desoto1939

Ok the correct stater motor for the 1946-48 Desoto is an Autolite MAw-4025 and according to my Autolite Stater controls printout the correct Selinoid Switch is an Autiolite SS-4707 not the 4705 this was used in 1942 on fluid drive. The SS-4707 was used from 1946-thru 1950 and also used on starter MCH-6102 and MAW 4055. I have the autolite document that shows the details and the settings for adjustements. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

You might be correct but why do the mechanics still use the air gun to over tighten the lug nuts on our modern cars? This is because they are lazy and it would require them to use the proper tool or color coded attachment on their air guns to set the proper torque. When you go to Costco for tires the mechanic uses the gun to remove the lug nuts or bolts but their policy is to use a torque wrench set with the proper torque to hand tighten the nuts and then when done the supervisor then rechecks each wheel before they deliver the car back to you. can you tell me if and when you have ever seen this done at any other shop. They always over tighten the nuts and then you have to go back to have them loosened and then hand tighten properly. So time is money in the auto repair business so most mechanics will not taken the time to look at the L or r on the stud or bolt. My point is that on a truck as you state they have been trained for Left threaded bolts but not on the cars becasue we have not used them in 50+ years, so take the time to tell the mechanic and tell them about your car it only takes a minute and if it is any good quality shop they will welcome the information. Also suggest that you stand by the garage door when they are removing the wheel and tell them again about L/R wheel lugs nuts/bolts. I am not rying to argue the point of L/R being used today but it is still your responsibility as the owner of the car to let them know about the difference becsue this is not standard on our modern cars. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

No matter how much you paint the flange of the hub Red, orange and any other color it willnot mean anything to one of the modern mechanics of todays training. They have not been taught and will not be taught that there are left hand lug bolts and or nuts on cars. This is not the normal and we can not expect them to know this information. Even if you had a flashing neon sign infront of them prior to taking off the hub cap they still will set their air gun up for right hand threads. it is your responsibility to remind the mechanic 20 times that the left side has left had threads both front and rear becasue only you know the specific about your car. They are trained to work on modern cars and not antiques that are 50+ years old. This is old technology and they have not been exposed to it. Just my 25 cents worthof input. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

when I was Ebay the other day i saw a listing for the crush ferrel that you are talking about and i think Mike W is the person that is selling these for the gas lines. go an find one of his listing undr vintagexxxx and then send him a message. Could you have take the tank to a good gas tank repair and have then soder in a fitting that has a flared end and then make a short piece so that you can use a flared fitting which is more accessable at any good parts house. So cut you line put in a double flare fitting and then add the new section with a double flair witht he appropriate flared nut and you have solved the entire issue. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

it does not matter if the lugs or bolts are stamped left or right. Most of the mechanics that we have are at best 20 years and they have never been taught that at one point intime there were left and right hand threaded studs or lug bolts so there is no reason for them to look at the stud or nut for the left indicator. These cars are not what they grew up with just like 6 volt positive ground. everything now is 12 volt neg graound. So As the owner it is your job to reminder them of the key point about your car and NOT ASSUME,AXX, that they the odd ball issues with your car. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Hey Don you might be right about the pilot bushing diameter. The numbers that I gave him was for the splines onthe clutch plate hole and splines. Rich hartung

looked in one of my carb books and the 1949-54 Plymouth with standard trans used the D6H1-2 car. So if you can find any carb listed that fits this range the parts should fit. Hope this helps you solve your issue. Rich Hartung

the correct carter b&b carb for 1949-50 Plymouth is a D6H1 carb so in you search look for this carb at any swap meets and the part that you are looking for should fit. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

when you say electric choke i assume you are talking about what is called a Sisson choke that is mounted on the top of the intake manifold. This is a choke tht is controled by an electric wire that then makes the bimetal plate move according to the temperature of the manifold. Since you have a plymouth the choke body would be directly in front of the carb when looking from the radiator to the back of the engine bay. You will need a carb that has the same choke mechanism to move the butterfly when the choke is engaged. I would think that any Ball and Ball carb throttle base should work and bolt up directly to your old carb. go to some swap meets if any around and look for some old Ball and Ball carb. they should be cheap and or take your bottom piece with you to match the base. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

If you can get a 1 inch with ten splies plastic clutch tool at a napa store then this will align the clutch place becasue you have a 1 inch hole with 10 splines on the clutch plate. Rich Hartung desoto1939 I have this toolc360, but the plastic tool will work just fine.

So on the car I am assuming that there was not any rear upper attachment stud coming out of the frame? On my 39 Desoto there isa long rod that is bolted directly to the frame and this is the upper mount for the shock. Check to see if there is a long rod that has a threaded end to mount the upper hole for the shock. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a 588 stock mechanical fuel pump on my 39 Desoto that has the glass bowel on the bottom of the FP. I also use an electric pump just to prime the carb after the car has sat a long time. I do not runt he electric pump to feed the car when running down the road only use the mechanical pump and have no issues. This ump has been on the car for 10+ years. When you state that the pump did not pump enough how much volume were you getting? The electric fuel pumps are not very expensive and I use an Airtex pump that I think cost me around $40. I see the mechanical pumps going for 90+ dollars on the Ebay. Have you ever replace the breaker plate assembly with a NOS unit the performance might be this becasue the breaker plate wear as they get older. I do not think the issue is with the mechanical pump. Please provide more input so we can try to diagnose the issue. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ok so lets qualify your 1st place trophy. This was a local AACA affiliated club that held a local show. You won a 1st place at their show but the show was probably not a sanctioned AACA national car show. To host a nataioanl event there has has to be a lot of planning and national judges at the show with AACA forms being used to judge the cars. So from what I can tell you received a 1st place award but did you ever get an AACA national first brass oval with the year on the edge of the brass oval plack? These are only awarded at NAtional events and not local events, But congradulation on getting a 1st place award but this is not an AACA Senior NAtional Award so be careful on how you present the award ecsue you could mislead a potentail buyer of your car. Just trying to provide information about the award. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

