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woodie49

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About woodie49

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 06/21/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1949 plymouth

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  • Biography
    I have built Chevys all my life, so I know engines (V8). Now I won a Flathead? I am lost.
  • Occupation
    CFO of an on-line game company. I love it!

Converted

  • Location
    Irvine, Ca. and commute a lot to the Central Coast.
  • Interests
    I have collected many things, including antique typewriters, Star Wars, First Edition Books.

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  1. If it looks like I need to go in the direction of trying to match the block and cap faces, This might help me get there. I will first do a little more homework so I understand this. Thank you for your help.
  2. I am using a machine shop in Morro Bay. From my limited understanding, line honing is done by many machine shops and is about $150.00, line boring is done by only a few and is , at least so far, fairly expensive. I need to understand this further and should be in Morro Bay later this week to clarify the processes. I will talk to the two shops mentioned above - thank you guys for your efforts and the referrals - and hopefully have a better sense of where to go with this.
  3. Machine shop here (I am in Central Cal on the Coast) sends them to So. Cal. and it is about $1200.00 for a V8, maybe less for for the L-Head given less mains, but still not cheap. I called a shop in No. Cal. which would be closer to me and they were talking in the area of $1000.00 and about 5 weeks wait. There are only a few shops I can find In Ca. that do actual align boring, but most can do the line honing, apparently a somewhat different process (and assuming I am remembering correctly the alternative process), which is something like $150.00. If my cap surfaces were closer to the block surface, I could do that and that cost seems OK to me. This may be a regional thing with the shops in Ca. being speed shops and focused more on high end builds. I seem to remember doing this years ago and not thinking it was really expensive. But I think we used to blue print a SBC (and this may be part of that process) for around $500, which was a lot of dough at the time. I could be getting completely snowed here except that my experience with the machine shop i used has all been good and reasonable prices. My understanding of what needs to be done is that the caps will be shaved a couple thousandths and then a horizontal shaft with a cutter is centered on the first cap and block pair and it advances through the length block to cut each pair exactly in line and to proper size. If anyone has had this done recently, I would appreciate some cost info. If there is another alternative, I would appreciate feedback on that. I have thought to bolt in the crank and test the bearing clearance with plastiguage to see if it runs different cap to cap, maybe take two readings on each bearing set, but I wonder if this would work or if i could expect an issue to develope over time.
  4. I am beginning a rebuild of a P18 block I have had for a number of years. I had to source the main caps separately as they were not with the block. The block had been worked some years back before I bought it and the cylinders mic out good, but my machine shop guy tells me that I need to have the block and caps line bored (which he doesn't do - it seems like there aren't many places in Ca. that do), and it is expensive enough to make me wonder if it is worth working with this block. He says there is an alternative (maybe it was line honing?) which can be done provided the forward facing edges on the caps and the block line up almost perfectly, otherwise the boring bit gets caught up on the leading edge of the cap and the process won't work. My center caps are each about .010 proud of the block. Can these be ground a bit to take up the difference? Should I try to source another set of caps hoping to get this measure closer? I assume the caps are all the same width. Is there an acceptable alternative to line boring that is more affordable. Has anyone had this done lately and knows what it should cost?
  5. I am completing the brake bleeder project Don posted on this site a while back, but I need to locate a master cylinder cap for that fits my master cylander. It is original to my '49. NAPA seems to have no part number for it (not surprising). Is there a part number for an availabe replacement or newer cap that works?
  6. I had a small electrical mishap today after doing some work on the engine compartment. I moved my OD cable against some wires and forgot to move it back before firing up. I saw smoke right away and shut down and disconnected the battery. One of the three wires going from the positive side of the coil had shorted against the OD cable. Of course, it affected all three wires as they got hot. I pulled the wiring holder apart and inspected them. Two of the wires have some insulation burnt off (I think they could safely just be wrapped in electric tape), and one, which goes to the ignition switch has actually burnt a coupe strands of wiring. Because of the harnesses, I would like to cut these and splice in new same guage wire. I am not sure if i can use a wireless connector for this or if I should use a soldered connector with a sleeve to insulate. It looks clear that no other wires in the harness are affected. I have also considered cutting them at both ends and rewiring around the harness. The wires go to the ignition side of the horn relay, the flasher and directly to the ignition switch through a kind of long cable that starts at the fire wall. This one looks a little hard to access at the switch end. The wires in question are probably original and the old cloth-type. This is the first wiring related issue I have had, with the wiring generally looking very good on the car. I think I would prefer to splice them with new rubber insulated wire since the area of damage is apparent and I know what caused it. Is there any reason that splicing these wires should be a problem?
  7. I just got a rebuild kit from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. The pin has c clamps to hold it in place. The instructuons say to dip the diaphram in kerosene to soften it up. Around here I don't find kerosine any more. what is a suitable substitute?
