Jerry Roberts

You probably have a loose / ticking lifter . To find the offending lifter , slide your feeler gauge into each gap until your hear the noise go away .

Antifreeze should be mixed 50% to 50% with water for better cooling . Some of the antifreeze comes pre mixed . But perhaps you got the results that you want .

Dashboards should be interesting to look at , for example I have always liked the 1948 Plymouth Special Delux dashes . Here is a photo of the dash on my 1941 Plymouth truck . I have never claimed to be normal .

Other normal pipe threads require a sealer or they leak . This one is a pipe thread too , 1/8 inch pipe .

Um , better make that 153624 .

Your distributor is for a 1941 Plymouth . Cam angle 35 - 38 , point gap .020 , Condenser capacity mfd's .25 - .28 , breaker arm tension ounces 17 - 20 . This info is from a 1954 Motor's Auto Repair Manual . Do you want info on your mechanical and vacuum advance too ?

In Don C.'s post number 9 , the photo shows AC in a 6 volt car .

160 degrees for me . I also have the air vents on the sides of the hood , and a very large , thick , new radiator .

There is a wire in the distributor that often causes this problem . This is a finely braded wire that must move every time you use the throttle . If it is broken on the inside or grounding out where it shouldn't , then you will have this problem . I think that Plymouthy referred to this wire .

If you don't have an impact wrench , you can hit the wrench with a hammer .

I see that you haven't received any response yet so I will put in my 2 cents . I have noticed that the relays that have been listed for sale are usually listed as either horn or headlight relays . I recently bought one on ebay for my 6 volt headlights . It is a Delco Remy part number 1116789 . I am comfortable with an American made relay . Mine came without a wiring diagram and I sorted that out . If you need help with wire connections , I can help . I hooked it up before the dimmer switch so I could use only one relay . Some people use two relays and so opinions will vary .

After the process the rust will be gone , but you will now need to wire brush the metal clean .

I have used baking soda several times for this . it might be a slower process than the washing soda , but it did work well .

Does your generator have two places for oiling the bearings , front and rear . Are they oiled ?

Hello , your photo comes through blurred to me . I guess that you are saying that the brass fitting threads are stripped as they enter the block . If the fitting is just spinning and not coming out , you need to somehow put a lever or pry bar in back of the fitting as you unscrew it . Either that or use a vise grips to pull it away from the block as you unscrew it .

Dave , What I would try first is a sharp probe or screwdriver to see if there is some build up in the hole . You might also remove the gland nut to get at any build up easier . I have had both the longer bulb and the shorter bulb in my cylinder head and they have both worked fine . There is usually some build up around a bulb that has been installed for a while , so perhaps you have some build up farther back in the hole . Then again , you might just have a VERY long bulb of either like used on some tractors . If you can measure your bulb of ether , I can tell you if I have used one as long .

Nice neat and clean work area , lots of room too . That makes the project more enjoyable .

Does your ignition key fit into the locks on the doors and the trunk ? If so , you can probably change the pins in those locks .

The brass washers in the photo have a tapered hole in them to ' pinch ' the slotted nuts and hold them tight . They work like lock nuts . If you need more fasteners like this , they are sold by Vintage Power Wagons .

350 in a Camaro subframe in his photos from last year .

Do you need to do a tune up ? Points , condensor , spark plugs , rotor , distributor cap . If it is all fairly new , check the point gap .

Probably . As Merle said above , the wires on the amp meter might have been on the wrong terminals for negative ground , that would have made the amp meter read backwards . I run my truck with negative ground and it was positive ground when new .

I could have bought a made - to - fit radiator for my 1941 plymouth truck from Summit Racing for $776 . Instead I bought an aluminum universal fit on ebay , item number 350831437558 from autocity1958 . They are asking $199 OBO with free shipping . I am running a zero pressure system with an overflow tank from a 1960 ' s Corvet . The overflow tank is vented to the atmosphere . The overflow tank must be mounted higher than the top of the radiator . Is the overflow tank really needed ? ...perhaps not but it gives me peace of mind , the top tank of the radiator is not very large . I like the NO pressure system a lot . My truck runs at 160 degrees . Of course I had to spend some time looking through hoses at the local parts store to find something that would work , and devise my own mounting brackets .

Nice looking truck . I like the pitched roofs on the homes in the photos . On a flat roof , one little hole the diameter of a pencil can cause a lot of water damage .