be depressed also running at those lower speeds....

we have high temp and higher humidity.....am wet sanding the roof of a project car today, found I just need to wring out my t-shirt for water.....lol Of course I am not but could be done! Many folks sitting about doing nothing. Like you, taking advantage of morning and evening hours....today with the huge storm that came through, temps are moderate for the minute...will not be this way tomorrow.

the basic design is solid, if the drum is centric and flush, there is no mechanical concerns really....now...as to the very part supplied as pictured...I have never had one in my hand to say it is built to fit properly. (this is likely what the B-body boys do with the pre 65 muscle car axles and hubs. I will say this....on the P15 when removing the drum from the hub, you will find a step that will have to be removed on a lathe to make the hub register correct so the very base of the hub the drum will fit flush and align. I just last fall did a hub separation, lathe cut and fitted 1989 brake drum but went the extra mile to also fit the donor backing plate, will be one or two other small mods to match plate to housing...sacrifice of the originals for the seals. The average person would not this route and stick with the fixed shoes but floaters and self adjusters are the only way to go. I have about 13 pictures of this process.

this style of drum and hub has been Mopars go to since 1965..(and most the industry)..where the difference is mainly bolt over stud...many manufacturers using this set up also keep the drum to the hub from falling off by use of at best a 1/4-28 countersunk screw....and the small screw I have never see broken or damaged except by using the wrong fitting tool for removal

I will add but one more comment to the folks entering this hobby or any hobby for that matter, but the accelerated cost in this hobby can get out of control quick and spiral downward and leave one feeling hostage. Price of parts is just a small part of the costs, you have shipping to consider. Receiving parts that are not up to parr in design and application. The aggravation of dealing with that and backing up as you search for another alternative will have you questioning is this worth it. IT IS WORTH IT but, if you are not a DIYer with the skill sets, time and space to work nor willing to read how things work, and embrace new needed skills to learn and put into place and instead farm this out, you are going to be upside down leaving the starting gate. However, as a DIYer and one that is proactive in chasing parts, constantly staying abreast of the changing industry, adapting and overcoming by learning and building confidence you cand do this, you can be very successful with your build. Stick around here a bit, you can research this forum for almost any phase or item of the intended build on your car and get guidance to move forward without breaking the bank or the car and most importantly, your resolve to see this through. Good luck, keep your chin up and prepare now to finish the race.

pay to play if you wish it stock, if you want to upgrade a bit axles and disc brakes can be had for little money tad of sweat equity....cost of living going up, change of living going down