Plymouthy Adams

My first rendition of the cargo floor I got what I was shooting for but it turned out it was not what I really wanted. So today, I revisited the cargo floor today and refinished the original wood and then moved on to installing a remnant of carpet complete with cut outs for the 4 tie downs I installed.

hey, it's an open forum and no one knows when and what the next guy may be typing.....I don't consider it as harm or foul...

As the largest post on the battery is the positive one and GIVEN your cables are on the car yet, simply trace the larger battery terminal, it it goes to the block it is + gnd. IF it goes to the starter solenoid...the vehicle has been changed to - gnd.

look in your PM box.....link sent

if you plan on running radials throw these caster measurements in the trash can...

if you have a question on the size of the seal verse the size of the shaft it rides on, what measurement did you arrive at and based on the tolerance of seal to shaft in most machining handbook, you should quickly arrive at your answer.

look carefully at the crank journal sizes

acetone is a fast drying wipe and likely not to soak in...personally I often wipe items I am about to spray with die with naphtha. Sure it is personal call and maybe what you have on hand. I would not use the alcohol as the substrate would remain to wet for too long.

the last item has been found....these T/S indicators were the cats meow for utilizing the same holes the boomerang mirrors as originally fitted to the fender. They are full functional with the T/S's of the Morris and were 100% plug and play into the factory harness. This was a total WIN for me with the removal of the fender mirrors and subsequent installation of the units on the doors. the group here did good picking these items out.....want to try to the interior upgrades....that would be a two page list, nah, not go there.

hey, you did good as the one you found is not readily seen in the photograph, the rocker moldings are beltline molding off the P23...bumper guards and turn signals are factory pieces for a Morris Minor,

You did good and when finished, knock it down and have the metal for the next project. I have a metal recycling place near me and they first sell as many parts off a car they take in before crushing it. I make out well not only in car parts but recycled metal like angle iron and such for my projects for pennies on the dollar as compared to other place, often on the metal the picking is limited...but have made off with some excellent deals.

one out of three is not bad......roof rack you got right, it's an altered Plymouth Voyager. Wipers are stock Morris and the mirrors are Ford. I had two set of Dodge mirrors but the larger foot print mounts and overall larger Dodge mirror heads took them out of the running for install. Items not guessed are from a P23 4 door and circa 70 C/P/D-D truck. This list the 4 items not made for the Morris as seen in the pic, (fog lights were available but these are aftermarket) there are three items at the rear not stock, third high mount brake light and the cut and altered step bumper and body flush mount reverse camera. These vans never got a factory bumper, I refuse to run without a bumper.

The van has been out and about for a few runs over the past couple weeks or so. Shake down runs if you will. First run to town resulted in me benching the unit for better mirrors as the wing mirrors were useless. With that done I got it back out and rear vision I may add, is excellent, do not look through the vent, nor is vent post is the view and with a passenger in the other seat, unobstructed view. Other folks fitting door or peep mirrors still list these issues with their mirrors. Moving on, my lane change results in a bit of dip, I have no dive in braking so I either have too much sidewall flex. Too light an oil in the shock or need a sway bar. Well benched for a few days as the sway parts all arrived and installed, it immediately correct 50% + of dip but I wish a bit stiffer. Will run it next with bit more air in the tires and trying to locate some higher viscosity shock oil without having to buy 1 or 5 gallon containers. The stance is in my opinion about 2-3 inches less that the profile I like in the rear and will install some air shocks to get the look I like. Other than that, she is checking out well, I am not having issues sifting left-handed as I thought I might. Three obvious Mopar parts shown....

you need to either learn to do this or find a capable shop to toss your money at....

I am thinking the 'auto correct' stuck here....I would suggest 'tail light king'

yes, I guess you probably could...

you neglect the fact I called two specific brand...these are calibrated....of course you squeeze them but you CANNOT over crimp....

I would suggest investing in a nice set of staking pliers....Klien or Stake-On brands come to mind... I like my dimmer switch....the little red button on the shift knob...and like most modern cars today, it is operated by the left hand as the car is RHD.....(the console I installed ahead of the shifter leaves zero room for the original switch and plinth)

I feel your pain but the only advice I can give, you need to start doing your own repairs....did you get your solenoid back from the man....?

could well be a Victorinox (trick photography) I once owned a Leica M4...too expensive to buy the accessories....so moved it to another owner and expanded on my other camera platform

till death do we part, don't push your luck...!!!

that is an elaborate jig but I also know 100% what it takes sometimes to achieve an end goal....keep at it, you are whittling it down a bit a time. So many sit back and talk about what it takes and never get started....you way into the game.

you show stock springs hangers and silent block, new shocks may be valved for a better reponsive ride...along with modern tires..other than that you not changed anything except weighted metal.

you have the true diamond in the rough.....excellent this came to you.....do it justice...we watching you...!

may be apples and oranges, but some numbered drawings/designs never make it to production and so the design number sequence represents the one selected. This I know is true in one particular design office for automobiles....may well be the manner in others. Where in the case of Plymouth, one design number is for the years the shorter wheelbase was produced alongside the larger chassis and thus car model is then different designation. HOWEVER the engine designation did not change for the shorter wheelbase and was that of the larger wheelbase car. In the only year that Plymouth offered two sizes of L6 engines did the larger engine get identified by addition of a special symbol.