greg g

1o or 12 years ago we would have been out on Onieda lake racing our cars on 14 to 20 inches of ice and would continue till the 1st or 2nd weekend in March. I went by the park wherever accessed the lake and it is barely skimmed over. Not even enough for skating or fishing. As youngsters we would skate on swamps and interconnected creeks. Could skate for miles and never be in some other skaters tracks. Never saw much to recommend rink skating (or fishing).

Well, I started school in 53 so in fact most of the schools were fairly new. Elementary was built in 51.

Match books are getting hard to find these days...

On vacuum, my 46 pulled 19, had a lot of blow by. My rebuilt 56 230 pulls 19 but it has duel carbs. Gauge attached to the windshield vacuum port. My friends rebuilt 51 pulls just over 20 with single carb. On distributors, I have 4 each 2 were IGS, 1 was an IAT, cant remember the other one without a trip to the parts cabinet. But I did post a picture here years ago highliting the differences. One had a high body and a short distributor Cap, one of the others had a lower body casting, with a taller cap, rotors were different, points were different and one had the points mounted on the opposite side of the breaker cam. All reasons to get tune up parts by the number on the tag. And a compelling reason to pull the dist out to address any issues.

Thanx for re prooving that automotive parable. What is the difference between your distributers? My 56 Plymouth engine in my 46 bizcoupe runs a 54 dodge pickup distributor. When I looked up the differences, it was just slightly massaged advance curves. Advance got more aggressive as compression ratios went up. I chose the truck unit cuz it best matched its specs when spun up on an old Sun tune up machine. Glad you found your solution.

How old is your fuel pump. Some have an internal debris screen might be plugged. I had a chunk of rust on the inlet fitting. It acted like a ball valve. It would let enough gas to flow to support idle, gentile driving up to 30 to 35, but when flow peaked it would close up and choke the flow, drop back to 30 it was fine. Worth the time to pull the pump and check it over. Also worth doing a vacuum gauge diagnostic before you tackle other stuff. Go to secondchancegarage.com for a good vacuum gauge tutorial. Intake manifold vacuum should give you a reading of 21 inches, and steady needle at 450 to 500 rpm idle.

The only stuff here that had titles was real estate. Until the state realized it could raise revenue by putting titles on all road legal vehicles. At 50 bucks for the title and 25 bucks filing fee every time a vehicle was sold, it's easy money. Now it's on atvs, trailers, boats, rvs, snowmobiles, campers.

I wish folks looking for assistance with vehicle documentation numbers or engine numbers would type out the number. Pictures of engine numbers may look crisp and detailed on your camera, but mostly illegible on laptops or tablets. Casting numbers may be partially blocked by shadow or corrosion. Also it would give us a hint as to whether you are looking for an engine number or serial number when photos aren't attached. Many jurisdictions used different numbers. My friends 51 Plymouth is registered by engine number, mine is by serial number and we both live in the same county but went to different DMV offices. Here in NY, there were no titles for vehicles till 1972 or so. Vehicles were sold on the basis of a transferable registration form. These pre 72 vehicles still do not have titles. Standardized federal Vehicle Identification Number didn't come into use till the mid to late 60s so referring to your old car's number as a VIN is like calling face tissue Kleenex. It works but is technically incorrect. So let us know what number is on your paper work, and please type it out on your post

Late 80s cherokee not grande. 2wd. I'd memory serves.

I think the 4.0 is about 10 inches longer than the flathead.(32 inches fan to bellhousing) Measure a lot before purchasing. Any thing is possible, but heavy mods of firewall and radiator position are probably in the works as well as oil pan sump location. 4.0 are great engines capable of going hundreds of thousands miles and there is big after market stuff as they are still in demand by off readers in western states. But it is a long engine.

Well you have ro remember, rhe original harness was split between 2 circuits. One for the 2 running lights (plus liscence plate lamp) and one for the single central brake li light. When you add signal lights, this adds 2 more single circuits for right and left sockets. The easiest way to address this is to add seperate lights to facilitate just the flashing lamps. I added motorcycle signals to mine mounted to fabricated bracketsattached via a bumper bracket bolt. I did this cuz I can't get my head around how the switch works especially through the brake light switch deal. It's simple for switch to power the lamps through the flasher when just powering the signal, but when the brakes are on is it interrupting the ground to shut the lamp off or is something else going on?

