Plymouthy Adams

that depends, you looking for a repair or a cobble......myself, cut it out, shape a donor metal to match the created hole, fix for welding with butt weld clamps, full perimeter weld and you will have not to worry ever again in your lifetime....if however you looking to cut corners by getting in getting out....by all means, throw some rosin on it. Sell the car as if you keep it, you will likely be visiting this again.

thanks, I felt the manual was wrong but searching both the Dodge and Plymouth version, I got the same pictures....I had not long back store my Motors book away and was not where I thought it would be. I added a link to a bushing kit that should apply to the man's car. I did later come across an asterisk, single is straight axle, double is IFS. NOTHING AT ALL on the straight axle drag link.

well Sniper, a good point for sure, the book drawing specifically states the picture is 1936 through 1942 which is what the years the shop manual covers. Like you when first I read this I was thinking straight axle would have the drag link...so this morning I referenced the book and this was all that was shown in both the DODGE and PLYMOUTH factory service books of the era. BUT for sure if drag ling they are totally rebuildable, and the originator of the thread has been asked to supply a photo and has not so we are all yet in the dark at this point. Kinda a do I cut the red wire or the yellow wire here before it blows up in my face. Page 33 of the Plymouth factory books show similar with the Y pitman arm photo captioned 1936-42 models and I agree I always placed the IFS at 1939 and reverse Elliot axle for the earlier years. NOS MOPAR 1934-8 PLYMOUTH DODGE DESOTO CHRYSLER DRAG LINK PARTS PKG | eBay

and then, working some 16 years DoD Navy, used a lot of Monel...(Ni-Cu) .where high strength was needed along with corrosion resistance, most plans/drawings specifically called for which fastener you were to use. Cres will gall at high torque and basically weld itself together. Stainless steel is a catch all term for steel with a chromium content of no less than x percent and will be magnetic to a lesser degree than steel and still corrode a slight bit. More chromium less chance of corrosion/magnetism and for sure you paying or the chromium content as you go up in grade.

my factory service manual shows 36-42 having a pitman arm of Y shape on the steering sector thus a drag link will not be in play here...terminology may well be the key player here. You should have inner and outer tie rod ends on both the left and right tie rods which should be complete with grease fittings and these connect to the pitman arm. There is a big gap in the coverage of this in the book both Plymouth and Dodge....while the steering box is covered, the pitman arm and connecting tie rods are not. In the front suspension these are also not mentioned except to show how to orientate the pitman arm to centerline of the vehicle. The only picture in my book that even show the tie rods on place is in the lubrication section.

does this have to be car related, paid dearly for set of vinyl screen doors for the back porch to find the hinges were made of very soft cheese. I will be changing these in the near future.

stainless steel brake lines...the ultimate bling on a rat rod.......................😁

even the sign on the vending machine is correct.....you like it.....

Dextero DHT1...your mailbox is full, tried to send a message....

preformed and then curve and bent to fit a box for shipping, you better off making your own tailor fit set.......

You did mention Goodyear and 70's....thought this would be enough....lol

I got notice my tires are to be delivered today....225/75R15 for the 94 B250.......next up, tires for the 06 Caravan....wow do the years fly by....

for the most part our Home Depot, Lowes, TSC and local hardware stores carry a fairly good selection of hardware....NOW THEY DO NOT have everything....and SAE fine stainless does fall in that DOES NOT HAVE But I do have a company locally that has a better selection and prices and will sell 1 or a thousand with the same courteous service. Cannot say that for a certain main stream specialty store that by the way went tits up in this area due to the poor management and over the top gouging prices. For many folks the TSC by the pound hardware is a pretty good deal when you look at. I was not saying ordering on line was out of the question, sometimes it is the only means to an end on some very special hardware......and I have ordered in my fair share, I do however give the locals a chance to fill the order first so not to have stop/delay a segment of a build/process. Common sense stuff folks, nothing more.

with all due respect, items needed to exact this repair is common at any hardware store or big box building supply, TSC etc that one can walk in, get the item, pay and immediately got to work repairing. While mail order from many companies and sites are MOST BENEFICAL when you dealing/needing bulk quantity, I have to state IN MY OPINION this is not the best option for this particular thread. Heck if it boils right down to it, one can find where a person may park a chevy/gm product and find where these have fallen off and free for picking up. Ok so the last part is a joke...maybe real at times, but still intended as a jab/joke.

