desoto1939

This is rich hartung with a 39 desoto contact me at desoto1939@aol.com also sent you a private message. Rich

glad to see that you are learning about your car and how things work onthe car. Keep us posted on the fuel issue. I might also suggest that you read up on the new stabilizer product call 360. It is a great product to use in our older cars that have metal gas tanks. When the 360 product is put into the tank it then creates a vapor that coats the upper metal of the tank to help prevent rusting becasue of the enthinol and also helps to keep the fuel lines and carb clean. The 360 product can be purchased at Walmart and they seem to have the cheapest price. I use it in my 39 desoto and also in my modern cars. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

In our club a person had the cutoff switch mounted on the floor of his 1936 plymouth and then one day while on tour the engine stop running and he could not get the car started. Because the cutoff switch was on the floor his foot hit the switch by accident when moving his feet around and he turned off the power from the battery. So make sure if you mount on the floor board that you will not hit the switch with your foot. for better battery life you should also think about keeping a trickle charge on the battery. This keeps the battery yup to par and then also prolongs the life of the battery. Having a bettery sit and then only getting charged when the engine is runn causes the plates to slowly loose the metal and then the battery discharges. This has been discussed at the AACA annual meeting in Philadelphia and by keeping it charged you should get 6+ years out of a battery and maybe even more. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The sission choke was an option onthe 39 Plymouth but was used on the 39 and up Chrysler, dodge and Desoto's. In the picture of the D6H2 the hole that is showing on the linkage was used for the rod that came off the sisson choke lever to acuate the choke butterfly in the carb. So does you car have two small studs on the manifold on a flat spot just behind the caburator. If the manifold has this then this is where the sisson choke would have been mounted with a gasket. There also would have been a wire that connected to the starter selinoid that ran to the choke. The electric choke was energised from the starter contact wire. Below is a picture of the sisson choke installed in my 39 desoto Note the location of the choke and the electric wire and the metal rod to operate the choke buttefly Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here isa picture of a D6H2 carb taken from Ebay.

why are some member being very critical of the gentleman that is having the issue? I give him credit for asking the questions and also great credit for trying to learn about his car and the electrical system. Yes the forum has a great amount of season veteran antique car owners that have a great deal of knowledged. But least remember that YOU All did not know it all when you were first starting out in this hobby. We allhave to learn at some point in time. Yes the owner could have taken it to a mechanic and the mechanic would have found the issue and fixed the car, But would the mechanic have explained what he did and transfered his knowledge to this owner, I think probably NOT. So now the owner has some kinowledge and can keephis car running incase it has a breakdown on the road. I must say that there are members on this forum that also ask alot of questions also, so why is not that you do not put down these members and also discourage a new member from restoring or keeping a good old MoPar running but maybe we should chase him away to the Chevy and Ford guys. I was a teacher and the parting of knowledge is what all of us need to do to help each other. May be someone with another antique car will be stuck on the raod and this owner just might stop by the car that is stuck onthe raod be it any other make of car and gets the guy back onthe road. This is what the hobby is all about helping and not putting people down for their questions. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

the first question who have you tried to locate the drum from such as bernbaums roberts and or any other vendors or even ebay. so let us know what you have done upto this point. Do not just ask for leads but tell us what you have don eto find any drums. I am not trying to be mean to you but we need more input to help you. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Had similar experience over the winter time with the master cylinder on my 39 desoto. Found out that after 30 years since I rebuilt the MC the check valve had a very small hole in the rubber gasket and this was my issue. rebuilt the unit and now had great brakes again. The slightest thing can cause an issue in the MC. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

For turn signal and brake light you need a double filment bulb possibly 1158 6v. I prefer the 7 wire system turn signal SignalStat system. can be purchased ata NAPA store or ordered in for you and also a 6v turn signal flasher. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

If the engine on the 23 inch block is not moved back far enought then you would also have an issue with the driveshaft becasue the smaller engine if not positioned correctly would not sit back far enought to connect the driveshaft at the tailend of the trans and emergency brake band. What is the cost of the small engine and then think of the modifications cost. Get a price to rebuild the 25inch block and see how much difference in cost. it would be better to put the correct engine in the car. Spend the money wisely do it once and then you will have a great engine in a great car. Rich HArtung 1939 Desoto owner with a 25 inch block desoto1939@aol.com

according to one of my rate books the 1949-50Plymouth convertible wiper motor was part number 1257581 rich hartung

Ok thanks for th einput info: partnumber 1503408 first line no information found in my catalog line two part# 581498 46-54 1/2 ton trucks to 2 ton trucks federal Number D-1087 and this is the clutch release with bearing attached line Part # 581499 is the bearing only and the federal bearing number is 1087 line 4 no information D-1087 Federal Clutch Bearing assemblies Dodge trucks 1/2 to 1 1/2 ton 1939-40 All models 1941-47 1/2 to 2 ton 1948-54 Bearing measurement 1087 Bore 2.062, overall diameter 3.562, width .750, type thrust and sealed complete assemblies D-1087 description Iron Adapter sleeve number 1057 Hope this get you the correct Clutch throwout assembly Rich Hartung