Does the car use a lot of oil? Can you drive 100 miles without adding oil? What product are you planning to use?

Have you done a compression test, have you put a vacuum gauge on your engine? When it is running are there visible fumes coming fr9m the oil filler pipe? The results of a proper compression test procedure would be more indicative of what is causing the smoke. If you don't know how to run this test, visit secondchancegarage.com to see the procedure detailed here. They also have a procedural for using a vacuum gauge to interpret what the g auge is showing. Run those tests, then post your results.

You should be able to find the gasket that goes between the transaction bellhousing this would give you the bolt arrangement and dimensions. The other variable is the input bearing retainer diameter as I believe three different ones were used. My spare trans is stored under a vehicle and not available with snow equipment needing to be moved as well as other items to access it. There are several pictures of the gasket on e bay sites. Maybe you could fiddle with enlarging the pics till you got a correct sized one.

Call the fraud department from your card, they will initiate an investigation and will not honor any further charges.

Bypass the ign switch with a jumper wire from battery negative to coil negative. Alligator clips work for easy shut down. This will help locate the fault. If it starts and runs the problem is in the ign switch or its circuit.

Battery under the floor?

Let us know what happens. My tires are pushing 15 years old.

I believe the specified fluid for the transmission was SAE 10 non detergent motor oil. Not sure but maybe the multi viscosity modern oil might be causing some issues. Finding SAE 10 might be an issue. Try places that deal with old tractors or self powered harvest machines. The earlier reference to universal hydraulic fluid was for the fluid drive unit, not the transmission. This always causes confusion.

What you are dealing with are know as M6 semi automatic transmissions. They are dual range with 2 gears in each range. They are designed to operate in high range for normal driving. Low range being reserved for high load hauling or compromised traction ( snow, mud, loose gravel) situations or when greater compression braking is needed. Most faults are external, corroded wiring terminals, or too high idle rpm. Low fluid can be a cause also. Today most people are finding universal tractor hydraulic fluid is a replacement for for the original fluid. It will work as a top off fluid as it will mix with the original fluid. Go to the Imperal Club website repair section. They have very comprehensive trouble shooting procedures archived there including the factory supplied technician training audio visual program. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/ This forum has a few folks who are well acquainted with these transmissions. Hopefully they will join in this discussion. A secondary source can be found at the Allpar.com website. Search transmissions.

Concur current front end is mopar transverse torsion bar set up. I believe it would have been carried by a bolt on K frame sub member. I believe there are HD police parts for that set up. The regular applications were tuned for comfort over control, the opposite of what the rear looks to be aimed at. As far as engine goes a mild 360 with a sniper fi set would surely be more usable than an over cam'ed, over carbureted stuff usually out there.

Early Dodge Dakota front frame swap will give you modern brakes, steering, suspension, and motor mount flexibility for most mopar v6, v8, not sure about modern hemi. Same wheel lug diameter as ford rear with 5 bolt pattern. I have no idea about the rear suspension except it's way to complicated for average street driving.

https://www.taillightking.com/

Try the tailightking website.

Andy, the village of Neversink was on a creek in a steep vally in the southern region known as the Catskill mountains (Dutch meaning Cats Creek) The area was know for its many streams full of good clear water. The city of New York was growing in population and there was an over demand for water in the city. NYC is at sea level. The Catskill were near 700 feet higher. So a program of daming streams and creating reservoirs, and building aqueducts began to satisfy the demand. Several towns including Neversink were evacuated using eminent domain laws. People and business relocated, the dams were finished, flooding the structures and properties. Interesting history to explore.where supply was created to meet demand, Civil Engineering, Commendation laws, came together to change the lives of people and places 90 miles apart. Even now NYC is building new pipes and tunnels to keep up with still growing need for fresh water. Bob probably had ancestors who were relocated to different homes as a result of these dams and reservoirs. The satellite maps or Google earth can show the area, impoundment and reservoirs.