and as such when it is no longer original (as in not broken on assembly) toss these for some fresh hardware preferably stainless steel, BUT if you are a purist, and must stay with the stock stuff break out the molasses and let the big dog eat, weld the breaks, chase the threads and when completed apply for social security......enjoy a few pancakes while soaking your nuts and other hardware

well, .008 is within factory specs..just at the upper end..you can ride as is..and monitor this and address should it change...or go the added step to reduce this now while you are working this issue. The problem with many values and ideas expressed here is they do not reflect the values and standards of the engineers and it was well known, Chrysler aligned the company with the best engineers out there. Some folks just like to yell out, close enough and throw in the towel as it may be labor intensive.

remember this, there are guidelines for tires replacement based on age...there is NO MANDATE.....repsonisbily of operation and safety falls on the owner. I miss Pep Boys as I bought local from them so finding tires can be a problem. The biggest issue is I do my own mounting and balancing for my own personal reasons. The big chain store tires sales in this area WILL NOT sell out the door tires. They do the mount and balance and or not sell. They make all their profits in the bay...not on the retail price of the tire so Not part of this equation. What is stated by Greg is true that tires currently available are ST prefixed and when asking/buying by size are the tires that first show up on return, you must shop by vehicle to get correct application from most websites, whereas for us with these older cars running modern tires, you will not find a listing. For me, if I want a passenger tire for an older application I find a modern vehicle of approximate weight and such that come stock with the tire size I am interested in and then you will get tailored listing for what brands are available. THEN you can search for that tire by brand and tire model name/number for your better prices if you wish. I am sure the majority of the folks here know and do just this. But in the big box stores, majority of customers in the tire market drive late model and let the retailer do the rest.....base question to most of these folks is simply, what mileage or price range you wish to buy?

tires are a limited life commodity....they subject to lots of abuse....kept inside out of the harsh direct sunlight they fare pretty well on the collector/hobby cars with limited use. At age 32 years I replaced a set with zero cracking on sidewall or between the treads....they still looked great, but they did fail by way of bulge with belt separation but yet, the rubber never split. There are tell tell signs of most all radials going south. Never had a tire yet other than a set of Goodyears fail without prior indicator that is easily detected and if you attend it when it 'tells' you likely never to have a road use issue.

you may be onto something Sniper, I am going to say a rolling wheel gathers no red paint.....

I use the in my opinion a lot because most of my unsolicited comments are just that, an opinion and in no manner saying good bad or indifferent....but just as I see it. The fact I will then state the whys and wherefores of my opinion is to say that it is not just a whim or silly notion and give some background, color and size ratio etc...technically I could care less one way or the other what anyone chooses to do as it is not my car no more than if a person likes or dislikes what I do with mine. Big hobby folks, I will admit at one time it would rankle me see what some folks may do...but hard lesson to learn is JUST NOT MY BUSINESS....the red wheels, there is NO WAIVER here......lol

IT ALL FALLS ON DEAF EARS proper red matching the red on the car, primary or secondary color is not much an issue....only when the wheels are so drastically different than the body color does it scream out 'look at me' ....'look at me' and the car is now totally secondary to the wheels.....NOW I WILL admit that some cars could use these red wheels so folks may not focus on the car body/paint or lack thereof, guess there are always exception to the rules....I have one car recently purchased with red wheels, they are awful looking on the car and the car has been hid in the barn like the proverbial ugly duckling until alternate wheels arrive...thankfully the wheels have been located and be delivered from way up snow country way in a month or so. The replacement wheels I picked out are factory steel wheels but low production numbers and not very common as the second series and restyled units that while nice, is not the look I want.....holding out for the first series wheels.

this is in line to big aux lights go better with big standard lamps.....you have the opportunity to make a fellow hobbyist happy, line your pockets and do your car justice at the same time...but again...just my opinion.....this guy needs to lose the whore red wheels and go with body color either primary or secondary color will look better than this stark red.....again my opinion.....nothing says you cannot paint a car ugly....lol

On the same thinking as Todd, personally the Trippe lights in my opinion should be held in reserve for a car a bit larger....but again, just my opinion. They overshadow the regular lights....whereas the smaller units appear as a highlight and while attractive, do no command all the attention when viewed.

DON'T FEED THE BEARS looks like Boo-Boo has grown up

or some oil drenched fish and chips and a lukewarm lager......lol PS I do have a few registered Brit cars in captavity and double that in projects.......too much stuff too little time.