greg g

I ran 205 75 15 on my p 15. They rode and handled OK but overall diameter was short, making the speedometer 7 to 8 mph off. For around town it wasn't a big deal but for road trips it didn't suit how I wanted the car to work, so I put a pair of 225 75 15 on the rear. If I remember the original tires were 600 16s with a 28.5 or 29 inch overall diameter. The 205s were 27 and the 225s are 28.75. This relaxed rpm a hit and corrected the speedo to 55 indicated was 54 on the gps. Yes they look too fat, yes there was some rub on sharp turns (new shakle bushings fixed that) but now I have tires I can replace just about anywhere I am with in stock off the shelf tires from wally world, costco, bjs etc. The fronts were mounted in 2005, the rears in 2007. So I am overdue age wise, but the front are at 1/4 tread wear and the rears still at half or more. The current fronts were in storage till two years ago as they were take offs when I put the 225s on the back. The 205s are uniroyal tiger paws, from W mart,the 225s are cornells from pep boys. The unis were $ 55 each, the cornells were 5 bucks more. Ah the good old days.

OK one more. Modern points sets are mostly junk. Several people have had problems with insufficient spring tension leaving the points to hang open. This usually presents as a high rpm misfire, but it's worth checking. You should be able to feel resistance when you try to open the points with a small screwdriver. Hopefully you are doing this with the distributor out of the car on the bench or in a vice. This will assure everything is squared away and tight.

Is it fixed yet? After driving and it stalls, open the hood with engine off. Is there raw fuel at the base of the carb? If not, I would think it's electrical. Check all the wires and connections to and from from the ignition switch. As mentioned there is a thin flexible wire inside the distributor, this wire is flexing with every chang in vacuum. It can look good but be broken under the insulation or if the insulation is frayed or missing this can cause problems with grounding to the distributor body. Also check the insulation on the terminal where the wire from the coil connects Have you done a vacuum test? You might have a vacuum leak which causes an extrem lean mix that causes the stall. If you don't know how to do a vacuum test, go to secondchance garage.com. There is an excellent how to there. You will be checking intake manifold vacuum, not carb vacuum. One more thought, is your choke fully opened at idle at normal operating temp? Check your dipstick, does your oil smell like it has gas in?

I believe that old devil asbestos was bonded to the sheet metal piece that comprised the base of the manifold stove. I remember my dad fussing about the automatic choke on his 54 Meadowbrook. He couldn't get used to the new fangled thing and missed the hand choke and throttle of his 49 Wayfarer. I remember reading in the owners manual that the cold weather starting procedure said to press the gas pedal firmly to the floor, then to release it before engaging the starter. This opened the throttle butterfly and set the carb linkage to the fast idle position. This facilitated the closing of the choke butterfly when the key was turned to start. If the car didn't start you were to give it 1/3 throttle pedal when engaging the starter again.

Before engaging reverse, briefly select second gear, then try reverse. That process will engage the synchro, allowing reverse to be selected without grinding or with reduced difficulty. If this works, you don't have sufficient travel for the friction disc to be completely declared when you push down the clutch. There isn't enough friction to movethe car but enough ti keep the input shaft turning. You also want about an inch of free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel, before linkage rods start moving. The correction is to lengthen the actuator rod so it bushes the throw out bearin farther. Sometimes a quarter inch travel will make the difference between engaging and grinding.

Typically Plymouth firewalls are body color. The early post war cars used a gray primer on trunk lid reinforcement stampings and inner fenders. Not sure about 40 41. Lots of good inf at allpar.com. search 1940 Plymouth, see what you get. Typically dealer brochures, advertising illustrations specs and more.

Was gonna do it yesterday but some items intervened. So about a half hour ago, got Kate woke up from her hibernation. Couple squirts of gas down the carbs, set about3/4 choke, 1/3 gas pedal. Cranked once for about 10 seconds got a couple pops. A bit more prime, anorther short crank, she fired up and settled into fast idle. Couple pumps on the brake pedal. Reversed out of the garage, opened the choke and did a 5 mile loop. This car amazes me on how well she is made, and how she ages so well. Lots better than me.

I remember those boxes. My father would put one in a bowl. Then pour hot water over it, let it sit a mi ute, drain off the water, pour some honey and milk on it. Then declared it fit to eat. I never acquired a taste for shredded wheat in any of it's guises. Might as well try to chow down on Excelsior. (how many remember that stuff?)

