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With a body on frame vehicle YOU DO NOT WANT BELTS ANCHORED TO THE FRAME. You don't want to be tied to the frame while the body pulls away from its base.

Change your camera setting to a lower pixel count. You don't need Hi Def pics to post up here.

Unless the king pins were completely ignored for thier whole existence, they should be serviceable. There are upwards of 18 grease fittings associated with steering parts. Find them and get fresh grease into them. New zeroks and heat maybe necessary to get the old hardened grease out. This is especially true with the king pin pivot points. My 46 has 118000 miles on its original king pins. They get greased every year. It is good practice to cycle the steering from lock to lock while servicing the grease fittings and applying heat. If you need to replace the kingpins, I believe the new ones are oversized and the bushings need to be reamed to fit the oversize plus the grease tolerance. This procedure would probably require a specialist with old school tools. If you need to go that route look for a place that works on medium duty trucks, construction and or farm equipment.

Check the main ground cable. If the starter was painted during its servicing, remove it and assure paint is removed from the mounting points. With your meter compare voltage across the battery terminals on fully charged battery. Now check the voltage from the negative terminal to a head bolt. If the voltage is lower at the headbolt is lower than the reading between the battery terminals your ground cable is suspect.

Time to learn the art of hot wiring your car. First we need pictures of what is there. Need to see the starter, and cables and wires attached. Does the battery cable (should be a thick one, about 2x the thickness of a modern 12volt cable) attach directly to a thick terminal, or is it connected to a solenoid? When you got the starter from the shop, did they bench test it, so you could hear and see it work? Typical solenoid

Your car should have a foot operated starter. Has it been switched to the button operated solenoid from a later car? Was the starter switced also? c

Does the coil get hot? Points clean and gapped? Carb to intake nice and snug. Throttle cable bound up, choke fully open? Does pulling the choke closed a bit effect the symptom? Carb to manifold clear of any wetness? Voltage to coil proper and steady?

Been running a universal 6 cylinder set of copper cores from Tractor Supply. Been in there since 2002 and 50k miles. Still nice and pliable, boots on both ends still good. No light show after dark. They were 20 bucks 20 years ago.

I think the ads take a while before they actually go up. Moderator review maybe?

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/670.cfm#:~:text=Too little dwell and the,are symptoms of incorrect dwell.

Taking off the manifold? Makes no sense. In the manual there is a test for fuel pump flow quantity. Takes 10 minutes. Did you pull your distributor out when you installed the points? Is the centrifugal advance working? Is the vacuum advance working? Are your points installed and gapped correctly? Is the small flexible wire going to the points in good condition and not grounding to the dist body? Is your coil wired correctly for 6v positive operation? Have you done a compression and or vacuum test? When going down the road do you smell clutch? Is your parking brake releasi g completely? Test for clutch slip. Find a moderate hill of at least half a mile, fill the trunk with some heavy stuff, get a rider or to. Stop the car. Put in third gear, with clutch out and foot on brake. Release brake and floor the gas. Does the car gradually accelerate and gain rpm relative to speed or does it rev up out of proportion to ground speed. If revs are not relative to ground speed, your clutch needs adjustment, these fluid drive clutches can have very little wear by looking at thickness but they can slip under load especially in high gear. My dad had two fluid drive Dodges both with fluid dtive and three speeds, a 49 Wayfarer, and a 54 Meadowbrook. I recall him having to adjust the clutch on the 54 a couple times after being told by the dealer shop everything's fine. While on the subject the clutch pedal should have an inch or so of free play before linkages begin to move through its actual work zone, if it's not there, it's putting pressure on the throw out bearing causing the clutch to not clamp properly, and will slip under load.

My oil filter return line split inside the fitting. New piece of tubing fixed it. Also check the flex line feeding the oil pressure gauge. There is one more source but it's behind the bellhousing. The Welch plug where the rear cam bearing sits, but it pretty rare for that to leak. If most of your oil is drivers side, I would suspect filter or gauge plumbing, or where the distributor sits in the block. A trip to the car wash to clean things up may help you locate the source. Good to hear from you. Been a while.

Go to carnut.com car specs section. Look up Dodge in the 40's. Study the compression ratio, and horsepower numbers. As fuel got better, compression ratios went up and horsepower followed. Without changing much else, milling the head is still the best bang for your buck. This assumes that the engine is in good condition with good rings and pistons. How much to mill, well that depends. If you know the current head is unmolested, some have said .080 is doable. I have a 56 230, when I did my rebuild, the head was milled .040, and the block was decked .010. The machinist calculated my compression ratio at just below 9.0 to 1. Runs great on 87 octane. Has good throttle response, and fuel mileage went up 30 miles on a full tank. If you don't know the history of you engine and any previous work, you need to be conservative on how much you can do. A compression test, and a check with a vacuum gauge is a good way to assess the engine's internal condition. If you need eye candy, dual carbs, headers, aluminum heads are out there if you have deep pockets.

