Jerry Roberts

Your amp gauge will work fine on 12 volt . You have an old car too , doesn't it have a mechanical temperature gauge ?

Paul , I am sure that you can find a place to wire your signal-stat so that it only gets power when your ignition switch is on . That way your battery can't go dead . If you have tried your flasher with a beep on the road , let us know if it is loud enough . I have hearing problems too .

Same with my engine , only the machinist used a freeze plug .

I heard that you can use a narrow belt on a wide pulley , but I haven't tried it .

It can be sleeved .

I have heard that some machine or welding shops will build up the ball and make it round again . Other shops don't want to take the chance with the liability . Probably make a few local phone calls to ask . Or if you have the part loose in hand , bring it in .

I think you meant to say 5/16 "

I don't know if it will help with your problem but I ran a ground wire directly from the bulb connection to the frame on my truck . I didn't like the factory grounding method .

Does your Signal Stat also have the two very small green lights that are for turn indicators ? If so , the large red light shouldn't be coming on at all when you are using your turn signals . If you have the two little green lights , then the large red light is only for your hazard indicator . If everything is working well it might be better to leave it alone .

Whatever you decide to do , let Roberts know so that he is aware of the problem . Send him the photo . Perhaps the problem will be corrected for the next guy .

I have bought suspension parts from Rare Parts in stockton as I live in Stockton Ca . Very good people to work with . I paid the same price as if I had ordered from from out of town as their price was a little high but I didn't have to pay shipping . They advertise that if they don't have the suspension part , they will make it .

Your freeze plugs won't pop out unless they are weak . I am running a radiator from a car that had a slant 6 engine . I use a 13 pound cap and leave lots of air in the top tank for expansion . It has been good for several years now . I also had the radiator modified from 3 rows to 4 rows . Edit ; I also run a 160 degree thermostat and 160 is usually what it runs at .

Yes , time to replace the pump . There are NEW water pumps out there , probably even cheaper than having your old pump rebuilt .

Ya , The rustic look with wooden shingles , it would go with the truck patina . Put a pair of antlers over the door .

I had my tank done by RENU 12 years ago and no problems yet . Today I could by a new tank at $250 including shipping but that wasn't available back then . I probably paid $250 for their services . So ask what they charge before you decide .

I have also seen the same dome light in large earlier Dodge flat bed trucks perhaps 1937 - 1938 . If that backing that holds the glass is too rusted , let me know as I might have that too . When installing the dome light you will need four spacers on the corners about 1/8 " thick , this holds the housing away from the headliner so that the bezel has room to snap in place . The original spacers were leather and had the shape of flat faucet washers . If you happen to drill a hole in your ABS headliner in the wrong spot , Use a hole punch in a scrap of material to make a round plug for a patch . I think the later years of the 1939 - 1947 trucks had the internal switch , they all used the same glass though . There has been a lens and chrome bezel on ebay recently but I think the guy wanted too much $ . If you post your photo on the Pilot House side someone might have it in chrome .

Ed , Those came in either chrome or painted . It seems that the same part also came in some of the Pilot House trucks . I have one in black paint that you can have . The chrome does look better though , and chrome will match your switch . How is your glass ? I have an extra glass lens too . I had the black one in my truck and switched to chrome .

I bought an impact driver at Harbor Freight several years ago and used it several times , so it did pay for itself . The 'snap ring' that holds the bit in broke and I had to put the bit back in place after every hammer blow . I found an old American made impact driver at the flea market for just a couple dollars and have used it a couple of times now . I like the new-old American one .

The only problem is that the light might be too dim . Thats it .

In an earlier thread someone had built a pre-lube tank from a garden sprayer . Pump it up connected to one of the plugs in the oil galley . Perhaps it was Blueskies .

So tell us how the problem was solved .

When the flywheel is resurfaced , the whole surface is machined down , not just the area where the clutch disk touches . That means that the surface where the pressure plate bolts up has been cut down too and everything bolts up the same . So I don't think that could be your problem .

Is the right hand mirror arm suposed to be longer than the left hand arm ? In regs post (#3) above it sure looks that way . My truck is older and uses different arms , but my right is longer than the left , if my right arm wasn't longer , my window frame would be in the way of the view .

It seems to me like you could get answers to the dimensions from vendors by sending them a photo and measurements .

On my 1941 truck , new hinge pins were too loose . I ended up using hard bolts that had a smooth shank where they touched the hinges and put a nut on the ends . I had to drill out the hinges to the size of the bolts . I don't remember if I drilled to 5/16 or 3/8 . My hinges each have two little holes for oiling . Also when I tightened my hinge bolts down , I was careful to see that things were rotating correctly , as the rotation was on the meaty portion of the hinges and not the thinner top and bottom .