greg g

I remember putting a 74 or so Coupe de Ville on a u haul trailer, they have a 130 inch wheelbase. It was close, but it fit. Is the DeSoto longer?

This help?

Not far behind in annoyance factor is the male peacocks mating call. Several different calls can top 110 decibels and supposedly can carry nearly three miles under optimal air and wind conditions.

Why are Mercury switches spotty? Unless the container is breached, they shouldn't be problematic. My father used to make his own for under hood and trunk lights. His favorite container was those new fangled plastic medicine bottles.

https://youtu.be/shqg4a-Ols8

Rich will you download your posted charts to the resources area of this web site? This would be very helpful. I don't think people are aware of how many permutations of distributors they might run across when looking for tune up parts. Year make and model queries can easily lead folks astray when dealing with issues surrounding distributors found in these flatheads, especially when you throw in engine swaps from different years, makes Models, and types.

Watch the backspace on these later wheels. Backspace is the measurement from the center of a straight edge placed across the back side of the rim, down to the center flange ( the area the lug holes are). I believe 4 inches is the limit. Deeper backspace will have interference between tire side wall front at tie rods and rear on leaf springs.

Speaking of momentum, I watched a you tube 0 to 60 run done in a 1950 Nash Aireflite. It was powered by a flathead six. The narrator said it was a three speed, with a 4:52 rear-end with borg warner OD. First run took 27 seconds, 2nd run took 30. Both runs needed to shift into OD to achieve 60. Looks like 52 or so had rung her out when it couldn't gain any more rpm in 3rd. He also mentioned it was tired with lots of blow by and oil use. He said he thought factory HP was 85.

I believe the shift rite was marketed to achieve the down shift withhout the adrenalin rush of full throttle operation.

Most discussions of semi automatic faults, other than leaks,on this forum have been solved by attention to external circuits and assemblies. The gear boxes themselves are pretty much bullet proof. Glad you got it sorted. You are now free to accumulate momentum. Leave it in high range and just drive.

Ford Not likely (different gear selecting linkage) but any Plymouth three speed from 46 through 56 should be a bolt in. Dodge from the same period should work also but you would probably need to use a Plymouth input shaft as dodge was longer due to being paired to fluid drive assembly. I have a 46 ply outh trans in my garage but your a bit to far away.

There was a member, passed away, who's p15 had dual heaters. The outlets were contained in the foot well kick panels. You might still find some of his pictures posted to this site. Member name was Norm's Coupe.

If you were to read the owner's manual you would see low range was recommended for low traction driving like mud and snow, trailer towing, heavy load carrying, and steep hill descending. For normal driving conditions (normal for late 40s through mid 50s) high range was recommended. These cars were designed to accumulate momentum rather than briskly accelerate.

So last weekend we took a 60 mile trip to a car show. Had the 0D engaged and noticed some pinging while giving it gas climbing several long grades. Guess I need to retard my timing a few degrees. But since it's been a few years since I messed with it, I have forgotten which way to turn the distributor to back off a hair without dragging out the timing light or vacuum gauge. This is strictly an adjust till it don't make that noise anymore seat of pants operation. So, clockwise or anti clockwise.

You just want to be aware that some or all gm coils were internally resisted, so you don't want to use an in line ballast with them as then the coil will be trying to operate on 3 or 4 volts instead of 8 or 9.

I have sat in the drivers seat of 3 or 4 P 15s with the original cowl mount swan necks. Regardless of where the seat was positioned the passenger side mirror was pretty useless. Had to position my body 3/4 of the way across the seat to see anything. They look nice but aren't as good as clamp ons.

Did you check the resource or technical areas on the Imperial Club website

Was watching a post on you tube where a guy was using something called solder sticks. You use them like crimp connectors but they have low temp solder inside and heat wrap on the outside. You heat it with a heat gun till the solder flows around the wire. They even sell a heat shield deflector that keeps you from frying neighbor wires. When done you have a soldered waterproof connection. https://solderstick.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8M_-8aq7_wIVR0VyCh2I0AYhEAAYAiAAEgKcOPD_BwE

Modern hypoid trans lubes have additives that don't play nice with brass, bronze, and other "white metals". How long these parts of your transmission can stand up to the play ground bullies is any one's guess. If you only put a couple K miles on a year, they may last your life time. And since the sensitive parts are related to your synchro, it may never cause an issue except grindy down shifts. And unless you are doing a lot of mountain roads...who knows?

Ouch! Hope you heal up quickly. Activity as tolerated is not an OK to push the envelope.

Got one two years ago from Oriely's. Around 30 bucks if I recall correctly. Think it was 70 inch.

When I had my overdrive done, I learned that the my setup would have the pin type synchro. My trans is from a 56. I can't rember if I was told that the switch over was done in 55 or 56. Don't know if that helps you any, but the 47 should have the non pin assuming is the correct trans for 47. The 46 trans that was in my car didn't like to downshift from hi to 2nd above 25 mph.

I had a 7 pin but only used 5. Didn't connect auxiliary ( car to trailer battery) or backup lights. With 12v 14gauge should be enough for lights, 12 gauge for brakes and trailer battery. I forget what controller I used. I was working at a car dealership in the get ready dept, on used cars and trucks w,e were instructed to pull all aftermarket towing components and all non factory auxiliary lights and switches, so I always had access to controllers. The E Trailer website or probably you tube would have tutorials. On where to pull power for the controller, and battery connection.

I ran 205 75 15 on my p 15. They rode and handled OK but overall diameter was short, making the speedometer 7 to 8 mph off. For around town it wasn't a big deal but for road trips it didn't suit how I wanted the car to work, so I put a pair of 225 75 15 on the rear. If I remember the original tires were 600 16s with a 28.5 or 29 inch overall diameter. The 205s were 27 and the 225s are 28.75. This relaxed rpm a hit and corrected the speedo to 55 indicated was 54 on the gps. Yes they look too fat, yes there was some rub on sharp turns (new shakle bushings fixed that) but now I have tires I can replace just about anywhere I am with in stock off the shelf tires from wally world, costco, bjs etc. The fronts were mounted in 2005, the rears in 2007. So I am overdue age wise, but the front are at 1/4 tread wear and the rears still at half or more. The current fronts were in storage till two years ago as they were take offs when I put the 225s on the back. The 205s are uniroyal tiger paws, from W mart,the 225s are cornells from pep boys. The unis were $ 55 each, the cornells were 5 bucks more. Ah the good old days.

OK one more. Modern points sets are mostly junk. Several people have had problems with insufficient spring tension leaving the points to hang open. This usually presents as a high rpm misfire, but it's worth checking. You should be able to feel resistance when you try to open the points with a small screwdriver. Hopefully you are doing this with the distributor out of the car on the bench or in a vice. This will assure everything is squared away and tight.