greg g

Very nice. Love the front design. Dashboard is in great shape. Hope you have many trouble free drive

We got 4 hours hours of constant broadcasts for high wind warnings, tornado watch announcements, hail warnings. What occurred was 15 minutes of dark skies, about a quarter inch of rain. There was an unconfirmed tornado about 20 north east, some wind damage due to a deratio (strong straight line wind damage) and some short duration widespread power outages in a 20 mile radius.

Gutenberg morgan. My 46 ply,outh business coupe has 47000 miles on a rebuilt 1956 230 cu in engine. I usually drive on non interstate highways at 55 to 60 mph. It gets 17 mpg. Idle vacuum is 20 inches through dual carbs on a Fenton intake manifold. It runs at 170 degrees with the original radiator, with 42 psi oil pressure. It consumes or leaks 16 ounces of oil per 700 miles. I use 15w40 non synthetic diesel engine oil. Our car usually gets driven about 3 to 4 thousand miles annually, with at least one trip of 250 miles or more. I have my travel kit with oil, Brake fluid, fan belt, a set of points, a set of spark plugs. I also carry a spare ready to go distributor, a tow rope, jumper cables, a couple fuel filters, ground cloth, gloves, clean up wipes, a small tool box and small trolley jack. Three years ago we installed an over drive trans which boosts gas mileage to 19 to 21 mpg and reduces engine revs at ~60 mph from aprox. 3200 to about 2400. Here in the middle of New York state, we have state or county highways that parallel our interstate highways and provide a driving experience more in tune with the cars design and engineering. The speed limit on these roads is 55 mph, but most traffic moves at 60 or so between cities villages and other built up areas. Is your car a real Dodge, or is it a Plymouth with Dodge badges and trim? Chrysler had many variations and varieties of export vehicles, or is yours an imported USA market model? Put up some pictures when you can.

Did you ever do a fuel pump volume test as outlined in the fuel section of the service manual?

Don't think it's different but 12 pulses should be 6 to 8 ounces for p15s. The service manual covers it in the test written procedure not on any spec chart. I may misremember stuff these days. So please consider a second source. Your results may vary.

Is it vapor lock? These vehicles are not prone to actual vapor lock. When does it happen? Teflon tape should not be used for fuel connections as it can partially dissolve and cause blockages to occur. Have you ruled out air leaks on the suction side of the pump back to the tank? Have you cleared the lines to the tank with compressed air? Is your rubber line between the pump and frame in good condition. Have you done the fuel volume test outlined in the service manual? Have you ruled out perculation? Have you checked the debris screen inside the pump? MMO is a blend of light petroleum distillate (machine oil), Stoddard solvent (an industrial cleaning fluid), and red coloring. What are your expectations for it to do?

Carbs not really documented. I put up a couple shots of my shade tree hardware store throttle linkage but was back in 2004 or so. Yes I swapped oil pan and pickup plumbing from 218 to 230. Starter and generator as well.

Wife read about peppermint oil. Cotten balls soaked in and distributed about the premises spoked to be effective vs assorted rodentia.

Here is a video from 2011 of my 46 Plymouth doing a long uphill climb in NY'S Catskill Mtns. Fresh rebuilt 56 Plymouth 230 with dual George Ashe Carters on a Fenton intake. It probably had about 7000 miles on it back the. Temp steady at 170, oil pressure 45 psi speed around 60 with about 1/3 throttle. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/xlw1mt

Stunningly handsome automobile.

Very nice but a cold start, and drive around the block, or accelerating up a hill would be a very much appreciated follow up. Your 34 is a beauty for sure.

The fuel volume test is outlined in the service manual. But basically disconect the line to the carb, direct the fuel line into a coke bottle, have some one crank the starter with the coil wire out. Count the pulses of gas entering the container. 12 pulses should give you at least 6 ounces. Or more.

Assure the wire for the breaker plate is in good condition and not grounding to the distributor body through missing insulation. Then because all ignition faults are fuel related, do the test for adequate fuel pumping volume.

Thanks, been in the family since 1970.

Been running these wheel vintique series 20 since 2004 with no issues. 15 inch, 5.5 wide with 3.5 inch back space. 205 75 front 225 75 rears. Zero issues. Dual lug circle pattern accommodates the locating pin6v

Aren't the truck engines shown 33 or so inches long? Kinda difficult to shoehorn in to a car chassis. What are you running for boost when does the waste gate pop? Thinking that high boost at over 3500 rpm might trigger expensive noises. Did you modify the bottom end lubrication? Years back there was a fellow built a similar engine for a pulling tractor. If I remember he had about 7 pounds of boost at 3000 rpm with a 3200 rev limit. Looks great! Hope it performs well for you.

Accessories should swap easily . The distributer in the Plymouth would have a bit more aggressive timing curve in response to the thunderous increase in compression.

D19 was 6.5 to 1, p18 was 7.0 to 1.

Not very likely especially if it's still in the 90s.

Who is the lady? Don t care who you are, you gotta luv 32s. That looks sweet. Nice find. Can you tell us more about that era, style of racing it and other makes it would compete with! The body was probably custom fabricated. On this forum there were a vouple posts from Tim Kingsbury with severalicture of a very similar car in George Ashe's work shop. The posts may be in the blog area of this website if they aren't in regular member posts. You might want to search Tim's content. Here is the car. I read a novel where the main character has entered his Duesenburg in a long distance road race tin Australia in the mid thirties. Apparently the races took the form of the Mille Miglia.running over several days linking distant cities.

Before you install it, on any brand by any supplier, check the lever pivot pin. If it just pushed in it needs to, be staked, clamped, or glued in. Their "interference" fit isn't sufficient to keep the pin in place. Best practice would be to replace the pin with a clevis pin that can be pined or clipped in place. Picture for discussion purposes only. This is not meant to fit your specific situation.

Does the car have a simple crankshaft pulley or a vibration damper. If vibration dampened is delaminating that could be the source. A bent simple pulley might also feel like a vibration. Also you could you be feeling the missfire of blown head gasket and feeling it as a vibration. A compression test would reveal that.

Hey Tim, not trying to hijack your thread. It's been a while and with new members who may or may not posted pics of their cars and trucks, just wanted to encourage getting out and about and posting some pics.

If your drive shaft has the ball and trunion joints on both ends, swap it end to end. This is some times to move the balls to a less worn place along the trunion. After 75 plus years they could benefit from running on less worn sections. This assumes your tires are balanced and you have no bent rims. As to your car creeping at idle, idle speed should be 450 to 500 rpm. Fluid drive will apply twist to the drive line while idling in gear unless the clutch pedal is depressed.