if i remember correctly there is a lobe onthe crankshaft the crankshaft rotates and makes contct witht he arm on the fuel pump and this creates the pumping action to draw fuel up from the fuel tank so when looking at your engine from the fron the fan is rotating in a counter clock wise manner not clockwise so the lobe on the cam is actually coming top down on the lever not bottom up so the pushing downward creates the pumping action. rich Hartung

Let me explain the AACA juding process: First you must be a member of the AACA to show at one of the major regiaonl Shows such as Hershey inthe fall. You are placed in a year period clasification such as 1938-39 Class 20E which my 39 Desoto would be intaht class with allmakes and models. So you have just done a full 100percent ground up resotation. This is you first AACA car show. The best that you can win is a First Junior not a Senior. As getting your first Junior then at the next national event then you can go up against the big biys to qualify for a 1st Senior tropy and brass tag. There specific number of points that you need to meet to qualify for each class and there is a 15 point spread. So here is an example. the points that I am listing is not the official point spread but an example to understand the AACA judging, Senior 1 st must score between 375 with a 15 point spred so the lowest score would be a car with 360 points out of 400. the 15 point spread downward. But here is the caveat. If a car in you classification scores 395 which is the highest in your group then the 15 point downard spread is a car that has a score of 380 but if you had 379 you would not be awarded a senior award even though the car was in the initial spread. The highest scoring car in your class set the benchmark and then you go down the 15 points spread. After you have been a Senior 1 winner then you can compete at the Grand National Level and the point spread is even tighter. The judges are made up of a team with the Senior judge assigned to ask question of the owner. You as the owner are present when the car is judges. it is your reposibility to provide proof of any feature that might be on the car. Also note that a car with a lot of options installed can hurt you becasue there is more room to find deductions versus a p[lain Jane car becasue of the lack of options and point deductions. The judges can not sit in your car they can open the door to look inside then can only get down on one knee to look at the under carraige and can not crawl under the car.. So if you won an HPOF award then you must stay in this class to be judged against to get preservation awards. If you dedcide to go for a 1,2,3 Junior then you have to return the HPOF bade back to AACA headquater and then you start the whole process over again. So you have a 1st Senior awarded car done in 2010. You sell the car to a new owner officially then the Senior badge needs to be returned back to AACA and you as the new owner then have to restart the judging process as the new owner and requalify throught the normal process. Hope this helps you understand the basics of AACA judging. If you are going to go throught AACa point judging then get a copy of their judging manaul to fully understand the entire process. This is justa quick overview of AACA judging. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

your car was judged to be Historical Presevation of Original Features. Baiscally the car is unrestored.. So the question is did you enter it in this class at the show or did they just put you in this class. You will recieve a brass badge to put on the car. And yes you can now only have the car judged as an HPOF car and must stay in that class. If you decided to resote the car then you wil lhave to give the badge back to the AACA. This is a newer class that they want to have cars that are as original as possible at car shows to show what the cars looked like instead of being fully resoted. My 39 desoto is an HPOF badged car. welcome to the class and now just enjoy the car and drive it. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a 39 Desoto and it has all right hand threaded bolts. The use of right hand threads is correct. Mother MoPAr switched to left and right in the later 40's. So i would say that you have the correct drums. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Autolite stater solenoid.pdf Attached is a listing of the correct stater solenoid that were used on Chrysler Desoto Hope this helps yopu find the correct part. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

are you sure it is the starter and maybe not the selinoid on top of the starter housing. Also are you a member of the National desoto Club. i would suggest that you become a member becasue now you are able to get you needs to the 1946-48 club members and someone might have one to sell. I am a member with a 39 desoto. I have alot of autolite information and also an autolite catalog on CD if you want the information. rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I looked in my AC speedometer casing catalog and here is the information that I have on file from 1934-1947 Ply speedometer cables.pdf Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Ply speedometer cables p2.pdf

If you have the drop in stylee filter then i use a napa 1010 gold filter inmy 39 Desoto. Take out the old filter and measure the height and diameter and then go on the NAPA webpage and find one to fit. Yes the older prewar car did have hardened value seats. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

glad you solved the issue and now you can get back driving the car. Rich

please provide more information. Do you have the new filter installed in the canister? Take the cansiter out and theh try to put the top back on and thread down the top bolt. If this works then mabe the filter is to tall for the unit. We all need more info regarding you issue. The filter should sit below the top rim of the canister metal body Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I think it might be around 46 but not sure on this question. I am glad that youunderstood the point that I was trying to make. If the engine is getting a total rebuild then pull the stud and then use the bolt sytle. My concern is that when tryign to remove the old stud even with a stud remover there isa good possibility that in my case it would breakoff in the engine block. Just passing on knowledge. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com