Bad out of the box describes a lot of electrical items from China and Mexico. I have the sender from the aforementioned vendor. It wakes up, goes to about 3/4 full, waves at me, then drops to empty. Does this regardless of amount of fuel in the tank. Once in a great while, when driving, if by chance I am looking at the gauge, it may reflect actual fuel level. But never for more than 30 seconds. I got it through a third party, after he got his original working as it should. It does have a dedicated ground wire. I am hesitant to play with it for fear of messing up my original trunk mat.

Most of the two wire sending units are offshore items that don't work, or crap out shortly after installation. NOS are chickens teeth and ridiculously priced.

After a 2 year covid close down, our local Mopar Association changed their format from a formal participant judged class arranged show to a cruise in style format. Parking was chaotic the muscle car guys started a burn out session, some of the 4wd drive truck folks found a bog area and started mudding. This within the confines of a county park. I cruised out after about 45 minutes. The admission was 20 bucks. Most of it goes to burn trauma center at a local hospital. This year, I will just send a check to the burn unit and skip the event. It was a nice day with a good representation of late 30s to mid 50s Chrysler products, with good talk amongst owners but now they are spread over the park instead of year of production groups.

Single wire or double wire sender?

Wet carb base usually a symptom of too high float or needle and seat not closing. This will cause over rich mixture, drowned spark plugs and misfire. I have had good luck with floats set 2 or 3 32nds lower than factory. Today's fuel blends expand more and at lower Temps than the stuff of yesteryear causing percolation, raw fuel puddling in the intake, feels like vapor lock, causes hard starting when hot.

If you have an interest in the USA Canada P 15 Picnic in Sept get your self on the email list by contacting Mark Duggan. Mark@rdusaclassics.com

Usually the pertronix failure mode is shut down, no start, no run. I have heard of nearly a dozen stories of folks driving down the road at the speed limit, then nothing, stranded on the shoulder.

Donald, do you have a spare distributor you could drop in to see if it makes a difference?

I guess it looks like your pump is pretty close. Looks like it may be distributor or coil related. Is your coil getting hot?

Now it seems my camera won't talk to the forum. So...manual says 5 to 6 ounces per 15 strokes, pulses or squirts. It also sez you can connect a vacuum gauge to the pump inlet port, start the engine and it should pull 6 inches of vacuum. Less might indicate a blockage or a failing diaphragm.

I wrote the description from memory. I now remember my memory aint what it used to be, Errors were made. Remembered to take pics of the service manual. This should explain. Don't know how a comparison to an electric pump would be done. 20230425_113902.heic 20230425_113918.heic

Lyrics from popular old bluegrass song https://www.bluegrasslyrics.com/song/mountain-dew/

Mtn Dew has lots of caffeine. I know my hands get jittery after two cups of coffee. Jittery hands and tools don't work for me. Iced tea or lemon aide are my garage go to bevs. At least till 4 pm when I might treat my self with a wobble pop or 2. Hope you can track this down. Have you checked the spring on the points and the thin wire to the points.

Review Ohm's Law regarding current flow. 6v accessories draw 2x the amps as 12v items. There for thicker wires than modern cars. Mostly 10 or 12 gauge. For examples a low beam headlight is rated at 30 watts. A 12v lamp needs apx 3 amps of current, a 6v bulb at 30 watts draws 5 amps. Throw in some corroded connections and a rusty ground and you are near 12 amps for both lights running. Modern 16 gauge e can't carry that much current. So you get dim lights, lots of heat, more resistance, more heat etc. Be safe when in doubt go thicker gauge. Lower gauge number, thicker the wire. Also note the thickness of the battery cables in Mr. Smith's pic. Those are proper gauge for 6v systems.

Fuel flow test. You need an assistant. Pull the coil wire, car in neutral park brake on. Disconnect fuel line at carb Direct discharge into a suitable container, a 20 Oz beverage bottle works fine Have an assistant crank the starter Count pulses as you direct flow into the bottle 12 pulses should yield 8 or more ounces of fuel Less than 8 won't support proper operation. Low flow suggests worn pump, obstructed fuel line, clogged filter/s, clogged pickup in tank, or small air leaks in the line/s on the suction side of the pump. Have you given any thought to rigging a temporary fuel supply with either gravity feed or an electric pump?

This k you are going to post some better pics, along with something of known size for size relationship.

Looks very much like the one I cobbled up.