Plymouthy Adams

well I went online for e-bay Australia, you folks sure have a serious problem with the economy down there....feel for you for sure.....like Harrison Ford said in the movie, it's an island, if you didn't bring it here, you not going to find it here. A man could make a good living smuggling in bolts down there....lol

with the influx of the British made motor car of 50-70's and the later models being SAE over earlier models using Whitworth, I would not ever have thought finding SAE hardware an issue. But, you know better than I for sure.....

I cannot see them shipping to Oz at any great savings....but......I could be wrong. Still think local sourcing of shank bolts and rolling your own would likely be the better option in cost and availability.

buy a bolt a tad longer in the shank section, cut to length and tap the shank for install to the head and be done with it all. I would think being the large AG resources in your country these could be found easily. I can walk into about any hardware store in the US and these are on the shelf. Shipping, yeah that has been out of control and getting worse.

that may be a tough find, but with many options added to the car after the book went to the printers, you may have to source a Motors and or the 55 model year book for this section. Also the collection of Mopar service bulletins are a plus. This was if I recall, handled in 54 as a supplement.

come on folks, this is what builds character, some rise to the challenge and others fall to the wayside....you need a challenge once in a while just so not to become totally complacent. Sorry honey, you will have to take out the trash, after this excellent sandwich you made me, I have to get back to the starter bolt that is kicking my butt.

yes

1954 the PS did not state the need for the larger engine, this come about in April with the introduction of Plymouth first fully automatic transmission...the only year Plymouth offered two different displacement flathead 6's and the larger 230 is identified by a diamond ahead of the engine class/number

you forgot to raise the hood and set the wheel chocks.

the special starter wrench Merle mentions is the go to for many starter applications....I guess I have owned mine for over 50 years. The shorter combo universal and sockets are shorter than using a socket with an universal and may be of benefit in many applications with some extensions involved in the process.

with the two boys, you would do better with the bench seat.....as the truck is not stock, go with a good Mopar alternator......

well, maybe always carry the wife so she can push start the truck.....other than that man you do what you have to do....😄

I have seen seal with the flange on the pip and I have seen them without, I think if you look at some sites you will find that the rear axle seals match the three common alxes of the era

the ones you get are made on a brake and common bend and thus the J is missing and also many do not realize the slight curve is supposed to be in place along the length.....these were pressed units, I have only found one set of NOS factory panels. I have bought from some companies that the units were pure junk, others that were usable but again, there is no true J and not seen the proper curve in the P15's either. BUT knowing up front the short comings, you can do a good job taking your time correcting on the fly when welding in. If you need a full rocker, yes buying one is a good start....if just a patch here or there...short section of the rockers is a relatively simple task. DIY does show the curve in their product, the do not show a J as to the correct box..cannot speak for that as I have not used their items. But currently there are three sellers on e-bay now. (suspect one company is selling under two names)

guaranteed never to strip out the threads in the head of a Triton V8

took a few minutes after mowing the lawn today to drive a couple of the cars....

my comment was based solely on the rear of the hitch mounting point and what seems to be the metal of the trunk pan and not tied into the frame. While the front mounting is at the bumper and along with the supporting cross brace for the bumper...I will not say the towing force would not be adequate only that the rear does not fully check rocking and does not displace tongue weight effectively. For sure as in the past and you can still see being done in the present, one often does with what one has at hand at the moment and am fully aware the intent was to beef this later, but as it did the job....the later was often not at the forefront.

to me, (opinion only here) this is a perfect example of HOW NOT TO DO THINGS

never overlook the compressed transmission rubber mounts and the ability of this to move about when applying or releasing engine torque when in gear.

lose the tudor..that is not a ford...

Seems you have the ultra rare Wrongway Peachfuzz edition....

as a quick patch yes, as a repair....no

while it boils down to supply and demand, IMO this guy fancies taking the family to the Bahamas. There are other means to get OD and to that end one needs to pony up for the R10 and be content with the controls both mechanical and electrical or simply upgrade to a transmission with 5th gear built in and get it over and done with and have parts availability also. 3.5K will build a lot of nice extras into a car with a good chunk left over for fuel while gadding about.

I would suspect it to b the back brace that attaches to the spalsh pan at the bottom and the back of the hood latch plate at the rear...

most all of these companies say you cannot tow a trailer and in fact, if it is a vintage tin car period correct to the era, there are exceptions but they specifically state no personal items in the trailer, not for use to camp on site and no spares to be towed in the trailer.....you may still be restricted by some as a NO NO on all accounts, but I know for certain one company at the time I did this said it was allowed based on the above. The company at the time I spoke to them was okay for static tow and show....well, they may nix that today.