Plymouthy Adams

Hey Keith, that is a 1968 Morris Minor LCV (light commercial vehicle) van bodied. It was originally exported to New Zealand in what they call a CKD (complete knock down) where it was assembled, then years later imported to the US from New Zealand, is RHD beast, Very much a dare to be different for sure....loads of fun. Kinda reminds you of the Dodge hump back panel.

check to ensure you are not running a 12 volt coil with internal resistor erroneous installed by the PO.....if it measures 3.4 ohms across the terminals...chunk it for a 1.4-1.7 ohm coil.

generator is also speed related on output and raising the speed from idle should increased the voltage to the fixed output set by the regulator. Do not overlook a loose belt also do not over tighten the belt either. The regulator should compensate for load when above idle....so if you putting out your approx 6.8-7.2 volts, and turn on the lamps, the amp meter should show a deflection toward discharge but quickly compensate for the current drain....again....engine speed and load go hand in hand.

if you do not have a repair manual, it is a good investment.... secondly there are many white papers online for these old systems to guide you along. Also, search of this forum will net many threads with related questions and fixes posted by the user.

sounds like some unnecessary steps assembling the engine....once the cover and hub is installed there should be no real reason to have to remove it again...but if you do, I could concede that point.

first off if your amp meter needle is not moving you have a dead battery or an open in the amp meter...it does not require the generator for it to show discharge, but will working generator/regulator needed to show charging....with the battery connected and the lights on the meter should indicate a heavy discharge....disconnecting a battery lead for quick test can confirm some output of the generator but is just that a quick test, proper diagnostics need to put forth to pin point any generator issues and these should be done in proper sequence. The factory book will easily walk you through this. You will need to determine a number of factors as right before assuming anything is wrong...battery, wiring, generator, regulator, fan belt etc etc.

if you over fill them or use explosives....but like anything else once the core casing has been violated, forget about it.....if they that questionable, look to upgrade...if just rollers and moving inside the shop....who cares if they bleed down in x hours....you got the move done. Otherwise I am hoping you not considering such casings for road use.

if all runs well when first started but acts up when hot after an engine stop and restart attempt in just a few minutes later....check for possible coil defective...weak spark...common problem.

but of course.....given you have a floor jack with a sufficient pad....for the record, most do...

the tool is a main feature of the engine, it is the crank shaft and pulley hub...you leave the bolts on the timing cover loose till the hub is installed on the crank thus aligning the timing cover and seal centric...then you snug up the bolts.

I bet she has difficulties grasping the concept of having to report to a physical address and stay there x hours for a pay check also.

many moons back we had a land fill that had a separate area for the wood from all other stuff.....it was free for the taking. I had snagged full size lumber, full sheets of plywood, and other misc building needs just for the time to load it in my truck. Nowadays, the liability issues prevents this. Greedy little pukes wanting to hit the insurance lotto.

creeper eliminators...three on hand.....

bearing can be bought by application and or physical dimension and type of seals integral to the unit

Good to see others taking time to contour in and weld up the panels for custom fit on modifications.....so tired of just holes in inner fenders or the sledge hammer look...👍

second the use of the 110 volt impact gun......my old Rockwell still performs where all others fall to the wayside. I never tighten with an impact, I like, have and use the battery tools for removing and running up, but torque wrench comes out then.

frankly trusting a stand to rest a car by supporting it by the wheels only is not my idea of being safe...would hate to read: He was steady at the wheel but the car was not. I can only recommend if blocking with items other than a proper jack stand to ensure you blocking on the chassis/axle. Sams wooden blocks are not made to fit beneath a tire. If he supports an axle tube, I would think a v notch would be nice to see also.

are you asking what is too high, cost of proper and safe jack stands or what is too high in terms of off the floor support....

stay away from stainless steel as it galls easily, you can do either grade 5 or 8 without galling.....grade 5 would suffice but would prefer grade 8....however break a grade 8 and drill out later may be a mother..... these can be yours in Australia for <60.00 US dollars for 20 each, but then I am not sure if your local feds will surcharge you on these.... Double-End Stud 3/8"-24 SAE x 1" -3/8"-16 USS x 5/8" - Box of 10 | eBay This is far ahead of the game for what I saw on e-bay oz

well I went online for e-bay Australia, you folks sure have a serious problem with the economy down there....feel for you for sure.....like Harrison Ford said in the movie, it's an island, if you didn't bring it here, you not going to find it here. A man could make a good living smuggling in bolts down there....lol

with the influx of the British made motor car of 50-70's and the later models being SAE over earlier models using Whitworth, I would not ever have thought finding SAE hardware an issue. But, you know better than I for sure.....

I cannot see them shipping to Oz at any great savings....but......I could be wrong. Still think local sourcing of shank bolts and rolling your own would likely be the better option in cost and availability.

buy a bolt a tad longer in the shank section, cut to length and tap the shank for install to the head and be done with it all. I would think being the large AG resources in your country these could be found easily. I can walk into about any hardware store in the US and these are on the shelf. Shipping, yeah that has been out of control and getting worse.

that may be a tough find, but with many options added to the car after the book went to the printers, you may have to source a Motors and or the 55 model year book for this section. Also the collection of Mopar service bulletins are a plus. This was if I recall, handled in 54 as a supplement.

come on folks, this is what builds character, some rise to the challenge and others fall to the wayside....you need a challenge once in a while just so not to become totally complacent. Sorry honey, you will have to take out the trash, after this excellent sandwich you made me, I have to get back to the starter bolt that is kicking my butt.