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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams
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while usually forbidden and in the absence of the exact tool for the job.....a ball peen hammer with the ball against the disc and then carefully struck with another hammer will dimple these right nicely....remember, we not driving railroad spikes into an anvil here....
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I snicker because it is funny.....why else....it is not the history of the visor I am snickering at, that is not the history as it is, follow along a bit, the low drag coefficient car making a run...I am laughing at the ratter guys driving chin in chest eye straining up just to see forward.....their discomfort to look cool...priceless...
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I would agree with you on the louvers.....these are so way overdone on cars. I have a stock 1974 car with a louvered hood from the factory...it is a basket case hood and the first replacement part I went looking for, the manner they made the louvers with no real provision for draining, pure oversight and looks before function. This is for a car that was built by hand over a 10 year run and only 6408 produced total.
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no..thinking transmission, just maybe not only 1st gear is affected.
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does it make the same noise if you pull off in second gear? this will give you a bit more indication as to what may have gone awry.
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spot a pine cone on a tree branch....pull up a few behind the limb....if you can see the pine cone, you will readily see the light.....(pun intended) actually this would impress me if you could focus on the limb.
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not to pass air into the carb, this is the passage for the vacuum piston and thus provides vacuum FROM the manifold to react upon the piston to meet load conditions as needed.
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if you traveling 70 and it comes off it will be doing 70 if but for an instance....I lost one when towing on a trailer....I get this car pull alongside of me and tell me something fell from my car. I stopped but did not pick up on the visor gone till I got home with the tow some 160 miles later. Fortunately I was traveling this road often and next weekend on my return I slowed down and limped the shoulder looking for it. Not looking good, the mowers had just cut the grass. About to give up, crossed a small bridge over a creek and there it was about 10 foot beyond the bridge abutment, the mowers had stopped on the other side of the bridge. The odds of this still laying in plain view after a week....I should have bought a lotto ticket also. To my knowledge this has been the only item ever lost in a tow. I often strap hoods and deck lids as you have no idea the integrity of the latches....I remove trim that is suspect loose. I do not recall driving my 49 with visor to any speeds over 60 as I was never on the interstate with it, it was rock solid in place but again not a Fulton dogboner
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Andy, thanks for weighing in, most folks can easily recognize the work in progress...over the work around in progress....always have like the double panes in the rear....my Morris will have that...but they called cargo doors....lol
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as you going to rebuild this given it is good inside, heating the nuts will not hurt the cast iron cylinder.....you will want to replace the frozen up packing nut and more than not a new line so you will not have to revisit this in short order....stitch in time sort of thing.....or pay me now or pay me later.
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on some cars I admit these set the car off real nicely, others they can be a distraction....I am likely to put the visor I have here on the Suburban, but it is not the dog bone Fulton style. It also had leading edge stainless trim that will break up the "overbite...." The Fulton in the barn will likely hang there till kingdom come. Overall though, I think it is an accessory that is over overdone on this era car, dual spots, even if faux, skirts and the Hull compass which I will give anyone a pass on the Hull compass I suppose. Not that fond of the cupcake model compass that is more at home on the boat than the car...but again, just expressing myself. Nothing wrong with any accessory really, and it is your car. Just that one of these is JUST like the other and why I never go to car shows to see the cars. I will attend the cruise in and talk with like-minded people on techie stuff. Accessories fall into the category of those that French the lights front/rear or antenna etc...just overdone. The ratters as much as I hate to say it have some imaginative mods, many done without finesse, but the thought is there and to date I have seen but one skillfully built ratter....it had the look of a ratter but look close, it had all the detail and craftsmanship of many custom built/painted rod and really stood out. .
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when troubleshooting or stating values.....that decimal points screams trouble loud and clear...goes a long way in establishing the truth eliminating any confusion with readers...maybe others assumed, maybe they did not know....but with older equipment, older leads and connections messing with used components....remove the assumptions and guessing.
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I honestly could not say one way or the other...newest of this era car for me is a 54 and it is a factory automatic....then I jump to 1962 factory big block cars. These are also automatics. Once will be slated for a later model Magnum and 5 speed on the floor...I will use the factory donor pedal column and collapsing steering link. Not having either in view, I would only see a conflict at the z-bar connection where you will need to maybe modify the linkage for the clutch, I would think the shifter and such as is should play forward. But again this is just happy thinking maybe.
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there was a good reason the industry moved to these....my preference is swinging pedal but only with drivetrain upgrades is it worth the effort.
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back in the days of yore good set of points were the norm. Today the breaker cam has gone from the tried and true long last phenolic rubbing block to that of plastic, given the condenser does not fail first, for sure the rubbing block will go in short order. The two-part construction of some brands have confused a few owners who left the second tension spring off the contactor and ended up with point bounce. Sign of the times, cost of living going up, chance of living going down.
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yeah....Bonneville, one run out, one return run......repeat as necessary....lol Seriously though if they happy I am tickled pink, do I snicker, you bet!
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I've been amazed at times and baffled also by the install of these among other fad options. While they work great for their intention, the times now in my opinion make these more a safety hazard than the cosmetic or cool provides. Back in the day you had very few stop light compared to now. Compounded with this/similar visor on a ratter or like built vehicle where the body is channeled, the roof is chopped and the driver now has his chin buried in his chest and any ability to see upward has been sacrificed to looking forward only and it is a strain even then. You see these guys driving by with this posture of the upper body knowing also that their knees are often sitting much higher than the seat bottom at awkward angles to the steering wheel...the drive is not worth the look but again...just my observation.
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agree on visibility limited but it is not the size of the glass, it is the manner in which it is obstructed...preventing the ability to look up and only be able to see forward..
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1950 Chrysler Town & Country Circuit Breakers
Plymouthy Adams replied to Chip Boyd's topic in P15-D24 Forum
yes they both reset when cooled after tripping....jumper power to one side, put a 30 amp load on the other, the one that does not open up is the 30 amp load...the 8 amp should open real quick like..... -
tread carefully here as the main thing folks overlook in performance cam installs is that the power on tap at the speeds the engine will see on the street causes for a loss of actual HP on tap at these speeds over stock, so for street use, many often lose. Now driving like you stole it, holding gears longer and keeping the engine in the upper RPM you now will see and feel the addition power. The trade off is not worth it if you do not push the engine....cam change is all about your intended use of the engine...at what levels will you be using the vehicle.....however go radical with the changes and lose all around, moderate change will net you some improvements on the upper end performance and still allow street use without harsh idle and low speed lugging.
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I see you have now successfully placed the decimal point.....
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first, ensure your tester is up to the task and not with issues due to older components in its construction or losses/gains in test leads and connections.....comparing your older unit with a newer unit that is so commonly available or perhaps one owned by a friend will go a long way in the trust department. Without some known standards to bounce across your is likely just a guess.
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while the spec is not in the book specifically the value is typically in the .18 to .27 uF for many condensers......if it is any help the book does call for .25uF for a 1961 slant 6...
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Mk1 Mod II, cut another 5 3/4 inches off the top of the uprights of the above picture work stand which is a modified clothes rack....more comfortable work height and this places it so much easier for me to see the primer finish after i block and squeegee the primer.....staying busy, it is staying wet and rainy