  8. That is what I installed as well. But, as i mentioned, the clearance between the engine and the crank is very minimal and it takes a lot of patience to get the three bolts into the block with the seal and the gasket in place. I had to grind the heads of the bolts a bit to get enough clearance to line them up and had to put the seal, gasket and bolts all in as a unit, just not enough clearance any other way on my block. Hope yours is a bit easier.
  9. The electric 6V works great and had no trouble moving gas through the system at freeway speeds. It is a good backup. I don't think the L-heads are really any worse on fuel pumps, but i think the rebuilds that don't stake the pin are a problem.
  10. My neoprene rubber seal replacement was part of a plate that lined up with the three holes behind the crank that you are talking about - the ones with very little clearance between the block and the crank. The rope seal that I saw is just a rope seal, the only version of the rubber seal that I have seen for replacement is a seal mounted to the plate that lines up with the three holes, and a gasket goes between the plate and the block as well. The bottom part of the seal is the same, with the same kind of plate that bolts to the rear main cap. If you go back to my thread, I included pictures of the seal and others contributed to which is correct for which block. I do have another 218 block for eventual rebuilding. The old rope seal is on it, and it also is mounted to the plate that lines up with the three holes in the block. Don posted some pictures from the manual that were quite helpful in understanding the differences. The seal originally in my car was a rubber seal that road in the last grove in the block (without the plate) and corresponding groove in the main cap. It came out pretty easily, but also leaked pretty bad. I have not seen a replacement in this configuration, but they must be out there.
  11. Jeff, I used to live in Irvine and I am there about every third week. In fact, it was Robert Escalante at Custom Auto in Santa Ana, who services my Packard (and most everyone else's) and is a good friend of mine who waited well after hours at his shop to give me an electric pump to have installed. Had I been able to reach him earlier, I owuld have gone there even though I was not driving a Packard. What is your shop and do you work on a lot of flatties? I can use a good contact down here (I am in Irvine tonight). I have brought the Woodie back and forth between Irvine and Cambria with no problems until now. Bad timing.
  12. I have a complete pumpo rebuild. It must be older (or maybe not a rebuilt) as the pin that came out in mine is more like a copper rivit. Not sure how i will get it out, but i assume I will just drill it out. The pump I used is designed to be run direct without a regulator, it only puts out about 6 lbs. No problems at idle with the carb.
  13. After putting in the overdrive and running on a borrowed solenoid, we left Cambria at 6AM to put us behind the LA traffic last Friday and it was a nice trip. The car runs great and the overdrive makes a world of difference. We stopped in Irvine (about 20 miles north of the Woodie show) for lunch and, before we got back on the freeway, the car broke down. It turned out to be a the fuel pump. The pin holding the arm that drives off the cam popped out and that was the end of our fuel pressure. When we pulled the pump at a gas station where the machanic was pretty cool and let me help him, it became obvious what happened. The pump came out, the arm and spring were left inside the engine. Fortunately, we were able to fish them out with a magnet from the drain plug. The arm was quite bent as I guess it had a few strokes with the pin only partly installed. No way to source a pump in time, so the Woodie stayed at a gas station and we rented a car to get to the hotel. In the meanwhile I ran around and got a 6V electric pump and all the peices to install and left them in the car for the mechanic. We ended up getting to the hotel about 9:30PM. Next morning, I called the meachanic (they are called "technicians" now!) explained where and how ro install it to him (reminded him my car is positive ground, which he kept telling me was not right) and we were off back to Irvine. Car was finished mid-day and we went back to Doheney in time for the closing dinner and party. So, not a total loss. Weather was cold and crummy, not ideal for a woodie show anyway. It rained on th way home. Also not ideal. No problems with the electric pump, but I plan to rebuild another one i have and run it with the electric behind it, turned off, as a backup. That is the set-up on my Packard, and I wish I had done it earlier on the Woodie. Car ran great wthile it was running and it is really a pleasure to drive with the newly installed Overdrive. so we drove 6 hours each way to and from Dana Point to spend 4 hours in a gas station and work on the car. Good party though. Easy come, easy go!
  14. I recently replaced my rear main seal and so far I have no leaks. I did not have to pull the bell housing, but the flywheel definately needs to come off. I used the neoprene type "best" gasket for replacement. In my case, there was a real issue getting the top three bolts into the block with the seal and liner in place. Originally, there was a rope type seal used, but that was incorrect for my block. The clearance between the crank and the block is very minimal and I used #5 type bolts, that i think were 3/4 (maybe even just 1/2) long and I needed to grind the heads down some to get enough clearance to install them. It was tougher with the seal in place. Took probably 20 minutes to get the top bolt in and threaded because you are working blind and with no room. The other two were faster, but not a while bunch. bring a can of patience with you. The upside is that the seal is replaced and appears to not be leaking at the moment. I just drove about 800 miles, so i think it would be leaking by now if it was going to. The thread for the job is pretty recent here on the forum. Good luck.
  15. Now that you ask the question, I think I did change one of the shifter arms when I swapped the trans. They actually looked alike to me, but I think the original OD one had a clearance issue. This one does not. Maybe the configuration is slightly different.
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