Jerry Roberts

Do you see water flowing in the top of the radiator at slightly higher RPM s ? Also when you check the lower radiator hose for collapsing , check it at higher RPM s .

Part of this job is to make sure that the air vent on top of the differential isn't plugged up . And be sure to put a little grease on the lip of the new seal so that it doesn't operate dry on the first revolutions .

That doesn't sound right . An upholsterer shouldn't have to remove the dash to install new windlace .

Yes , as Andy says , throw that canister away . You can replace the sealed canister with an identical item if you can find one but they are rare now , so expensive . The canisters with the replaceable elements can be found on ebay , at swap meets , and at the junk yards . You will probably have to change your lines and / or fittings .

If the arc of the shoe has the same arc as the drum , you probably don't want to remove any of the shoe . As mentioned earlier , you can see if the arc is correct by placing the loose shoe in the drum and look for a space between the shoe and the drum . It must be pretty close as you were able to get the drum on .

Darren has it right .

There was one young man racing around an oval dirt track . He seemed to have had a lot of practice , goosing it at a certain point on the corners and spinning the tires some . It looked like he was having fun and he had several onlookers .

If you accidentally drop it or give it a hard jar , you might have to polarize it . But this would be determined after you put it back on the car and started the engine . Not a big deal .

I wonder if your engine doesn't have a good ground because of the new paint . Is the distributor grounding through you instead of the block ?

If I remember correctly , some of the electricity goes to ground through the steel body of the distributor . Make sure that your hold down bolt has a good clean , tight ground . Also the plate that bolts to the distributor body . I know that the condensor does it's job by grounding some of the electricity , and the condensor is grounded to the plate . My engine won't run if the condensor isn't grounded . Edit ; Yes , I see your distributor was loose when you were touching it to adjust the timing .

Vacuum gauges are cheap and easy to use . When your engine is at idle , adjust that screw for the highest , smoothest vacuum . Other than that you can use the vacuum gauge the same way to set the timing . Make sure your points are good too and the gap is correct .

Well I have to disagree with a couple of points mentioned . My truck , a 1941 plymouth has 2.94 gears in the rear and I love it . No riding the clutch or poor performance issues . My rear tires are about 28 inches in diameter . My engine is a 218 . Also dave if you truck acts up going down the highway at speed , something is wrong with your suspension or tires or alignment , I drive 70 MPH on the freeway and all is normal , like steering a normal vehicle .

The lenses that are pre-war are etched and painted , post war they are silk screened .

The last one of these that I had apart , not only was the grease solidified but the armature shaft was locked up on both ends . I had to tap the armature out of the housing and lube .

Rick might be thinking of the gasket that seals around the outer rim . My center bolt has a coper washer but hard plastic or hard rubber would probably work fine . A hardware store would also be a good place to look .

He said that it is in his Willys pickup , but is it mounted in the engine compartment or is it laying in the bed ? Just wondering .

I have to agree with Tod on this one . In the past , many have said that if your generator isn't charging , tighten up your fan belt . I say be very careful that you don't over tighten and make things wear out too soon .

Another option is to cover the inside with that very reflective silver foil tape . It has a backing that you peel off before you stick it in place . I bought a roll at the local hardware store . You kind of patch the foil tape into place as the sides of the light fixture aren't parallel .

I will stick by my response . You should know that if you don't lubricate it , it will wear out real quick .

I am wondering if what you are calling " card board " isn't actually leather ? I have seen some of these seals that use both rubber and leather . If it is leather you should soak it in oil . I would also use a little grease . Better safe than sorry .

One thing to be careful of is there are two common distributor shaft lengths . The 25 inch long block uses a distributor with a shaft that is about 1/4 inch longer than the 23 inch block . Is the 1950 Dodge motor a 25 inch block ? I don't have access to my Motors Manuals right now but sometimes you can find the the distributor models listed for what car they were installed in . In the past I have not been able to find all numbers listed . And yes , you should have a vacuum advance . Some constant speed motors didn't need a vacuum advance .

Looking good Ed . For those who don't know , all of that chrome around the outer edge doesn't show , it is all mounted behind the dash . Only the very center chrome is exposed to view .

Your 318 was designed to work best with a pressurized cooling system ( read hotter ) . The tank on the honey comb radiator if pressurized will ' oil can ' and eventually leak along the seam , from what I have read . Other opinions are welcome .

I might be missing something here , but I don't think that your switch makes a difference as to where your wiper motor parks the wiper blade . The photo of the wiper switch shown has two terminals and it just completes the circut , thats all . Can you reposition the wiper arm so that when the switch is off , the blade is parked ? Then it may have the wrong arc though . It is kind of hokey , but can you turn the switch off when the blade is at a certain position and it will then be stopped in the park position ? edit ; I think the parking feature of your wipers is built into the mechanism of the wiper motor , that would be a very tricky operation to change . The other option would be to rotate the motor , but yours probably doesn't rotate .

To find out what is too loose , jack up the front end to get the weight off the tires . Grab parts and shake them to see where the play is . You might also have too much play in the steering gear box . Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth ( just the free play ) and look underneath to see if the steering arm is moving or if there is a bunch of free play . Also grab a front tire and try to move it up and down , you might find free play in the king pins here .