I can not read the Mopar Number becasue of the way the manual is rolled if you provide the throwout bearing mopar number I might beable to help. rich

I have a federal Clutch release bearing catalog I can not find a dodge model c1b I do have a a dodge truck 1954-46 all 1/2 toon to 2 ton listing. it show the Mopar factory part number as 581498 with the federal number being D-1087 which is the the holders with the bearing attached. Bearing only is 581499 and the federal bearing number is 1087 Can you find any part number in your parts book for your truck this might help me identify the correct clutch throwout release and bearing assembly. The catalog also has a cross ref section so I might be able to identify other manufactureres if you can supply me with the appropriate Dodge or Mopar number from your parts book Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

49 dodge autolite horn rely is HRL-4104 for d29,d30 49 D30,d31,d32 canada HRL-4103 or HRL-4104 echlin Hr-109 sorensen Hr-4 fits 1949-55 Chrylser dodge desoto plymouth Hope this helps. Rich Hartung

well we all know is is a double flared line and someone has prebent the line. Does not look long enought for a fuel line from the FP to the carb, How about a brake line at the rear of the pumpkin to a backing plate maybe a vaccum advance line. So are you missing a line some where on the car? Rich Hartung

replace it with the correct hose for $15. If the hose breaks then you will have engine oil all over the inside of your engine. 15$ is not mush to spend when you have an antique car. also suggest that you get two adn the shipping will be the same and have one as a spare. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I think that trying to cut two holes for a total of four into the very outer edge of the backing plate is going to be very hard to do becasue the holes have to be so far out so that you are almost on the entire outer edge of the backing plate to get the feeler gage into the slots and then you would have to have the car up on a lift to beable to set the shoes. The dummy drum was used by alot of old time mechanic and should get you very close to a good brake, After doing a brake ajustment with the ammco brake gage 1750 which I have several of them and also the factory Miller MT19 tool you still need to perform a minor adjust by using the upper half moon adjuster not the eccentric adjuster to get the final setting of the shoes. Also remember that you need to depress the brake pedal after setting each indidual wheel this feels with getting the shoes set properly for each wheel. This is how I was taught to do this by an old time mechanic. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I would also suggest that instead of using the old style channel tape use the more modern silicone black caulking that the windshelds repair guys use. This will seal the opening and also permit you to position the glass inthe channel perfectly and then if you ever have to remove the window again you can heat us the silicone with a heating gun to soften the silicone. If the car is a driver then use the silicone if the car is a Show car and being judged then use the old cloth rubberized tape. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Sounds as if might have found the issue and I hope you get the results with a great volume of gas going to the carb. Rich Hartung

You stated that you installed the carter P4259 electric FP and still no fuel to the carb. So disconnect the mechanical FP and connect a hose to the fuel line at the front on the engine where the fuel line comes out then run the hose into a container tos ee if you get any fuel when cranking the car over. Also assuming that you have a working electric FP then you should get fuel to pump out the line into the container. If no fuel come out or only a small amount then there is something in the line or something wrong in the routing with the double lines that you have shown. The electric FP should pump at 3-5 LBS and you should have a steady flow of gas. I still think you might have a air leak or a clogged line. The electric fp should do the job keep looking you will find the issue. Also check the inline fuel filtr make sure that they are installed correctly and that the output side is facing to the carb and that they are not install backwards. Rich Hartung

Greg G, I would be worried about the antirusting agents might have wornout since you have driven the car 45000 miles and only changed the AF twice. The old green Af was good for several years. Look in the radiator opening and check to see if the Af IS A RUST COLOR OR TURNING BROWNISH INSTEAD OF THE BRIGHT GREEN. iF TURING BROWN THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE af TO KEEP THE ANTIRUSTING AGENT UP TO PAR. bELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF THE af TURING BROWN. rICH HARTUNG

The tool is good for adjusting the brake linings but remember the fact that the tool in the picture is probably set to the eact meaurement of say 10 or 11 or 12 depending on your particular car. If you drums have been turn or cut as we say then the internal diameter of you original drums will have a larger diameter than you tool. You will be close enought ot get a good setting and then might have to do a minor adjustment with the upper half moon cam. can be done and I think with good results. Rich Hartung

Tom I referred to the old original GREEN AF that we all used back in the 50-60's. This is stillavialble at all stores. You might have to look to find it becasue most modern cars are now using the extended style yellow or orange color AF. The original green can come in any color bottle it doesnot matter beacuse each manufacturer has different bottle colors. every year i install pint of radiator rust inhibutor and water pump lubricate in the radiator. It is made by GUNK. This helps keep the antirusting agents active. AF has a long active life in the engine but the antirusting agents are what breaks down and then this causes the af to turn brown from the rust and then you welch plugs or freeze out plugs start to rust and then leak. The cost is arounf $4.00 for a pint bottle and i feel that it is worth the extra protection for the block and waterpump. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com