I remember folks putting hoter plugs in older engines that were prone to oil fouling from worn rings or cylinders. The belief being that a hotter plug tip would help cook off carbon lessening misfire. As far as cold plugs, people who were chasing, pinging, spark knock or pre ignition used them in the belief that a cooler tip would not act like a diesel glow plug lighting the air fuel mix before it was fully compressed. Spark plug heat range is not a reference to the quality, length or intensity of the spark. https://www.ngkntk.in/importance-of-heat-range/

She's an angel of the first degree.

Wheel vintique smoothies, 15 x 5.5 3.5 back space. These are drilledfor mopar ford amc bolt as well as small GM. Pin fits through one of the gm holes. Stock lug bolts no problems. 45K miles zero issues.

Is the step up valve functioning properly? Should be closed at high vacuum situations like idle. If open it will cause fuel fouling.

P 15 Picnic update. With less than a month to go, we have had a couple of cancelations. Last time we looked there were still two rooms left under our room block. Not too late to contact the hotel and join the group. Host hotel is the Casablanca in Grimsby Ontario. Contact them directly. Mention P15 Picnic rt oom block.

Haven't seen this mentioned, but what is your idle rpm? Should be 450 500. Have you tried lengthening the rod going from the clutch pedal to the throw out fork? If the disc isn't fully disengaging it will spin the input shaft.

Didnt nissan aka Datsun make Fiats ofseveral models under liscence as Japans industries got back on their feet after WW II? A friend in High school had one of these. Top speed was maybe 50. Gas tank held 4 gallons, fill up was a buck. Kinda fun around town. He hung out with several guys that had wierd cars. Hillman minx, Simca aronde, a DKW, a Saab 93, a Opel Rekord, a Borgward, and a fairly new mini Cooper one guys brother got on deployment some where in Europe. There was also an MGA twin cam and an Austin Healy 100 4 LeMans. Needless to say these guys didn't get to park with the cool kids in the student lot. https://www.audrainautomuseum.org/small-wonders-mini-micro-pedal-and-toy-cars/1959-autobianchi-bianchina-trasformabile

I have used Bon Ami cleanser on several faded and rust stained finishes. Bon Ami is a non silica based cleaner that won't scratch paint, glass, stainless or chrome. Bartenders friend is similar if you can't find bon ami. Look on the bottom shelf in the cleanser section of the grocery store. I use it with water and terrycloth. Wet a 1ft square area, sprinkle on , rub and rinse. It takes a lot of rinsing but you will be surprised at the result. Takes road grime off windshields. Rust stains from dripping rain gutters, haze from stainless trim. Make sure you get the original product. https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Ami-Natural-Cleanser-Kitchen/dp/B07VC36NMC/ref=asc_df_B07VC36NMC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=564776368211&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5643714554457280058&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005095&hvtargid=pla-1455542392046&psc=1

Check two things float level and needle and seat. If the needle valve isn't closing it will allow the float chamber to over fill. I'd the float isn't seating correctly it won't push the needle in to the seat proper. Current wisdom is to set the float a 32nd or 2 lower than factory spec. Today's gas blends expand more at lower Temps leaving some room in the chamber also prevents over flow when under hood Temps are high. To lower thr float you want to bend the tab that contacts the needle up so the float doesn't need to come up so high to close the valve. Third item to check is the little retainer clip that fits into the groove the float pin goes into. If it not there or if misaligned the float won't work to close the inlet. In the downloads area of this site is a pictorial of rebuilding the carb. This can help you identify the parts reffered too above.

Now there's one thing in the whole wide world I sure would like to see That's when that little love of mine Dips her doughnut in my tea. Up on Cripple Creek She sends me If I spring a leak She mends me I dont hafta speak She defends me A drunkard's dream if I ever did see one. ( insert jaw harp riff followed by a bit of yodeling)

There was a recall on those. I remember there being steady work for 2 techs at the dealership I worked at. Some engineer decided that it was a good idea to put aluminum tubes and fittings and attaching them to steal subframw components. He must have missed the lessons on galvanic corrosion in damp environments. Throw in a couple winters driving on salted roads, and you have hundreds of thousands of Van's being recalled. The techs loved them. Chrysler paid 2,75 hours for the repair. The guys got it down to about 40 minutes. Hey could do 6 or 8 a day if the parts guys kept a proper stock pile of the repair assemblies.

From what I have read the Nascar Plymouths didn't have the speed to keep up with the Hudsons and Oldsmobile. Where they made their mark was with fewer pits stops for tires and fuel. I also read that where they could they ran 6 to 8 ply truck tires which also extended time between stops .